le-cerveau Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 @Onoff, I have had a look at the specs and they are only for the Sigma cisterns and flush plates, the Kappa's are a different size! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 6, 2017 Author Share Posted August 6, 2017 14 minutes ago, le-cerveau said: @Onoff, I have had a look at the specs and they are only for the Sigma cisterns and flush plates, the Kappa's are a different size! Yep, The older UP200 limited me on the choice of flush plates etc. The more modern cisterns have built in take off "Y" branches etc for extracting pan smells so I've had to make my own with help from on here. Never mind. Good find though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 9, 2017 Author Share Posted August 9, 2017 (edited) The irony of my hole saw saga isn't lost on me here. The 38mm DEEP Starrett when it eventually arrived wasn't big enough to clear the pipe elbow : So it was out with the FeckitTM And a bit of widening: All to do this: Edited August 9, 2017 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2017 Author Share Posted August 10, 2017 (edited) Much hacking out of PIR for clearance then an A-15 Starrett extension, an A-1 adapter then an A-19 "Oops" with a deep 38mm hole saw on! All to get this 32mm pan take off pipe in: At least I missed the water pipe this time in the loft: Edited August 10, 2017 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2017 Author Share Posted August 10, 2017 So the time has come when I've run out of excuses why not to board this over! Well, at least the lower half as I'm not sure what's happening pocket wise above the wc until I ping the laser round. Just got to wait until the foam goes off and cut it all flush! I've a nice draught coming down from the loft now if i put my hand in through the flush plate! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 17 minutes ago, Onoff said: So the time has come when I've run out of excuses why not to board this over! lets not get hasty here. Have you double checked the water level is stable. have you taken lots of photos, have you finished that can of "lager" have you got a cat? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2017 Author Share Posted August 10, 2017 24 minutes ago, Construction Channel said: have you got a cat? If it can dig it's way up through 2' of clay and flint then shift the pallet SWMBO insist I laid over the grave "in case the foxes dig her up", then escaping being boarded in behind a wall mount wc will be child's play. It can even have my lager. Let's not forget the whole reanimation issue! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 always best to check Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 12, 2017 Author Share Posted August 12, 2017 So I used Sika EBT where the ply was going onto the (blue) Geberit frame and Gorilla glue where the ply was going onto the timber studs. Worked out so I missed bolts and screws affixing the studwork to the walls. Plasterboard screws used ply to timber and self drill ply to Geberit frame: Seems to have gone on nice, solid and level: Got to put the Aquapanel on next. Now I've aimed, when I've done my studwork, to put a (green) VCL over them before the plasterboard. This for draught proofing. I was going to cover the ply above in VCL then screw the Aquapanel on. The alternative is ditch the VCL here, apply Sika EBT to the ply and screw the Aquapanel straight to the ply. Of course the Sika won't stick too well to the VCL. Any thoughts please? Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 Not possible to tape the joints? Looking good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 13, 2017 Author Share Posted August 13, 2017 35 minutes ago, CC45 said: Not possible to tape the joints? Looking good. Sorry, tape what joints, where the mr (green) plaster board butts up to the Aquapanel in the corner do you mean? Thinking about it the wet room corner will be 3 Aqua panels high and that will only be straight onto studs so I might as well put the membrane on and just rely on the Knauf Aquapanel screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 If the boards are ply with vcl on top of them and then plasterboard - why not tape the joints in the ply & save the hassle of vcl? I think I would be happy to rely on the panels without the vcl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 13, 2017 Author Share Posted August 13, 2017 15 minutes ago, CC45 said: If the boards are ply with vcl on top of them and then plasterboard - why not tape the joints in the ply & save the hassle of vcl? I think I would be happy to rely on the panels without the vcl. Would certainly be easier in this particular area where I'd like a solid"er than a solid thing type fix between back of the Aquapanel and face of the ply. Above the ply where the Celotex is will eventually be (mois.res.) pb with a "pocket" let in. To the right, right up to the internal corner will be Aquapanel, floor to ceiling continuing around the corner and with pockets on the same wall as the wc but not the return wall. I was going to put a chamfered corner in but think it will be hassle getting the wall drain in as well...so I'll probably put a chamfered corner in! