Onoff Posted February 26, 2017 Author Share Posted February 26, 2017 8 hours ago, TerryE said: Clive, What I see in your photo is a flexible connector terminating in a ½" BSP male. Why does the male end of the flexible connector need to come out in some totally inaccessible location? I think we may be at cross purposes here? The flexible tap connector you see inside the cistern is part of the Geberit package that comes with it. That attaches to a service valve in the left hand side of the cistern that you access through the flush plate opening. I think you're suggesting to do away with the Geberit valve and flexible tap connector and replace with a longer , 3rd party one? The Geberit valve presents a 1/2" BSP valve on the left hand side of the cistern only as I say. There's no where else for it to go. A right angle fitting is the only thing that will fit. You're right about future access, it's bugging me hence the debate . As the stud depth there is 145mm I might be able to scallop the rear out to give hand access from the cupboard. Actually.....Maybe mod the timber studwork to give "proper" access? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 If a bent tap connector is used then the issue has an immediate resolve. Go fit one and end this madness. ? For anyone reading this, and scratching their head in bewilderment, on the upper left hand side of the cistern is the cold water inlet. It comes out horizontally and is 'staring' straight at the big timber vertical stud alongside. A hole cannot simply be drilled through the timber for the pipe as there is a bolt exactly there ( providing means of fixing the stud both to, and holding it away from, the wall ). The solution I've suggested is for a 90 degree connector to be fitted which brings the cold feed up the gap at the left side of the cistern, between it and the stud, as there appears to be sufficient space to mount the fitting and for the radius to turn down accordingly. Depending on how many real ales @Onoff drank last night, this may get resolved today Ok.... Lets go back to 'Clive-cam' where we can see the adult male emerging from the nest in what appears to be cream Y-fronts and slippers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 5 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Lets go back to 'Clive-cam' where we can see the adult male emerging from the nest in what appears to be cream Y-fronts and slippers. This thread now has close to 600 posts. I'm just waiting to see what happens when it gets to post 666........................... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryE Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 Clive, now I am confused. One end of the flexible connector goes to the internal service valve that is accessible through the front plate. It's the other end which is mounted in a through hole on the external casing, and it is this end that is against your stud. In our Gerberits there are 3 alternative exits for the flexible pipe. Even if your Gerberit only has the one, then what is to stop you just bending the internal flexible connector up and taking the end up vertically and if necessary cut a hole in the top cover if yours doesn't have a punch-out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said: Lets go back to 'Clive-cam' where we can see the adult male emerging from the nest in what appears to be cream Y-fronts and slippers. They were probably once white...... Angled flexi and job done - got to be the easiest ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 26, 2017 Author Share Posted February 26, 2017 1 hour ago, JSHarris said: This thread now has close to 600 posts. I'm just waiting to see what happens when it gets to post 666........................... A flood of biblical proportions seem most apt given the theme... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bitpipe Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 On 25/02/2017 at 18:07, Nickfromwales said: Good idea. Silicone is the anti-Christ when your looking to glue or paint something. I worked in an autobody repair shop for 2 years, prepping and priming damaged cars. I also got given the splenderific task of sanding out and machine polishing ( mopping ) any evidence of 'fish eyes' ( where silicone had somehow got into the booth from the valeting bay next door and caused the paint to react / not adhere properly ) which was a soul destroying job on a good day. Even worse when it's outside. Oh and don't keep the mop still on a freshly painted, plastic, Rover 216 door handle either Oops. Another day I was working for free Silicone was banned from our build when we were having the resin floor poured for this very reason - we had managed to avoid using any (using Sikaflex instead) but I had to jump in a few times to stop trades reaching for it. That said, Sikaflex is a bugger to get of glass once it's got smeared on - I added a 200mm glass projection to our ensuite wet room to prevent spray hitting the door a few weeks ago and I'm still