Extension- Last Stuff.

[ProDave]

2 minutes ago, PeterW said:

 

Assuming @ProDave has decent double frame either side then the fixings are holding his jamb back. 

I am not sure how i got included but my door frames are well and truly secured firmly to the very solid timber frame, with plenty of packers to keep them solid and straight.

 

And yes if I took the headers off, the doors would not be bothered.

[joe90]

Yes a header can help if fixings are not very good on the verticals.

[zoothorn]

35 minutes ago, joe90 said:

So that vertical timber is where you are putting your door frame?, how is it fixed to the wall? Does the insulation go behind this timber? Do me a little sketch of what’s there in section.

 

Well yes the door is sheduled to go here.. but do I have solid enough timber in these verticals either side? they don't really fix to anything apart from the old adjacent room pB: they've just been stuffed in as quickest way to create the knock thru as 'finished' afaict. I do have the block lower 1/3rd area: the timber attatched to this.. I hope is better. Even attatching frame to the block.. but above there's only PIR tho.

 

Tbh I cant recall exactly what's in section here. I thought I'd taken more pics than I have.

 

If the vertical timbers look solid as Peter might think, they're not really. But if the frame only needs minimal structure here, & the door pressures all are taken up by the frame's joints top & sides, then it might be ok. But who am i to judge this is the thing.

[joe90]

What size is the timber on the wall?

[zoothorn]

Not sure if this is going to help see what the header area actually is under the pB strip.. but maybe gives an idea of what builder's done?

[zoothorn]

[zoothorn]

[zoothorn]

[zoothorn]

20 minutes ago, joe90 said:

What size is the timber on the wall?

 

Hi Joe- if you mean the vertical bit attatched to the brick, 2ft away from hinge line? 2x1? (this is the pic with the joists exposed).

 

The best idea of what's going on on this hinge side, is both pics looking at this angle, one with joists exposed.. & the later one where Ive packed in PIR bits between the timber. Apologies its far from ideal to establish what's been done.

 

There's an empty box/ void going on immediately behind the side PIR sheet.. well a well insulated box/ void, the btm of which is a block shelf top as it were.

[joe90]

3 hours ago, zoothorn said:

Hi Joe- if you mean the vertical bit attatched to the brick, 2ft away from hinge line? 2x1? (this is the pic with the joists exposed).

no, the vertical piece of timber, floor to ceiling where you want the hinges to go!!!! How is this piece fixed to the wall, what size timber is it? 2x4, 3x2 ??? Your door frame is going to be fixed to this so we need to know if it’s strong enough to do the job!

[zoothorn]

11 hours ago, joe90 said:

no, the vertical piece of timber, floor to ceiling where you want the hinges to go!!!! How is this piece fixed to the wall, what size timber is it? 2x4, 3x2 ??? Your door frame is going to be fixed to this so we need to know if it’s strong enough to do the job!

 

This is what I was trying to explain. Ok this piece where I want hinges to go, is attatched only to two horizontal bits of stud, & to both pB's at the corner (I whacked a load of pB screws into it from the old pB side, as well as a good few into it from my 'tunnel pB' side.. to sure this timber vertical piece up best I could knowing I maybe putting a door in). Also its held in by soudal foam to the PIR.. but that n/a I'm sure.

 

I can't think that even if both pB's removed/ the timber piece exposed, it could be replaced with anything.. unless a new vertical is fixed instead here attatched to the floor -and also- to some point high above (but I think only slate felt/ slates directly above here: its within the old wall area you see, so no ceiling/ loft xyx structure).

 

I'm pretty sure Ive been left high & dry by builder here.. prolly just for me to put 'door on low step open into room' , even tho he knew it can't, bc of the ceiling intrusion/ shape, due to the whole damn thing being 1ft lower than it should be.. specifically & crucially my primary concern being the old ceiling H relative to new ceiling H: the entrance-in area specifically. This is what I was stressing so correctly (I think) about -whilst- it was built, but I was fobbed off & dismissed not only by the builder, but also the good folks on here siding with him hollering at me its "as it should be/ as it could only be made!!".

