Onoff Posted March 25, 2017 Author Share Posted March 25, 2017 3 hours ago, PeterStarck said: I glued packing pieces to the metal frame where the pan is bolted through to prevent the board being bent towards the frame when tightening up the bolts. IIRC it was only around 2mm gap. Doesn't look like I'll have any gap tbh. The front of the Geberit frame I've got dead flush with the face of the studs. There's no real "test" for this is there before the pan goes on? Just do everything "right" and hope! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 7 minutes ago, Onoff said: There's no real "test" for this is there before the pan goes on? Just do everything "right" and hope! Chuck a bucket under the flush pipe and hold a 40mm bend over the end of it. Let it ripp and check its flushing ok. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 25, 2017 Author Share Posted March 25, 2017 27 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Chuck a bucket under the flush pipe and hold a 40mm bend over the end of it. Let it ripp and check its flushing ok. ? Good shout ref the cistern side. I was more meaning the what will be hidden soil pipes with the (in my case) multiple solvent joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 Garden hose with the attachment on fine mist spray. Feed it down from the bog side past all the 45's etc and pull it slowly back leaving it run at the outlet for a good 10 mins after. The narrow hozelock spray head before you say you can't get the pistol one down there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 27, 2017 Author Share Posted March 27, 2017 The sticky out Geberit box thing the flush plate goes on.....is it just a case of careful measuring then cut a rectangle in the cement board to suit as close as and you snap off the exess projecting box later once you've tiled? Or should I leave say a 3mm nom gap all round in the cement board? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 Eugh, cloudy German wheat beer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 27, 2017 Author Share Posted March 27, 2017 2 minutes ago, Barney12 said: Eugh, cloudy German wheat beer Anything that takes the edge off! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassanclan Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 5-10mm gap around that will be nice a nice gap to get a bit of silicone sealant in afterwards, 3mm will be tight and the chances of cutting it so accurately will be slim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryE Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 10 hours ago, bassanclan said: 3mm will be tight and the chances of cutting it so accurately will be slim You don't know Clive do you? ?? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 28, 2017 Author Share Posted March 28, 2017 38 minutes ago, TerryE said: You don't know Clive do you? ?? I LOVE YOU!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 24 minutes ago, Onoff said: I LOVE YOU!! Get a room! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 5 minutes ago, Barney12 said: Get a room! Maybe Onoff can fit it out first. It'll be a nice job but we may need to wait a while! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 A 5mm shadow around the flush plate sleeve is fine as it's only the tile you need absolutely snug to it. <3mm or you'll see the cuts around the flush plate, it's really that tight a tolerance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryE Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 On 28/03/2017 at 09:30, Onoff said: I LOVE YOU!! But even Clive doesn't work to these tolerances 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 I bet he does lol. Prepare to eat your words Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 30, 2017 Author Share Posted March 30, 2017 Went for 5mm gap round the sleeve. Looks OK. Could have easily done 3mm I reckon: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 (edited) Reading @jack's nightmare post ref his tiles had made me question my own potential movement issues: Worried first about the Geberit frame flexing/moving. I've put timber studwork in at nom. 503mm inside to inside. To affix the top of the Geberit frame I've put a length of Unistrut, Fischer resined with 5 M10 studs. Theoretically with those 3 additional studs in the centre even if the outer two fail the frame should hold. All 5 studs btw go in about 100mm into the 9" blocks where I blocked a doorway up. VERY roughly rendered as I've had some to use up: (Lining the old doorway with 25mm EPS offcuts just to keep everything tidy). So, assuming the resin studs hold there's also 2 bolt holes each side in the blue frame. These measure 10x9mm. The coach screws I have are 8mm. Worried about movement there: They actually go in from the other direction, this just to show the "slop". Wondering whether to drill out and up to M10 coach screws: Will they really do anything at M8? Then, the vertical timber studs: The whole stud wall is a big, tapered stud wall hung from the ceiling joists. The stud wall itself is tapered too. The first stud is 100mm and the last 145mm deep. This was to