Jimbouk Posted June 18, 2017 Share Posted June 18, 2017 Just wondering what the normal protocol is for who cuts the holes in the plasterboard? We have fixed all the back boxes in and wired, plasters want to board and skim over everything, then electricians find and cut the holes, obviously the electricians vice versa... What is the norm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted June 18, 2017 Share Posted June 18, 2017 We did it the other way, partly because I'm the Plasterer (tape and fill) but also because I agreed with the logic that if there and shaggy issues when the electrics go live its going to be much easier to drop a few boards. Electrics going live this week hopefully then I start taping and filling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Alphonsox Posted June 18, 2017 Share Posted June 18, 2017 In our case the back boxes protrude through the plasterboard so it would be impossible to fit the board without cutting holes for the boxes. This was done by the plasterers. I had assumed this was the standard method. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 18, 2017 Share Posted June 18, 2017 28 minutes ago, jamiehamy said: We did it the other way, partly because I'm the Plasterer (tape and fill) but also because I agreed with the logic that if there and shaggy issues when the electrics go live its going to be much easier to drop a few boards. Electrics going live this week hopefully then I start taping and filling. What make of fittings did you go with in the end? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted June 18, 2017 Share Posted June 18, 2017 MK Elements in Ice White. :-) One advantage is we can paint then put the cover plates on afterwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassanclan Posted June 18, 2017 Share Posted June 18, 2017 Whoever fits the plasterboard surely has to cut out the holes for the back boxes etc. I can't see why they wouldn't. The only exception might be lighting where there is access to the area above (e.g. loft) or lighting where there are hole cutouts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted June 18, 2017 Share Posted June 18, 2017 We had a 45mm service void so in theory, the sheets could be put on and skimmed then the spark could go fishing... Recipe for lost cables and holes in the wrong places methinks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 18, 2017 Share Posted June 18, 2017 Ballsaching task having to find them afterwards imo. If you're really unlucky some animal will find them with the ball end of a hammer and roughly hack out the rectangle. Needs care taken or you'll finish up with an oversize hole and will have to hope the faceplate covers it or use finger plates. If the plasterboard is set too far forward you might need box extnders like these: https://www.ukelectricalsupplies.com/search.htm?search=Metal+extension+box Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted June 18, 2017 Share Posted June 18, 2017 the person fitting the boards cuts the holes. unless you are using plasterboard boxes, but if so make doubly sure the sparks knows this and has mapped where he/she has put the cables. (I realize you said the boxes are already in, but just for clarity) AFAIC @Alphonsox did it the standard way for metal back boxes. I also very much doubt the sparks left the boxes that far back that they could be boarded straight over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted June 18, 2017 Share Posted June 18, 2017 Just on the off chance that you might have been offered the services of a passing plasterer, and had to skim everything before the sparky had finished, leaving some wires curled up behind the boards... would a stud detector be useful in finding them again? (asking for a friend, obviously...) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted June 18, 2017 Share Posted June 18, 2017 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 18, 2017 Share Posted June 18, 2017 19 minutes ago, Construction Channel said: I rest my case! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted June 18, 2017 Share Posted June 18, 2017 50 minutes ago, Crofter said: Just on the off chance that you might have been offered the services of a passing plasterer, and had to skim everything before the sparky had finished, leaving some wires curled up behind the boards... would a stud detector be useful in finding them again? (asking for a friend, obviously...) Im not sure a stud detector would find them but a tone set might if they are fairly close to the back of the board. I.e. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GREENLEE-TEXTRON-PTS100-200-432A-TONE-AND-PROBE-SET-TEL-BT-PLUG-/142371929050?hash=item2126073bda:g:bpMAAOxykMpTHtqm It will though be a very feint tone from behind plasterboard. You can also drill some small holes to poke the probe into. Less invasive than a lump hammer Oh and make sure the circuit is NOT live using a tone set! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted June 18, 2017 Share Posted June 18, 2017 (edited) +1 on the tone set. That was what I was going to suggest. Edit it to add : boarding first and going hunting afterwards = time consuming disaster. Just wait until your sparky says you have an open ring main and let the fun commence. No ta. Edited June 18, 2017 by Nickfromwales Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 My normal protocol is the boarders can cut a rectangular hole for the box, BUT they become responsible if they cut it in the wrong place. Usually the boarders just drill a hole and poke the cables through, at least that way all positions are identified. In spite of telling them the height to drill said hole, it is surprising how many times when I go back to cut the rectangular holes for the boxes, the "temporary" hole is left above or below the proper box position. The boarders never care, their answer is "The taper will sort it" Same when they bruise a board through lack of care. Last time I had an "open ring main" the missing box turned out to be behind a radiator who's position had moved after first fix and nobody thought it would matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bitpipe Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 Our tackers did a very neat job of the socket holes (and MVHR plenums, toilet pipes etc..)- only ever a few mm gap all round - can't imagine doing it any other way tbh. For downlights, these were drilled after decorating by the sparky who'd noted all his cable positions before hand. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 (edited) Anybody tried the Studbox yet? http://www.studbox.co.uk/ Edited June 19, 2017 by dpmiller Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bitpipe Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 1 hour ago, dpmiller said: Anybody tried the Studbox yet? http://www.studbox.co.uk/ Very innovative, challenge will be cost - I can see them online for £3.76 (RRP £13!) but a standard galv box is 70p, less when bulk bought. Question is whether you get the labour saving back from the sparky and tacker, I'd be somewhat doubtful.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 1 hour ago, dpmiller said: Anybody tried the Studbox yet? http://www.studbox.co.uk/ I don't see what advantage that gives you over a plasterboard box? (yes I know some hate PB boxes) It seems to have a flaw that the bit that screws to the stud sticks proud of the stud by a few mm. That will create a bump in the plasterboard that some will notice. What fixes the "free" end in their picture? it would appear, nothing. It also ties you to positioning the accessories a certain fixed distance from the studs, no chance to make them line up with other stuff as you may wish. Not for me. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 A kitchen had a previous fireplace with alcoves either side. To square the room off they had gone straight across the front of the chimney stack with thick chipboard and not a stud in sight. Access behind was a bitch. It was a 2G socket with a couple of 20A DP switches on a one gang. I couldn't use a 2+1 box as the Volex accessories had bigger faceplates than usual. Screwed to the rear of the chip via folded lids. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 Many years ago I had a summer job helping an electrician wire an office block in Staines. Finished the 4th floor and we had a double socket left over. Eventually worked out the plasterers had gone right over one of the boxes. Electrician asks me what I think is the best way to find it? I suggest we go down to the floor below to find the rough location then use his metal detector. No he said. Best way is just to jab holes all over the plaster until we find it, that way the plasterers will learn not to do it again. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbouk Posted June 20, 2017 Author Share Posted June 20, 2017 Thanks for all the comments. The plasterers will be cutting the holes when they board, as I would have expected... One less task for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 Make sure they know the building regs min and max heights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 We had a T shaped batten with the heights marked on so when it was stood on the floor it was pretty accurate .... simple things ..! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 16 minutes ago, PeterW said: We had a T shaped batten with the heights marked on so when it was stood on the floor it was pretty accurate .... simple things ..! Don't forget to allow for finished floor level if final floor has not yet been laid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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