Onoff Posted April 12, 2017 Author Share Posted April 12, 2017 So is the idea you leave a laser level in situ for the duration of the tiling or do you just use to mark lines on the walls that you tile up to? (My bath surround unsurprisingly isn't "fixed" yet btw). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 Use the laser to set out and a once your happy you then set the laser beam to sit in the grout line ( 3mm grout line and no more, I routinely do 2mm ) and have it on as you tile each area. The laser lights up the spacers to give you a good guide as to how your going. Cracking unit for the money here, and I'd buy the dewalt over the green ( DIY ) Bosch every time. You'll also sell the dewalt on again without taking too much of a hit . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 On 12 April 2017 at 16:51, Nickfromwales said: [...]You'll also sell the dewalt on again without taking too much of a hit . [...] Said every self builder ever, when justifying the latest tool purchase to the project accountant......... And never selling a single thing, just in case ! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 12, 2017 Author Share Posted April 12, 2017 SELL? No, no, no! You must keep and attempt to repair spending more money and time in the process than you would have cutting your losses! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 8 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Use the laser to set out and a once your happy you then set the laser beam to sit in the grout line ( 3mm grout line and no more, I routinely do 2mm ) and have it on as you tile each area. The laser lights up the spacers to give you a good guide as to how your going. Cracking unit for the money here, and I'd buy the dewalt over the green ( DIY ) Bosch every time. You'll sell the dewalt on again without taking too much of a hit too . Will my Rotary be okay? I'ts a bit cumbersome and verticals not as easy I suppose. Either that or get a £49.99 Jobby from Screwfix? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 A £50 laser will be a £50 laser . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 The dewalt one Nick suggested is good. I've used in indoors during the day time and its easy to see. Not wasted cash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 I borrowed my mates one when I didn't have the Bosch and a fantastic, rugged unit for the money. He's had his for a good 5/6 years and it's had a hammering and is still going strong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 16, 2017 Author Share Posted April 16, 2017 And LONG before any tiling commences..... Just realised/remembered that I need to pack the fronts of this stud wall to account for the soil pipe being set about a 1/4" proud (I can't move the soil): The offending soil pipe: How it sits proud: I'll need to pack over the Geberit frame too. Was going to screw/glue the ply like this to the joists and Sika to the (blue) frame where there is no timber to screw thru: The wall will be tanked as it's primarily a wet room corner. Can't really stretch to marine ply so was going to nip out in the morning and get some of this 9mm ply from Wickes and glue / pin on, The fact that I'll be tanking it will it be OK do you reckon? http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Non-Structural-Hardwood-Plywood-9-x-1220-x-2440mm/p/110111 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 18, 2017 Author Share Posted April 18, 2017 Anyone? I need to choose a ply to pack out this wall. Did even consider using 12 or 18mm and "grooving" it to miss the apex of the horizontal soil pipe: Chap at the timber yard reckons the far eastern one would do if I'm tanking: http://www.blewerstimber.co.uk/plywood.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 19, 2017 Author Share Posted April 19, 2017 Would I get away with stopping the boarding (pb shown but would use Aquapanel), either side of the projecting soil pipe and scrimming / filling? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 No, TBH. The board needs to be continuous or you'll gets problems. Cant you just rip full lengths of 4 or 6mm ply and fully clad each stud? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 30, 2017 Author Share Posted April 30, 2017 (edited) 9 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: No, TBH. The board needs to be continuous or you'll gets problems. Cant you just rip full lengths of 4 or 6mm ply and fully clad each stud? The soil pipe bulges out past the stud line a tad! EDIT: Guessing you knew that! OK, so I rip whatever and screw that to the face of the existing studs. The Aquapanel would then "bridge" the gap? I could maybe get some triangular shaped wedges, screwed in from the top, in there for more support if I cut some foam away? Edited April 30, 2017 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 3 minutes ago, Onoff said: The soil pipe bulges out past the stud line a tad! I think he means ply as a packer to space the aquapanel off the studs so it clears the soil pipe. Or machine out the back of the aquapanel to clear the soil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 1 hour ago, ProDave said: I think he means ply as a packer to space the aquapanel off the studs so it clears the soil pipe. Yup. 1 hour ago, Onoff said: I could maybe get some triangular shaped wedges, screwed in from the top, in there for more support if I cut some foam away? Nope Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 8, 2017 Author Share Posted July 8, 2017 (edited) Was it really April I last posted here? Last left that I needed to pack out the fronts of one section of stud wall to clear the soil pipe. I was thinking MARINE ply but baulking at the cost. Serendipity came a calling today in the form of a stack of 8' long, 9mm ply strips. A cancelled order or something at the local wood yard. Just over the 100mm wide I can get two strips out of each or one where I've doubled up on the studs: I don't know what grade ply it is but looking at the edge seems pretty solid with no great gaps if any at all tbh: The "free" element of all this has made me think that these'll be fine as long as everything is tanked? Some areas have MR plasterboard going over and others Aquapanel. I don't really want to move the Geberit frame now its in but of course it'll now be nom 9mm below the face of the ply strips. I was thinking that where I've got a stud and the Gebeit frame I could use a wider bit of this ply as shown below, affixed to the stud and simply packed out with Sikabond or