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Building a Block Workshop - ADVICE NEEDED!


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4 hours ago, stunotch said:

I have recently had planning permission approved for a large double storey side extension on the house, went through with no issues. The neighbour has a 7x8M double storey garage right next to the boundary where I want to build mine, and a new housing estate that is being built in the field behind my house is building a double garage with pitch roof directly behind my boundary wall where I want to build mine. So I can't imagine there would be any issues at all getting planning for a pitch roof. I will contact the planning officer to discuss it and see what he says. 

I'd be getting on the chat with the site guys soon about bringing you in concrete and other materials at site prices...

 

 

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12 minutes ago, Carrerahill said:

I'd be getting on the chat with the site guys soon about bringing you in concrete and other materials at site prices...

 

 

Unfortunately, its a Taylor Wimpey development, there is little to no chance that they would help in that way. 

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I've spoken to the planning officer today, same chap that recently signed of our plans for a double storey extension. He has said it wont require planning permission so long as the ridge of the roof is a max of 3m. 

 

So, i'm trying to work out, how to work out the roof pitch and height. 

 

The building will be 4M square, and I think the eaves height would be 2.5M. How do I work this out? 

 

I have broken up the existing concrete slab over the weekend and cleared the site, and hoping to hire a 0.8ton excavator maybe this week to dig the footings. 

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15 minutes ago, stunotch said:

I've spoken to the planning officer today, same chap that recently signed of our plans for a double storey extension. He has said it wont require planning permission so long as the ridge of the roof is a max of 3m. 

 

So, i'm trying to work out, how to work out the roof pitch and height. 

 

The building will be 4M square, and I think the eaves height would be 2.5M. How do I work this out? 

 

I have broken up the existing concrete slab over the weekend and cleared the site, and hoping to hire a 0.8ton excavator maybe this week to dig the footings. 

You don’t need to work out the pitch and height unless you specifically want to.

but let’s say ridge height of 3m and eaves at 2.5 and run is 2.25m (half of the 4 plus a bit for eaves overhang). Gives a pitch angle of approx 12.5 degrees 
 

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29 minutes ago, stunotch said:

I've spoken to the planning officer today, same chap that recently signed of our plans for a double storey extension. He has said it wont require planning permission so long as the ridge of the roof is a max of 3m. 

 

Was that on the phone or on site? I dont think he realised it was going to be close to the boundary. Permitted development rights allow 3m for a single pitch or 4m for a dual pitch roof. However if any part is within 2m of the boundary the whole building must be under 2.5m.

 

See points 7 and 8..

 

https://ecab.planningportal.co.uk/uploads/miniguides/outbuildings/Outbuildings.pdf

 

That pretty much means it will be a flat roof unless you move it away from the boundary or submit a Planning Application.

 

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1 hour ago, Temp said:

 

Was that on the phone or on site? I dont think he realised it was going to be close to the boundary. Permitted development rights allow 3m for a single pitch or 4m for a dual pitch roof. However if any part is within 2m of the boundary the whole building must be under 2.5m.

 

See points 7 and 8..

 

https://ecab.planningportal.co.uk/uploads/miniguides/outbuildings/Outbuildings.pdf

 

That pretty much means it will be a flat roof unless you move it away from the boundary or submit a Planning Application.

 

 

What happens to a 4m shed with a 2 sided mansard roof, and a flat centre on top?

 

(He asked helpfully) 

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Well, I've made a start! Decided to dig the footings by hand - my back regretted it immediately but it's done now and I've saved £300 on digger hire :)
I've just borrowed my friends posh laser level so I can mark the levels for the concrete, and maybe some good news - One of the builders on the Taylor Wimpey site rekons he can arrange for them to pump the concrete over the back wall for me! That would be a big help. 

IMG_20221008_143402.jpg.307d657ab210be2171b74b04b72f41c5.jpgIMG_20221008_143347.jpg.b2c47edde84ac78ca8477b4f8b4fb3b7.jpgIMG_20221008_143258.jpg.222d499ead93b2e64564025816958226.jpgIMG_20221008_143251.jpg.6fb2a446bda4738b1e14a15b13545a19.jpg

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4 minutes ago, Roundtuit said:

Wow!  That's a lot of digging, good effort!  Did it need to be that wide?  That's a lot of concrete reqd.

 

After reading through this forum and others, seemed like 500mm width would be about right? 
I want it to last! :)

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9 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

You have applied for building regs I hope. If not, then do so before concrete. Best phone the local authority one....you won't get in trouble or told off.

Why would it need BR's?  It's surely under the size to require it?

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20 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

You have applied for building regs I hope. If not, then do so before concrete. Best phone the local authority one....you won't get in trouble or told off.

I checked, and don't need building regs. 

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Question .. 

 

Before I pour the concrete floor/slab, obviously I'm going to put a DPC and insulation down, but what should go under the DPC and essentially on top of the earth that is currently there? 

 

Stone dust or chippings? And how much of it?

 

Thanks 👍

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On 11/10/2022 at 17:36, Chanmenie said:

Hardcore, type1 or clean crushed concrete, compact that with a whacker plate then blind with sharp sand or fill sand which is cheaper if you can get it.

then DPC then insulation 

I was wondering if I can use the concrete slab that I broke up, maybe break that in to small pieces as its currently in big bits. Would make sense to recycle. 
I looked at hiring a concrete crusher but not worth it cost wise unfortunately. 

So the DPC should go down on top of a bed of sand which is on top of hardcore essentially? 

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I've just set out my levels for the foundations with a laser level. At the highest point in the foundation I have actually hit solid rock, but this means the concrete in that location will only be around 13cm thick when poured.  Is this acceptable considering it is on top of very firm ground? 

 

The opposite side of the foundations will be almost 30cm of concrete.

 

I know the concrete will almost find its own level, but I have knocked wooden stakes in to the ground and marked the level the concrete needs to be at, and have also tied builders string between the stakes as a visual guide for the concrete level... Any other tips before the concrete comes?! 

 

 

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130 concrete on rock is fine. 

300 is very thick. What is the reason for that?

 

Concrete does not find its own level. Or shouldn't if you haven't added water.

Your peg method is very sensible, because the driver can judge while pouring and then you just have to shovel and forget the lasering.

If checking the poured concrete with the laser, be sure not to let the staff depress the surface and give a false reading. This is a common mistake and the blocks need to be cut.

Do not add water to the concrete. It is a precise mix and axrea water makes it very much weaker, for the sake of a bit more work.

 

When finished, the driver asks where you want the surplus and slops. Decide in advance.  Then he washes out the drum and again you need a place or barrow to hand.

How accurately are you calculating the order? Again your pegs help a lot in measuring the depth. 

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1 hour ago, saveasteading said:

Approx 16m x 0.5 x 0.2, = 1.6m3.

If delivered in a big mixer you will pay for 5.4m3 not carried.

If you can get volumetric (mixed on site) it should be cheaper, and no waste.

 

 I will hopefully be getting the concrete from the Taylor Wimpey site behind my house, they will pour it over the wall, so I can take just what I need, as they will be using the rest else where on site. That will also solve a number of problems. 

Why the one trench is 30cm is because I dug down until I got to solid ground, there was a lot of loose mud and so that trench is deeper. It won't matter that some areas are deeper will it? I do have quite a bit of rubble lying about, so I could have some at the ready to throw in with the concrete perhaps? 

 

As I say, I've knocked in 3 stakes with a pencil line marking the level, and tied pink builders string between each stake so as the concrete goes in I can shovel it around until i can get it somewhere near the string levels. 

 

I Hope this works out! Its the first time I will have done this!! 😟

 

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