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Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework


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They're only ever going to be at =/< 2 bar so I'd not panic too much about 2 compression joints behind the rad, I've done it hundreds of times converting copper to chrome via compression bends or couplers. 

Ive had more immediate failures with soldered joints than compression tbh. Famous last words :ph34r: 

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7 hours ago, CC45 said:

Thinner insulation just behind the pipe & drill hole further back?

 

CC

Could do. Was trying to get as much on that wall, well, 50mm min tapering to about 100mm the other end of the wall at the wet room corner. The bottom of this cavity wall has so much debris in you could call it rubble filled/solid!

 

Have a look on page 4 of this thread, I'm a past master at veeing out insulation to take pipes! :)

 

Not too worried about having chrome pipes as chrome effect covers are available.

 

http://m.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=Chrome+pipe+covers&isNewKw=1&isRefine=true&mfs=GOCLK&acimp=0&_trksid=p2056088.m2428.l1313.TR3.TRC1.Xchrome+pipe+covers&sqp=chrome+pipe+covers

Edited by Onoff
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3 hours ago, Onoff said:

I've never heard that before. Cheers. Never used chromed copper tbh...

 

So chrome is much harder than copper and the retaining "teeth" in most push fits can't bite into it to retain the pipe correctly. Only real choice is clean it off with emery paper but watch you don't create too rough a surface. 

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A bit of gap filling with some 50mm EPS. Only 200mm deep until it hits the first ties. A line of low expansion foam one side then popped it down the cavity and properly dosed the side between the EPS and outer leaf. That should fill the gap nicely.

 

20161112_140158

 

I'm going to infill atop the line of blocks with strong mortar levelled to the stud batten. I'll then trim the foam flush. Should give me a decent base to fix/stick my DPM all round the reveal. I WILL banish these draughts! :)

 

BUT....

 

I knew I had to revisit the batten fixings under the window but where everything has dried out they're as loose as the video below shows:

 

20161112_141311

 

The concrete screws used to affix the battens haven't moved. The solution:

 

20161112_141823

 

Edited by Onoff
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Multisolve.....seriously what makes it "magic"? Spray on and it smells / feels greasy then it's just.....GONE!

 

I've been cleaning old bits of DPM with it and sticking to the reveals. Like s*** to a blanket!

 

20161113_144625

 

20161113_145031

 

 

 

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47 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

In fairness, that's looking like one well engineered, meticulously executed bathroom. B|.

Très bein, Rodney.  

 

Ta. Losing it a bit with the plasterboard and warped timbers. I reckon I'm at about +/-2mm tolerance wise to the CAD drawing it's all based on.

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Hmm...to go square or not?

 

Got the insulated plasterboard on the sill. Sikaflex round all 4 edges then a good zig zag of low expansion foam in the middle. All level and weighted down:

 

BUT...doing the sides of the reveal and the piece on the rhs kicks in by about 8mm at the back. Tbh it's nice and in line with the upvc frame. I can't see it'll mean anything else other than cutting a tile stop the sill.

 

20161116_174659

 

If I try and bring it out to the line I'll have a big hollow at the back of the insulated plasterboard. I'm looking for a good contact area as I'm foaming it to the blue DPM  that lines the reveal.

 

Any thoughts?

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Went with my gut! Scuffed the DPM with 60 grit paper then cleaned with Multi Solve. Sikaflex round the edges then Soudal low exp. foam in the middle and a few packs. (Second side was neater). Held the board on with a few strategically placed bricks and wedges.

 

20161116_183831

 

Happy with the "panel gaps", i.e the board line in relation to the UPVC lines:

 

20161116_195845

 

 

 

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7 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

That's mighty close to the glazing bead, have you checked it for a tile + adhesive?

 

Put bluntly, no! :o

 

EDIT: Measured with bleary eyes this morning and it's 9-10mm from the face of the plaster board to the glazing bead line. All I can do I guess is set the trims round the reveal so I get a tapered bed of adhesive down to "nothing" at the back with 8mm tiles.

 

You know how you learnt (learning?) me plumbing.....well wait for the numpty tiling questions! :)

 

BUT...no draughts! So worth the hassle.

Edited by Onoff
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