Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework

[Nickfromwales]

'Tis good ?

[Onoff]

Dancing as I do from one topic to another.....I have to make this corner behind the plaster board and bring two pipes out for the towel rail (rad if she gets her way ) Shown a couple of bits of scrap copper as the radiator tails.

 

Even with the wedge taken out it's pretty tight without putting elbows in within the wall.

 

 

 

 

 

Behind the  batten is a max of 30mm space. Not really enough to get any insuation round the pipes. I could drill through the timber and bring the pipes through. That would at least allow me 50mm or so PIR behind the pipes. Or do I bend up some fancy copper lengths just to get me round the corner and risk straight connectors to the plastic pipes within the dwarf wall?

Edited November 7, 2016 by Onoff

[Onoff]

Result.....ish, though I'll no doubt pay for it later! I said to her tonight "we" need to decide on either a towel rail or radiator. Her words were and I quote:

 

"Well I'd like a radiator but you want a towel rail!"

 

I said again I thought a rad would look old fashioned to which I got:

 

"We haven't got the room under the window, can't we lay it in it's side?"

 

When I looked perplexed she said:

 

"Well they go up don't they!"

 

Seriously, she's so blinkered against them she thinks there's only one style FFS! We ended with:

 

"I just want something under the window that'll dry towels!"

 

FFS IT'S CALLED A TOWEL RAIL!!!

 

So.....probably something like this 600h x 1000w:

 

https://www.flush-bathrooms.co.uk/phoenix-zonta-600-x-1000-polished-ss-radiator-ra320?utm_source=Google+&utm_medium=PLA&utm_campaign=PPC&gclid=CLS-5tCNmtACFQw4Gwod1KkCyQ

 

Should fit just right under the window:

 

 

 

Is that a good price as she's carping about it?

 

And.....can I feed it from two 16mm Pex-Al-Pex pipes taken back to the manifold? Figuring I'll have to have a couple of elbows hidden in the wall!

[Construction Channel]

at the risk of stirring the pot, What you linked is technically called a radiator.... you could win both ways 

[Onoff]

25 minutes ago, Construction Channel said:

at the risk of stirring the pot, What you linked is technically called a radiator.... you could win both ways 

 

Win? You're not married yet are you?

 

Actually you've done me a favour pointing this out. I'm going to start referring to it as a designer radiator.....a sort of halfway house and drop the "towel" reference. She's looking at that same style on eBay so is maybe secretly keen!

Edited November 8, 2016 by Onoff

[Construction Channel]

I'm still blissfully engaged  

[MikeSharp01]

48 minutes ago, Construction Channel said:

I'm still blissfully engaged

I dimly remember that. In my day, my first mobile phone was still several years away and I was one of the first 1500 people in the UK to own one, engagement was like getting a bike for Easter and not being able to ride it until Christmas. There were highlights though - Saturdays spent in Heals choosing furniture (most of which we still have), dropping into Peter Jones to choose a 'dinner service' - some of which we still have, commissioning the rings - both of which we still have, evenings dancing at the Ritz, the sanctity of ones club - Malden and District Society of model engineers, booking the venue - Woolwich town hall - not so trendy then, making the bed - I mean carpentry, 'weekends maintaining our independence', 'weekends being Mr and Mrs smith'. Through all of it however I cannot recall any discussions about towel rails or the definition of a radiator. I don't know, the youth of today...

[Onoff]

Thinking these Fischer hammer in insulation fixings might be the answer to my problem of how to fix the 27mm insulated plaster board to the reveal:

 

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+%26+Fixings/d90/Fixing+Packs/sd3310/Fischer+DIPK+Insulation+Render+Fixing/p77867

 

Never used them before. I presume the 10-30 refers to the thickness of whatever you're fixing. Hopefully they won't protrude such that it'll interfere with the tile adhesive. 

 

Thinking stick the DPM to the reveal with contact adhesive, run a few thin lines of something sticky on the face of the DPM then push the boards on and secure with these?

[Construction Channel]

it appears our engagement times are not that similar. Im with you on the "making the bed part" but thats about it  

[Onoff]

Took off the nasty (mitre bonded?) trim with an old wood chisel. MASSIVE GAPS! 20mm plus along the top, sides vary between about 3 and 8mm. Figure the best thing is fire in some Soudal expanding foam  (the ordinary expanding type) and just keep the window shut till it sets. Then just before I push the insulated plasterboard on I can run a line of decent silicon along it.

 

 

 

 

 

[PeterW]

That's ordinary fitting tolerance for most DG companies .... 

[Onoff]

22 minutes ago, PeterW said:

That's ordinary fitting tolerance for most DG companies .... 

 

It's an eye opener for me and tbh I only even looked as this juncture because of what I've learnt on here. Makes a mockery of the whole concept of "double glazing". I can imagine DG fitters on a price doing the same with TRIPLE glazing

 

As I say making the best of a bad job!