 

Now maybe they can see my point to demanding it -had- to be made to the plan (I was blackmailed during build & I said 'right stop please/ I need answers why' & builder refused to explain, got angry threatening to pull everyone off/ walk off, nastily: I'll always resent this). Ive never been in sush a stressed state in my life/ appalling. And so then I ask on here for support. And everyone hollers at me & sides with him. I was in a depression for remainder of build, worried what the repercussions would be: turns out many & they were just, & I'll say it till cows come home: just as I thought: this knock-thru area/ door being the biggest problem its left me).

 

If the build had the collars I was promised, on the plan he told me to make, & saw & agreed to (saying a v.good plan/ nothing suggesting it would be different, let alone a full 1ft difference in floor & ceiling positions, both rooms) so as to push this top ceiling up 1 ft.. I would be putting the door where it should be: fixed to solid corners opening into the new room.

 

The ceiling trusses did not have the collars. Well, specifically no collars on --both-- sides: as it is its been compromised by having a collar on only --one-- side, meaning the ceiling isn't pushed up enough. As soon as I saw the collars I sprinted out measuring xyz abc.. scratching my head thinking its 1ft lower, it defo is.. "it'll be fine" he says.. "builder knows best, you don't, its correct!!" I'm told on here.

 

 

[joe90]

We all know of your problems with the builder so let’s leave that, or you will get an ulcer!!!.
 

RIGHT, if it were me I would make my own frame from 130mm x 40mm planned square edge (or as near as you can), screwed to the upright timbers, remove plasterboard behind these if you wish but not necessary IMO. Verticals up to the ceiling Then tight fit top piece between them. (This will help stop hinges pulling frame away from the wall). Build your own “plank “ door and fit then buy 40mm x 15mm door stops and fit them to the door afterwards. Quick CAD drawing (crayon assisted drawing).

 

 

[PeterW]

I’m with @joe90, just let go to what has gone on. You will make yourself ill if you don’t. 
 

If you are up for making a door - and we’ve seen some of your woodwork so you’re perfectly capable - then the frame can be made to fit and as strong as possible. It will essentially be self supporting so what’s behind is irrelevant. 
 

One question - have you now got building control sign off on this as it stands ..?? Just thinking about that door and the steps.  

[zoothorn]

1 hour ago, PeterW said:

I’m with @joe90, just let go to what has gone on. You will make yourself ill if you don’t. 
 

If you are up for making a door - and we’ve seen some of your woodwork so you’re perfectly capable - then the frame can be made to fit and as strong as possible. It will essentially be self supporting so what’s behind is irrelevant. 
 

One question - have you now got building control sign off on this as it stands ..?? Just thinking about that door and the steps.  

 

@joe90 I get your drawing- cheers alot. I guess 1st one is perp. Yes I know about the ulcer.. but you see its kinda a bit 'told y'all so' that I just needed to get off me chest tbh, what with yous all hollerin at me!! (I doubt you were joe.. you seem too calm for that).

 

Ok line under this, if of course I can get a frame in as it is. Yes I'm up for making a door. Great this is what I was hoping to hear "it's essentially self-supporting so what's behind irrelevant"! terrific.

 

No I not yet signed off PeterW. All elec bumf sent to BC tho. I'm not sure when it could or can be signed off. I dont know if my rads put in before both rooms finished c*ck this signing-off up (had no choice/ they said 'next week install it is'). Or whether my steps, or door position like you allude to c*cks it up either. I just had to crack on.

[zoothorn]

@PeterW do you think I can ask for it to be signed off now? even if top room skirt & door not quite done, & Ive chucked all me tools in lower room using in a temporary way: this room's done.

 

Does it have to be all spik & span for BC for final sign off day, tie on, an earl grey & hob nob job?

[joe90]

2 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

what with yous all hollerin at me!!

No one is hollerin at you, weird sense of humour maybe! You have had lots of support despite your lack of confidence so crack on mate ?

[PeterW]

2 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

@PeterW do you think I can ask for it to be signed off now? even if top room skirt & door not quite done, & Ive chucked all me tools in lower room using in a temporary way: this room's done.

 

Does it have to be all spik & span for BC for final sign off day, tie on, an earl grey & hob nob job?

