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Posted

Nice beer? Saw it lurking there.

 

Aldi are doing Double Dragon for £1.25 a bottle - imagine Nick was virtually weaned onto this stuff.  Too far east from home for me to enjoy it - only realised this when I finished my second one last night.

 

CC

  • Like 1
Posted

Centreline of loo roll holder at 26" from finished floor seems to be the norm. Does this sound about right?

Posted (edited)
  On 04/12/2016 at 22:33, CC45 said:

Nice beer? Saw it lurking there.

 

Aldi are doing Double Dragon for £1.25 a bottle - imagine Nick was virtually weaned onto this stuff.  Too far east from home for me to enjoy it - only realised this when I finished my second one last night.

 

CC

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Old Hoppy Hen that...Co-op, 3 for a fiver. Got a cloudy wheat beer called Franziskaner and a Hobgoblin too.

 

EDIT: Wonder if my local Aldi does that Double Dragon...further than Lidl but I fancy trying it.

Edited by Onoff
Posted

Nice beer? Saw it lurking there.

 

Aldi are doing Double Dragon for £1.25 a bottle - imagine Nick was virtually weaned onto this stuff.  Too far east from home for me to enjoy it - only realised this when I finished my second one last night.

 

CC

Posted (edited)

This Geberit wall frame.....bought "open box" and I've "misplaced" the fitting instructions! Tried navigating the Geberit site with about as much luck as @ProDave on CPC. 

 

It's a 111.292.00.1 btw.

 

As it's "old" (bought new, unused but secondhand) is there anything I should replace as a matter of course? Can't remember over on eBuild whether it was some Geberit or Grohe units suffered from "brittle" seals. 

 

(Just bought a flush plate for it for £34 off of eBay). 

 

Cheers

Edited by Onoff
Posted
  On 05/12/2016 at 08:49, Nickfromwales said:

Relax chief, the one you have is bombproof ?

Do you have the 80ish mm half round clip that holds the soil connector onto the metal frame?

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Erm...

 

SAM_3420

 

I can see for a start I may need to chop the soil back and use a flexi... :ph34r:

Posted

Found some old pics on a USB stick. The old wc where the wet room corner is now going and the doorway i blocked up where the new wall hung wc is going.

 

P1210068

 

Posted (edited)

At long last it's decided we're going with the taps to the wall. This will make the pump motor more inaccessible. The logic is that we will very likely need (want?) to replace the taps. The pump motor "might" give up. Access too is a big decider. Having gone to all the trouble to cast the pocket in the slab so the bath floor is level with the bathroom floor it seems silly to put taps in the way of swinging your legs over. Cost too is there as in we're going to use what we've bought!

 

So this will be the final configuration:

 

SAM_4308

 

I've gone for one of the kits that make the taps easily removable. Basically a st/st boss fits into the bath then the tap(s) fit into that. With flexi pipe on the taps a quick Allen key job sees you lifting the taps out.

 

SAM_4295

 

You then add the adapter top part to the tap. Slip it over the bosses on the bath and tighten the Allen screw that engages with the groove on the boss:

 

SAM_4299

 

SAM_4300

 

You can see how the flexi pipes will attach to the taps and pass up through the boss for removal:

 

SAM_4301

 

This shows the tap on the left with the adaptor and on the right "standard" they make the tap sit a bit higher overall by about 10mm:

 

SAM_4293

 

I had to enlarge the hole in the bath with my homemade "2 in 1" Starrett adapter, scary in case I slipped

 

2016-12-08_10-17-14

 

It's 2mm over on the OD:

 

SAM_4297

 

The main issue I have is where the adapter bosses sit. On the underside its not that level so there's gaps under the nut. So looks OK:

 

SAM_4305

 

But from another angle:

 

SAM_4306

 

Not sure on the fix.....cut some rubber for washers or just plenty of CT1 and leave to set?

 

Cheers

Edited by Onoff
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

 lenght of pipe ( say 1 or 2" long) with one end cut at an angle?

Edited by Temp
Posted
  On 08/12/2016 at 23:20, Temp said:

 lenght of pipe ( say 1 or 2" long) with one end cut at an angle?

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It's not that it's an angled face as such it's more that it's not parallel to the finished face where the taps are. That and the fact the matting build up means it's not flat .

 

Wouldn't have been as much of an issue of just the taps were on with no boss / adapter as the standard tap nut is that much smaller.

 

The more I think about it the more inclined I am to just overdose the assembly with CT1, do the nut up as tight as and wipe off the excess (top side) with a baby wipe. That should stop the nut ever moving too.

Posted

Maybe chamfer the nuts to better suit the mating surface, then plenty of Sikaflex not CT1 ( better adhesive imho ), and turn the inserts down into the washers so the profiling stays as needed and the inserts get rotated rather than the nuts?