similar where it sits over the Geberit frame? And what about the horizontal bits of the Geberit frame, can I just "glue" ply strips on, Sika again? I've a few tubes of generic "No Nails" kicking around. As to fixing the ply to the studs, a line of glue then the air brad nailer was my first choice but my mates got my brad nailer. I can get it back easy enough but if not then any old screws knocking about I'm thinking? Edited July 8, 2017 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted July 9, 2017 Share Posted July 9, 2017 7 hours ago, Onoff said: Was it really April I last posted here? Last left that I needed to pack out the fronts of one section of stud wall to clear the soil pipe. I was thinking MARINE ply but baulking at the cost. Serendipity came a calling today in the form of a stack of 8' long, 9mm ply strips. A cancelled order or something at the local wood yard. Just over the 100mm wide I can get two strips out of each or one where I've doubled up on the studs: I don't know what grade ply it is but looking at the edge seems pretty solid with no great gaps if any at all tbh: The "free" element of all this has made me think that these'll be fine as long as everything is tanked? Some areas have MR plasterboard going over and others Aquapanel. I don't really want to move the Geberit frame now its in but of course it'll now be nom 9mm below the face of the ply strips. I was thinking that where I've got a stud and the Gebeit frame I could use a wider bit of this ply as shown below, affixed to the stud and simply packed out with Sikabond or similar where it sits over the Geberit frame? And what about the horizontal bits of the Geberit frame, can I just "glue" ply strips on, Sika again? I've a few tubes of generic "No Nails" kicking around. As to fixing the ply to the studs, a line of glue then the air brad nailer was my first choice but my mates got my brad nailer. I can get it back easy enough but if not then any old screws knocking about I'm thinking? Go on. Make your new worktop out of these glued together horizontally. I dare you. F Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 9, 2017 Share Posted July 9, 2017 Id screw, not nail with brads tbh as the board screws may jack them off a bit as your boarding. You could even use a good wood glue and just cut a 4x2 the same length, propped off against the opposite wall or clamped, to ensure each one is flat, and stays flat. Better than screwing too, as with the thin ply you'll need to screw at at least every 150mm centre to ensure its fully flat ( in contact with the stud ). The only part of the Geberit frame that does anything fixing / structurally wise is the blue metal frame. Sticking strips of 9mm ply to the frame is perfectly fine . Leave it 100mm wide and you'll have less work to do, but even better still, can you fit an entire section of ply at the bottom half ( where the bog is fitted ) as that's where all the major stress will happen. Use S/Flex but a very thin bead applied to the metal first, spread with a packer to completely cover all of the face of the metal, and then another thin bead to use as a marker. Press the ply onto it gently and withdraw to see where the goop contacts the ply, then do the same with the packer so you have 100% contact and 100% guarantee of no voids. Fyi, on the last similar job I did where I had to ply the whole wall, I bought self cutting machine screws and uber fixed the ply mechanically to the lower section, and the same again at the top with half as many. That, with the bond, was like welding the ply on. OCD strikes again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 9, 2017 Author Share Posted July 9, 2017 7 hours ago, Ferdinand said: Go on. Make your new worktop out of these glued together horizontally. I dare you. F There's that many I could! (But I won't be ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 9, 2017 Author Share Posted July 9, 2017 @Nickfromwales, cheers for that. Seem to half remember about the self drill screws from somewhere (earlier in this thread?) I was thinking these 4x38s? A reviewer called "Fannymagnet" who fixed his "9mm ply to galv studs with ease" rates them! http://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-carbon-steel-self-drilling-roofing-screws-4-8-x-38mm-200-pack/2688h Just got to hunt down a larger bit of 9mm ply, now I've got over the not needing marine ply hump. Once the packing strips / sheet are on I could Thompson's Water Seal the face maybe? Just in case the tiles/tanking/mrpb/Aquapanel fails. I'm presuming to just screw the MR pb on. The same with the Aquapanel (got the special Knauf screws) or should that have a line of Sika or something? Ta. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 9, 2017 Share Posted July 9, 2017 1 hour ago, Onoff said: ? A reviewer called "Fannymagnet" My alter ego 1 hour ago, Onoff said: Once the packing strips / sheet are on I could Thompson's Water Seal the face maybe? Just in case the tiles/tanking/mrpb/Aquapanel fails. Take a chill pill ffs, the tanking will be bombproof . "Stand down red alert" 1 hour ago, Onoff said: just screw the MR pb on. Yup. I'd use a little bit of bond with the aqua panel myself, but if you screw with enough frequency you shouldn't really need to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 9, 2017 Author Share Posted July 9, 2017 Yep, this'll work. 150mm centres with 38mm p'board screws, Gorilla glue. Spaced so the actual p'board screws shouldn't clash and follow round from those already done...even though they'll all be covered up! Toothache stopped play! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 10, 2017 Author Share Posted July 10, 2017 Is this alright to go on the Geberit frame / behind the Aquapanel? Still thinking to Thompson's it. http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Non-Structural-Hardwood-Plywood-9-x-607-x-1220mm/p/110402?CAWELAID=120135120000005520&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=37524970732&CATCI=aud-162417460132:pla-193348859092&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIh4a1iO_-1AIVJbXtCh0CRQ6UEAQYASABEgL7KPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 11, 2017 Author Share Posted July 11, 2017 Just got one of these for £90! http://www.tapsempire.co.uk/geberit-wall-drain-showers-p-45238.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7KHevqKC1QIVpZPtCh0EYw-PEAYYASABEgI3y_D_BwE 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 All you have to do now is fit it ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now