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 13, 2017 Author Share Posted August 13, 2017 I had it in my head to go with 5mm grout (white) lines. Too thick with this size tile? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tennentslager Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 Nick will be along but I'd bet 2 or 3mm max for tile spacing ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 5mm is quite wide - more of a floor tile spacing, I normally do 3 or 4mm for wall tiles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 13, 2017 Author Share Posted August 13, 2017 (edited) 14 minutes ago, CC45 said: 5mm is quite wide - more of a floor tile spacing, I normally do 3 or 4mm for wall tiles. Never done wall tiles myself. I've carefully chased a few out in kitchens for wiring etc (and replaced) but never tiled a wall from scratch. Did one small area of Wickes floor tiles in the early 90s but left the grouting to the missus. When they eventually do come the tiling questions will be thick 'n fast! Edited August 13, 2017 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 3 hours ago, Onoff said: I had it in my head to go with 5mm grout (white) lines. Too thick with this size tile? ? 2 hours ago, Tennentslager said: Nick will be along but I'd bet 2 or 3mm max for tile spacing ? ? 5mm spacers should be abolished. Yuk. @Onoff, haven't you got a 'mosaic tile' going in? If so it'll have a pre-determined grout line, most prob 3mm. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 13, 2017 Author Share Posted August 13, 2017 38 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: 5mm spacers should be abolished. Yuk. @Onoff, haven't you got a 'mosaic tile' going in? If so it'll have a pre-determined grout line, most prob 3mm. ? Just checked. The "mosaic", tiles, again 400x250, have 5mm pseudo grout lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 1 hour ago, Onoff said: Just checked. The "mosaic", tiles, again 400x250, have 5mm pseudo grout lines. Maybe I should be more subtle ? They're prob more like 4mm, with the wider appearance created by the rolled / radius'd edge of the tile that it's trying to mimic. Maybe put a couple of tiles down with blue tack and fit 3mm spacers, grout them and have a look. Clean them off before it cures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 8 hours ago, Onoff said: Just checked. The "mosaic", tiles, again 400x250, have 5mm pseudo grout lines. To check gaps like that I use plastic packers/spacers pushed in. I have a collection of 1mm to 6mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 19 minutes ago, PeterStarck said: To check gaps like that I use plastic packers/spacers pushed in. I have a collection of 1mm to 6mm. The tiles he has are the large format mosaic-effect tiles with dummy grout lines pre-inserted. You don't even grout over them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 5 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: The tiles he has are the large format mosaic-effect tiles with dummy grout lines pre-inserted. You don't even grout over them. Bit early in the morning for me! I'll have to read it more carefully next time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 I've just finished this bathroom.... As its rectified edge porcelain, I used 2mm spacers. Was really peeved when I found every other floor tile had a 1-2mm 'hump' in the middle of each 600mm edge . Had to sit tiles alongside each other, dry, to ascertain which 'complimented' each other best prior to sticking them down, numbering them accordingly for reference. What an absolute bastard of a floor to lay. Grade 5 porcelain and a brand new £68 Rubi blade in my radial wet saw didn't last the job out. Not a single tile in that room would cut on my £360 Rubi scribe and snap cutter. Every cut, wet and slow. ?? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 3 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: I've just finished this bathroom.... As its rectified edge porcelain, I used 2mm spacers. Was really peeved when I found every other floor tile had a 1-2mm 'hump' in the middle of each 600mm edge . Had to sit tiles alongside each other, dry, to ascertain which 'complimented' each other best prior to sticking them down, numbering them accordingly for reference. What an absolute bastard of a floor to lay. Grade 5 porcelain and a brand new £68 Rubi blade in my radial wet saw didn't last the job out. Not a single tile in that room would cut on my £360 Rubi scribe and snap cutter. Every cut, wet and slow. ?? Was it a fixed price quote ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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