 

Foaming around the window just now makes the gale coming up through the cavity even more noticeable! I masked the edges with tape so I can cut it level when set:

 

 

Edited November 9, 2016 by Onoff

[Barney12]

15 hours ago, PeterW said:

That's ordinary fitting tolerance for most DG companies .... 

 

Indeed. Now let me show you a "proper" gap from our place:

The piece of timber you can see was to support the plasterboard, its was completely loose. Oh and yes that is the ground floor and that gap below the lintel was also behind the plasterboard. the lintel has about 20mm supported, JUST!

I don't have a picture of the outside but the gap was covered by a circa 3" wide piece of uPVC trim.

 

 

[Onoff]

@daiking - 1

@Onoff    - 0

 

[daiking]

37 minutes ago, Onoff said:

@daiking - 1

@Onoff    - 0

 

 

I don't understand.

 

That happens a lot.

[Onoff]

3 minutes ago, daiking said:

 

I don't understand.

 

That happens a lot.

 

You WIN! Your gap's bigger than mine!

[daiking]

4 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

You WIN! Your gap's bigger than mine!

 

Should have gone to specsavers, its @Barney12 gap, not mine.

 

Where I win is that I can now ignore sure fripperies as window gaps because I know I'd be better off burning it down than trying to fix.

 

[Onoff]

1 hour ago, daiking said:

 

Should have gone to specsavers, its @Barney12 gap, not mine.

 

Where I win is that I can now ignore sure fripperies as window gaps because I know I'd be better off burning it down than trying to fix.

 

 

I looked at the picture rather than who posted it and as it wasn't mine thought it must be yours!

 

I've been putting off my eye test. I don't need any help to see how bad mine all is.

[Barney12]

"There is none so blind as those who do not want to see"  

[Onoff]

I'm hesitant to fill this cavity with EPS beads tbh. It's pretty "compromised" down the bottom with debris anyway and there's lumps of brick and mortar here and there bridging the cavity. Worried I'll be causing myself future problems?

[Onoff]

Spot the novelty wall ties:

 

 

The render the original sill had been bedded down on was so loose it basically lifted off revealing them.

 

The cavity closers appear to be strips of, now rusty, corrugated iron:

 

 

I'm debating the merit of cutting a couple of nom. 200mm deep 25mm thick, EPS strips and putting them across the width of this cavity. Then filling in between with expanding (low expansion?) foam. Thoughts?

 

 

[Onoff]

Asked on another post about the min rad of Pex-Al Pex pipe. After a bit of experimentation the questions possibly irrelevant tbh. 80mm rad seems most appropriate measured to the inside of the pipe bend. That'd get me around the internal corner OK with minimal channeling out of the Celotex:

 

 

BUT.....trying to bring an r80mm bend along and out through the plasterboard (20mm hole drilled) is a non starter:

 

 

The plasterboard won't sit flush against the studs. Having the pipe on the slant would look appalling. It needs to be perpendicular to the wall. Thinking copper now, at least round into the dwarf wall then a 15 to 16mm straight joint behind an accessible panel / removable (breakable?) tile.

 

 

Going to have to fit some sort of elbow which I was trying to avoid.

 

The next question was going to be can I affix 16mm UFH pipe to a radiator!

[Nickfromwales]

3 hours ago, Onoff said:

The next question was going to be can I affix 16mm UFH pipe to a radiator!

Nope. 

Quick search found this ,

 

Thats about as good as it gets, but with the added bonus of the compression side being able to accept chromed 15mm pipe, so the exposed stuff can be nice and shiny to match the 'radiator'. 

Then straight into these ??

[Nickfromwales]

Bingo

[Onoff]

Cheers @Nickfromwales. I was looking at similar myself but that still puts a compression joint in an inaccessible place behind the tiled wall and behind/under the radiator. From the same seller I've found these straight 16/15 couplers:

 

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/COMPRESSION-ADAPTER-REDUCER-COPPER-x-PLASTIC-16mm-x-15mm-pipe-/131271352568?var=430551659381&hash=item1e9061e0f8%3Am%3Am2V2jydUBoxQHhYO3dwtxhA&_trkparms=pageci%3A4d48e681-a7d3-11e6-b1ac-74dbd180b28a%7Cparentrq%3A51f38d771580a6a5ca233ebcfffdf6cd%7Ciid%3A3&varId=430551659381

 

I could as I said go with copper from the rad tails, along the wall and round the corner to behind a "knockout" tile or even at the end of the bath as there'll be an access panel there. Can't see though that even a copper bend coming out the wall to the rad will be tight enough.....

 

Lucky I don't do this for a living!

 

I'll get a couple of elbows and straight couplers to have a play.

 

Edited November 11, 2016 by Onoff