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Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework


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18 hours ago, JanetE said:

Just been checking the height of our toilets in the new house as they look a bit low. We followed the installation instructions on the Gerberit frame and added the build up for the floor finish. So I measured the height of our current toilet to the top not including the seat and it is 40cm.  Checked the ones in the new house and they are just over at 41/42cm. So this seems standard unless you've got very long legs then you can set the Gerberit a bit higher!B|

 

Our toilets are all floor-mounted, but a friend of mine is a wheelchair user, and struggles when he visits our old house, so I was keen to try and make things a bit easier in the new build.  He came around before I'd fixed the downstairs WC, both to have a look at how I was getting on and so I could get the benefit of his knowledge.  One consequence of that was that I raised the downstairs toilet up by 30mm, on an oak plinth, because with it at the standard height it was a bit too low for an easy transfer from a wheelchair alongside.  I'm not sure how high the seat is now, but I can measure it and report back on Monday.

 

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The soil on the pan is 100mm dia so I'll use the Geberit pan connector that came with the frame then the 90mm female to 110mm male kindly donated by @PeterStarck

 

20170218_191225

 

I thought the heavy duty ratchet spanner that came with the Bernstein pan was a nice touch:

 

20170218_191549

 

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Nice. :)

Thats one of the few pans I've seen with a fully open bottom underside. A previous Duravit one I fitted had long 19mm drive bolts that came down at right angle to horizontal, finishing just out of view at the bottom of the pan. They tightened upwards into angled slots cut into the thick metal torpedos that wound onto the metal studs ( threaded bars which screw into the frame and get left sticking out prior to offering the pan on ). The torpedos had an elongated angled slot cut into them, so as you tightened the bolt they forced themselves upwards and into the slot.  As the slot was angled and elongated the force of the bolt tightening turned into movement, pulling the bolt deeper into the slot, thus moving the pan closer to the wall / frame until tight. If you used all the slot and didn't get a snug fit you simply took the pan back off and turned the torpedo onto the threaded bars another one or two turns and retried. 

An excellent design IMO, far better than the side fixed types which use a big Allen key, plus, no horrible holes to fit equally ill-fitting and horrible cover caps into. :/

@Onoff, do your bolts simply pass through the pan and then you have nylon washes ( to separate porcelain from metal ), metal washers ( to stop the metal nuts turning and chewing through the nylon ones ), and BFO nuts which get tightened directly? If so, that ratchet spanner must have a very good ratchet with a small degree of movement ! Don't forget to wrap some cardboard around the spanner, to stop it chipping the pan if it slips ;)

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Joking aside, is a fully open bottom a good thing?

 

The ratchet does seem to have small increments. 

 

The Geberit fixing bolts seem made for this (both German?). A lugged plastic insert centralises in the hole in the pan. Veiwed from rear of pan:

 

2017-02-19_09-40-38

 

Then it connects the other side like this with large washer and nut:

 

20170219_091949

 

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1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said:

Yup. Scratch it up with 40 grit and use the proper solvent weld cleaner before the actual weld. Clean is the rule. 

 

Ta.  Not going to say "Are you sure?" but can't find anything in the Osma site to confirm this. The pipe is pvc-u to BS EN 13476-2. The Hepworth grey is pvc-u to BS EN 1329. So I put a smear of this on an unabraded, unclean bit of the soil pipe:

 

20170221_193939

 

20170221_194014

 

Left for a while and it certainly seemed to have "eaten" into the surface a bit:

 

20170221_193923

 

The brown soil seems maybe a little looser in a couple of the grey Heoworth females of one type in the pics above but not so loose in two of another Hepworth component (not shown).

 

I'll try and video what I mean.

 

Just load with adhesive?

 

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23 minutes ago, ProDave said:

The brown is the underground stuff.  I await someone (not me) coming to tell you it must only be used underground........
 

 

@Nickfromwales says above that it'll be OK but it just "feels" different to me compared to the grey Hepworth fittings even though both are pvc-u though to different BS  EN numbers. The grey tbh and from memory grey 110mm pipe generally seems more "brittle" a la Airfix type plastic. The fit is what's worrying me now.

 

I don't need to tell YOU about plastic pipe issues I'm sure! :)

 

There I was happily going the push fit route when someone dared me to go solvent weld.....:ph34r:

 

Be a bitch to get that brown soil out now though!

 

 

Edited by Onoff
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2 minutes ago, PeterW said:

It's fine - crack on ..! Terracotta uPVC isn't stabilised for UV as much as the black / grey stuff but if it's boxed in and covered from the sun just get on with it ... 

 

Wait till you see the slop in the grey fitting  (if the video ever uploads).  

 

Maybe I'm being over cautious?

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The solvent is the same for PVC of all flavours, and the cleaning agent is MEK (methyl ethyl ketone).  Cheaper to buy MEK in litre or 5 litre cans than buy the branded cleaner.

 

EDITED TO ADD:

You can thicken up standard solvent cement by adding ground up PVC to it.  Takes a bit of time to dissolve but works OK.

Edited by JSHarris
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23 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Use this for sloppy joints.

Sorry for the late heads up :ph34r:

 

They can FO if they think I'm paying a fiver then £25 for delivery for a tube! :(

 

It's nearly £12 on eBay:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Polypipe-GFC100-Gap-Filling-Cement-/252744423830?hash=item3ad8bdd996:g:UiUAAOSw0fhXjjVZ

 

So.....would a wrap or two of good quality PVC leccy tape "melt" into any gap? Just a thought!

 

EDIT: Went with the eBay one.

Edited by Onoff
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