Nope just has to be done as per plans, and you need the electrical certificate. I’d leave the door off for now and get them to sign off. 
 

My BCO is more of an Assam fan and dark chocolate digestives .. but that’s just as he’s private not council ..!

[zoothorn]

Just now, joe90 said:

No one is hollerin at you, weird sense of humour maybe! You have had lots of support despite your lack of confidence so crack on mate ?

 

Not now, during my fretting during build I mean (11 months ago, jeepers).

 

I cannot fault the support, my goodness on the contrary/ I'm not criticising this/ how could I (but that wasn't support when I was raving about me builder.. it was hollerin at me already!! :-)

 

Anyway I hope to rid this infernal problem once this door done. Final job too! thx zH

[zoothorn]

5 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Nope just has to be done as per plans, and you need the electrical certificate. I’d leave the door off for now and get them to sign off. 
 

My BCO is more of an Assam fan and dark chocolate digestives .. but that’s just as he’s private not council ..!

 

Ah just remembered. My one bad decision of the build: adding the balcony, yet to even consider (might leave to pro.. but then again, if I made my cabin base.. hmm/ next year anyway now). my other faux pas was having doors opening out: if I chose inwards, I could now put a juliet balc on > get signed off, & save £2k. Bit off more than I can chew. Oh well balc gotta be done, b4 sign off, will look fab once its made tho.

 

Is there any timeframe it has to be signed off? I hope to goodness it ain't 1 year..

[PeterW]

7 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

 

Is there any timeframe it has to be signed off? I hope to goodness it ain't 1 year..

no

 

some councils close the file after 3 years and ask for a small fee to reopen but there is no time limit 

[zoothorn]

1 minute ago, PeterW said:

no

 

some councils close the file after 3 years and ask for a small fee to reopen but there is no time limit 

 

Great.

 

can you sign it off for me Peter?

[PeterW]

Just now, zoothorn said:

 

Great.

 

can you sign it off for me Peter?

ha ha ha ha ..!  No ..!! 
 

Out of interest where is the door shown on the plans and what’s the distance from the back edge of the wall (where the door will go) to the front edge of the top step..?

[zoothorn]

bugger.

 

390mm. Well on plans its shown within the room as it were, skimming the carpet, 1900mm H. But I do admit I forgot to include a side view plan (gives builder a loophole, but even so shown on face-on view to skim carpet & @ 1.9m, so couldn't be up on either step).

 

So this will differ to plan. Not my fault/ no choice but put it where its going instead. I hadn't considered whether this might c*ck up BC. Will he even notice should I ply him with whisky & nob hobbery?

[ProDave]

33 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

Ah just remembered. My one bad decision of the build: adding the balcony, yet to even consider (might leave to pro.. but then again, if I made my cabin base.. hmm/ next year anyway now). my other faux pas was having doors opening out: if I chose inwards, I could now put a juliet balc on > get signed off, & save £2k. Bit off more than I can chew. Oh well balc gotta be done, b4 sign off, will look fab once its made tho.

 

Is there any timeframe it has to be signed off? I hope to goodness it ain't 1 year..

I discussed this with our BCO recently.

 

If we don't immediately build our balcony, an acceptable solution to BCO would be to fit banister type handrails across the inside of the door opening (it is an outward opening door).  the door is currently locked and the handle removed so you can't open it.

 

 

[zoothorn]

2 minutes ago, ProDave said:

I discussed this with our BCO recently.

 

If we don't immediately build our balcony, an acceptable solution to BCO would be to fit banister type handrails across the inside of the door opening (it is an outward opening door).  the door is currently locked and the handle removed so you can't open it.

 

 

 

 That's interesting- I'll call mine & see. Do you think this is maybe a personal decision by each BCO tho? mine mentioned 'you need to get balc done soon' inspecting midway thru once doors just in. I said keys in a drawer downstairs, so not poss to open. He then tried the handle.. & it opened. oops.

 

I guess a balc tho, esp mine being quite a bit more than just a small addition, needs its handrails/ height/ structure all signed off too tho: how would you get around this? would he come back & sign this bit off later?