Posted
  On 08/12/2016 at 23:53, Nickfromwales said:

Maybe chamfer the nuts to better suit the mating surface, then plenty of Sikaflex not CT1 ( better adhesive imho ), and turn the inserts down into the washers so the profiling stays as needed and the inserts get rotated rather than the nuts?

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Tbh I don't fancy chamfering the (st/st) nuts. I'd be putting point loads around the hole...

 

...current thought that came to me in the night, is as the bosses are so long I should Starrett a rectangular piece of marine ply with two holes at the required centres and bond that on first (I'll use Sikaflex ta). I'll make a large, 2 hole, st/st washer to match. Should spread the load better around the mounting area and bring the nuts down lower where I can get better purchase on them to tighten.

Posted
  On 09/12/2016 at 06:22, Onoff said:

 

Tbh I don't fancy chamfering the (st/st) nuts. I'd be putting point loads around the hole...

 

...current thought that came to me in the night, is as the bosses are so long I should Starrett a rectangular piece of marine ply with two holes at the required centres and bond that on first (I'll use Sikaflex ta). I'll make a large, 2 hole, st/st washer to match. Should spread the load better around the mounting area and bring the nuts down lower where I can get better purchase on them to tighten.

Expand  

Good idea. :)

CT1 has its place, but not the better choice here. ;). Lightly sand the area with 80grit, clean with meths and smear the surface with sikaflex immediately prior to completing the install. That'll ensure max contact and adhesion. 

Posted
  On 09/12/2016 at 06:57, daiking said:

Looks like you'll be sorted in time for Christmas.

 

2018...

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Gotta sand and varnish the ply box in the floor and paint the concrete under the bath before then.....

Posted
  On 09/12/2016 at 07:05, Ferdinand said:

 

Are you sure this won't be like St Paul's and completed by his children?

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Don't! I've not even thought about the domed ceiling yet. Need the bath installed so I can stand on it to do all the High Renaissance artwork. ;)

 

Seriously though, I must get onto Rapid later to order some by the meter screened flex so as to extend the control wiring.

  • Like 1
Posted

So to get a "level" thickness to clamp the tap adapters down:

 

I first wrapped the adapters in insulating tape to take up any slack yet still be flexible. Put it "two rubber washers" down so as not to impede the clamping process. For a worrying minute I thought I might have to use blue and BROWN until I found an old reel of red! ;)

 

20161210_132541

 

20161210_132944

 

Cut a bit of marine ply (then sanded and routed a radius on all edges)::

 

20161210_113240

 

And a bit of stainless from an old kick plate (btw this killed the 38mm Erbauer hole saw):

 

2016-12-10_12-48-17

 

A couple of 3mm packs at the back stuck on with mitre bond:

 

20161210_142918

 

Putting the share price up of Sikaflex:

 

20161210_143051

 

Abraded and cleaned with meths (why not Multisolve or white spirit?). All feeling nice and solid, the nuts up tight against the stainless plate. When the Sikaflex is dry I'll tweak up the nuts:

 

20161210_143445

 

2016-12-10_02-45-32

 

  • Like 3
Posted (edited)
  On 10/12/2016 at 14:59, Onoff said:

 

For a worrying minute I thought I might have to use blue and BROWN until I found an old reel of red! ;)

 

 

Abraded and cleaned with meths (why not Multisolve or white spirit?).

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So I should think!!

 

White spirit leaves an oily residue, meths doesn't.

 

Looking good by the way, my other half can't believe what you've done.

 

Edited by PeterStarck
Posted

I know it's a bit late now but when you had to enlarge the holes in the bath, if you'd made a jig the same as the piece of ply you've put underneath, you could have clamped that onto the top of the bath and then no danger of the hole cutter slipping.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
  On 10/12/2016 at 15:57, PeterStarck said:

 

So I should think!!

 

White spirit leaves an oily residue, meths doesn't.

 

Looking good by the way, my other half can't believe what you've done.

 

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Ta. You'll never see the insulating tape again but I'll know it's there!

 

Get your missus to phone mine please. Mine can't believe what HASN'T BEEN DONE! :)

 

Anyway, running the Pex-Al-Pex for the towel rad through the dwarf wall now. Not easy so the home brew decoiler is making a reappearance.

 

2016-12-10_05-29-02

 

Having to lay on the floor and turn it with one foot whilst dragging the pipe through the studs then round the next corner and through the next lot of holes to where the rad's going. Just realised I could do with being 18" taller...

Edited by Onoff
Posted
  On 10/12/2016 at 16:12, RichS said:

I know it's a bit late now but when you had to enlarge the holes in the bath, if you'd made a jig the same as the piece of ply you've put underneath, you could have clamped that onto the top of the bath and then no danger of the hole cutter slipping.

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Look, I get very little excitement in my life so the adrenaline rush from taking chances like this is welcome! ;)

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