square the room off. This is looking down on the gap where the old doorway was / the wc is going: The studs are generally affixed using concrete screws but where the wc goes I've doubled up with M10 stuff, again resin anchored. All studs are foamed behind. (Pretty sure that in itself offers some security). If the studs should dry out over time I worry about the (timber) stud moving about the M10 stud. Each position is counterbored and affixed with a fr washer, spring washer and full nut. The reason for this "worry" as I say is Jack's issues. Next the Aquapanel. Knauf say to use their 40mm screws at 250mm centres. Seems too far apart to me? Do these self drill? Edited April 2, 2017 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Don't use self drillers. Pilot with a drill bit ( sacrificial one ) and countersink as per @PeterStarck's comment. S/S fixings. Dont cause any distress to the board by forcing fixings through it as that will compromise each attempt at securing the board and make fitting it pointless. I'm still a PB fan, and not lost a patient yet. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tennentslager Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 I got these, very easy... http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-countersink-12-7-x-70mm/86157?bvrrp=5873-en_gb/reviews/product/2/86157.htm 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 50 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Don't use self drillers. Pilot with a drill bit ( sacrificial one ) and countersink as per @PeterStarck's comment. S/S fixings. Dont cause any distress to the board by forcing fixings through it as that will compromise each attempt at securing the board and make fitting it pointless. I'm still a PB fan, and not lost a patient yet. You're at odds there with @PeterW. back on 6 Mar he said: "Use the Knauf ones ..! They are coated not to rust and cut through the board without drilling. You risk shearing a st/st one unless it's top quality. They only get put in just flush with the surface of the board anyway - not like PB where you want them to pull in slightly." So I bought Knauf ones! They look pretty good tbh. St/st was my first choice I'll admit. The load of on clearance ones I got from S'fix are pretty good but I have stripped a few heads under high torque. It was just the 250mm centres Knauf reckon seemed too much. Got the offcut from the flush sleeve I'm going to go and try affixing to a stud! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 This lady is not for turning ? Pilot and countersink, and no less than 150mm centre, 100mm would be better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Sorry but I go with the manufacturer fittings on this - the Knauf ones are pretty impressive as they only barely cut in and were designed for the job .... structurally you are weakening the board drilling a pilot if its larger then the screw thread ..! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Im afraid I'm with Nick on this one. Pilot it first but make the pilot only as large as the shank of the screw e.g the threads will still bite into the board. issue with not piloting and countersinking is there will be times where you end up drilling out the stud with the screw trying to sink the head. 6" centres sounds plenty close enough to me Not fussed about the S/S part if I'm honest, if the manufacturer says the Knauf screws are fine that would be good enough for me. also worth noting that you want to make sure the board is hard against the stud when you start. as there is no bare shank on that screw they won't "pull in" very well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 2 hours ago, PeterW said: Sorry but I go with the manufacturer fittings on this - the Knauf ones are pretty impressive as they only barely cut in and were designed for the job .... structurally you are weakening the board drilling a pilot if its larger then the screw thread ..! Yup, which is why you buy the right size drill bit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 2 hours ago, Construction Channel said: worth noting that you want to make sure the board is hard against the stud when you start. as there is no bare shank on that screw they won't "pull in" very well That's teferred to as 'jacking', where the threads grab the board on the way through and the screw tip hits the joist. It takes the screw a couple of revolutions to penetrate the timber and start biting, but those couple of revs have then lifted ( jacked ) the board away from the joist leaving a gap between the two. Unawares, the person driving the screw home assumes that when the screw head snugs into the board the fixing is complete, but actually the board is held away slightly with only the thread of the screw holding the board in place. Simply leaning against the board would be enough to lose that purchase ( tearing the board from the screw thread ) and start the board moving freely between the head of the screw and the face of the timber. Thats when the ? hits the fan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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