cleaning it now - any suggestions on what to use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 (edited) 32 minutes ago, Bitpipe said: That said, Sikaflex is a bugger to get of glass once it's got smeared on - I added a 200mm glass projection to our ensuite wet room to prevent spray hitting the door a few weeks ago and I'm still cleaning it now - any suggestions on what to use? Do you know what type of Sikaflex it was? If it had a solvent-like smell then it was probably an isocyanate-based, moisture curing polyurethane, the sort of sealant that's used a lot on marine stuff and as a car body panel adhesive/sealant. If it was this, then toluene may well help to un-bond it from the glass, but it won't dissolve it, it will just soften it so it loses adhesion, and may well take a bit of time to do even that. In the past, I've found that using a bare Stanley knife blade will often remove 99% of the cured stuff from glass, and the rest can be removed by either a solvent or by polishing the glass with something like jewellers rouge. I have to say that it probably won't be easy, as the PU Sikaflex really does stick like sh** to a blanket! If it had either no distinctive smell, or a sort of smell a bit like cabbage (best I can describe it!) then the chances are it was a modified silicone polymer, like CT1, and something like acetone or methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) may well soften it. Generally, a bit of effort with a moderate solvent will get this off glass, as it doesn't bond as well as the PU stuff as a rule. Uncured polyurethane sealants can be pretty easily cleaned off with isopropyl alcohol, or even something like methylated spirit, quite well, but neither will touch the stuff once it's cured. I'm not sure what will clean off MSP sealants when uncured, as I've not used them very much. IPA works reasonably well at cleaning off uncured neutral cure silicone, but probably the best general purpose clean-up solvent for silicones generally is limonene - like in the citrus clean up cloths. Edited February 26, 2017 by JSHarris typo - "in" and "the" the wrong way around Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bitpipe Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 9 minutes ago, JSHarris said: Do you know what type of Sikaflex it was? If it had a solvent-like smell then it was probably an isocyanate-based, moisture curing polyurethane, the sort of sealant that's used a lot on marine stuff and as a car body panel adhesive/sealant. If it was this, then toluene may well help to un-bond it from the glass, but it won't dissolve it, it will just soften it so it loses adhesion, and may well take a bit of time to do even that. In the past, I've found that using a bare Stanley knife blade will often remove 99% of the cured stuff from glass, and the rest can be removed by either a solvent or by polishing the glass with something like jewellers rouge. I have to say that it probably won't be easy, as the PU Sikaflex really does stick like sh** to a blanket! If it had either no distinctive smell, or a sort of smell a bit like cabbage (best I can describe it!) then the chances are it was a modified silicone polymer, like CT1, and something like acetone or methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) may well soften it. Generally, a bit of effort with a moderate solvent will get this off glass, as it doesn't bond as well as the PU stuff as a rule. Uncured polyurethane sealants can be pretty easily cleaned off with isopropyl alcohol, or even something like methylated spirit, quite well, but neither will touch the stuff once it's cured. I'm not sure what will clean off MSP sealants when uncured, as I've not used them very much. IPA works reasonably well at cleaning off uncured neutral cure silicone, but probably the best general purpose clean-up solvent for silicones generally is limonene - like in the citrus clean up cloths. Thanks Jeremy - its the non solvent variety - elbow grease is the way forward, just wish I'd been a bit more diligent during the fitting ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 26, 2017 Author Share Posted February 26, 2017 46 minutes ago, Bitpipe said: I added a 200mm glass projection to our ensuite wet room to prevent spray hitting the door a few weeks ago and I'm still cleaning it now - any suggestions on what to use? I'll be picking your brains at some time ref glass wings like this as I reckon my bathroom won't maybe be big enough for the wet room corner without them. I'm putting extra timber in to take them if need be. Don't wait up for the questions though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 @Bitpipe MultiSolve should remove the sika. Mechanically remove as much as possible then use the spray with a cotton cloth. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 26, 2017 Author Share Posted February 26, 2017 6 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: @Bitpipe MultiSolve should remove the sika. Mechanically remove as much as possible then use the spray with a cotton cloth. ? & leave the MS on to work it's magic rather than take it straight off I find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 1 minute ago, Onoff said: & leave the MS on to work it's magic rather than take it straight off I find. +1. ?? Dont let it sit on anything sensitive though ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 26, 2017 Author Share Posted February 26, 2017 However I connect to this cistern I've decided it will have to be accessible. Mulling hand size Starrett holes through the 145mm joists so I can reach in from the cupboard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 Why does it need to be accessible? Your shower valve connections won't be, the soil connections wont be, etc etc. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 22 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: @Bitpipe MultiSolve should remove the sika. Mechanically remove as much as possible then use the spray with a cotton cloth. ? Multisolve is just naptha, which is heavy petroleum spirit, also referred to (especially here in the UK) as petroleum ether, and is a slightly less effective solvent than toluene. Some may know it better as lighter fuel, for Zippo lighters and the like. Toluene is often referred to as the "universal solvent" because it's a pretty good description of the stuff. You can buy 5 litres of petroleum ether for around £38, whereas 5 litres of Multisolve will cost you around £90 or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 26, 2017 Author Share Posted February 26, 2017 13 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Why does it need to be accessible? Your shower valve connections won't be, the soil connections wont be, etc etc. ? Just trying to make access if I can! Bath is fed with copper with no joints from the loft. Shower mixer will be the same. Bath and basin wastes are all solvent. Bath taps removeable from the outside as you know and the flexis fully accessible. Seems a shame not to give the wc the same consideration! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 35 minutes ago, Onoff said: Seems a shame not to give the wc the same consideration Seems a shame Gerberit would go to the effort of producing a cistern suitable to be be fully enclosed and you make access to a non moving connection . Would you even be able to get a spanner and grips in there afterwards ? The bath taps are probably the most practical install I've ever seen, and a great solution, but best to keep things practical eh? The cistern just doesn't need access imo. Hepworth bent tap connector and it's a fit n forget job afaic. ? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 27, 2017 Author Share Posted February 27, 2017 On 21/02/2017 at 21:37, Nickfromwales said: Use this for sloppy joints. Sorry for the late heads up How do you apply this cement in the tube? I mean with the brush on solvent it's brush on both surfaces push together and twist and the brush can get right in. Not so easy with the tube..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 27, 2017 Author Share Posted February 27, 2017 On 26/02/2017 at 18:51, JSHarris said: Multisolve is just naptha, which is heavy petroleum spirit, also referred to (especially here in the UK) as petroleum ether, and is a slightly less effective solvent than toluene. Some may know it better as lighter fuel, for Zippo lighters and the like. Toluene is often referred to as the "universal solvent" because it's a pretty good description of the stuff. You can buy 5 litres of petroleum ether for around £38, whereas 5 litres of Multisolve will cost you around £90 or so. Bought a litre of IPA at Maplin for £14.99! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 27, 2017 Author Share Posted February 27, 2017 500mm B&Q flexi: Hopefully long enough to get through the stub wall: If not there's always this: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 The flexi seems a plenty good enough solution. Put the starrett cutter down. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 1, 2017 Author Share Posted March 1, 2017 5 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: The flexi seems a plenty good enough solution. Put the starrett cutter down. . Starrett cutter put down... ...whilst I wait for the deep series 102mm Starrett to arrive! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 Seems a pity to cover this side of the stub wall with plasterboard. It's in the cupboard so would make very useable shelf space methinks. The long gap is reserved for my bog roll dispenser of course. But what to "line" the timber with? First thought was varnished marine ply but the missus is a "wipe clean / white" type. (Married the wrong bloke there!) Thinking plastic of some sort. Might have a chat with these people who I've used for work and will do small, private orders. They cut too. http://www.davis-plastics.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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