Extension- Last Stuff.

[Onoff]

17 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Ah ok. So if i got a 5mm gap running along my boxing.. this stuff not for here then, what instead ?

 

 

 

Assuming it's acrylic sealant? At 5mm you might see it shrink and slump a bit so as said do in two hits.

[zoothorn]

36 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Well done mate, looks really good, yes wobbly walls are a pain, that’s what filler is for.

 

cheers!

 

yes but this was like a 3" gap putting a length of skirt along, meaning bed pushed twds french doors more, and alot of filler. If I banana'd it & fixed it in = too much pressure & it might suddenly give & fire a mouse at my '78 fender twin reverb at 4am. This stupid skirt bit had 3/4" of filler put in its gaps alone today. carpet chaps not gonna be happy. but your twiddly skirt additions.. he's gonna be livid when he sees those!

[zoothorn]

36 minutes ago, PeterW said:

You may get away with 5mm but I would do it in two goes. First fill and wipe with a baby wipe so it is below the surface of the gap, then when that is dry do another layer. 

 

 Only prob is this boxing gap's not got anything under this far edge.. a 1st fill smaller than 5mm will just fall in.

 

Or are you suggesting fill with something else 1st just below surface > then caulk bead ontop?

[Onoff]

12 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

 Only prob is this boxing gap's not got anything under this far edge.. a 1st fill smaller than 5mm will just fall in.

 

Or are you suggesting fill with something else 1st just below surface > then caulk bead ontop?

 

VERY carefully you could get some low expansion foam down there first or even some other foam rubber you could push down before caulking. 

[PeterW]

Cut the end of the tube to about 8mm and force it to push into the gap, scrape the top flat and then wipe with a baby wipe. 
 

It may sag a little but if that’s 12-15mm thick timber it won’t drop out. Then go over it again when it’s dry. 

[joe90]

22 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

yes but this was like a 3" gap putting a length of skirt along,

yes, they don’t build them like they used to ?( thank god), only way to get straight skirting on that is a 3” piece added to top of skirting (like your boxing in around pipes) and scribe it to the wall (cut it wiggle to the profile of the wall).

[zoothorn]

1 hour ago, joe90 said:

yes, they don’t build them like they used to ?( thank god), only way to get straight skirting on that is a 3” piece added to top of skirting (like your boxing in around pipes) and scribe it to the wall (cut it wiggle to the profile of the wall).

 

actually that's something I could have maybe done! I rather like the scribing lark/ very satisfying.. but too late now. it does sound like a ballache mind you with such a thin piece, prolly 2" in fact, & losing the space in bed position.

 

Another satisfying job- caulking! @PeterW good idea cutting the 8mm end/ I think I might get away with one go with this, tmrw, waiting on paint to dry 1st.

 

So onto my last job: the door frame. Going over info now. I think it might be wiser ask carpetter to come back & do the steps end of week (a separate piece anyway).. I'm pushing getting frame in, plus the trim bits, & 2x painting it before tues. Then panic is off, I can get stuff into the room tues PM.. that'll spur me on to get the frame done.

 

cheers- zH

[zoothorn]

3 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

Assuming it's acrylic sealant? At 5mm you might see it shrink and slump a bit so as said do in two hits.

 

Missed this reply/ its no nonsense caulk acrylic yes. ok 2 hits/ will do. thanks

[zoothorn]

On 24/10/2020 at 15:49, PeterW said:

As the drawing from @joe90 that shows the difference with the frame types. The force on a frame is tiny - you can use the same frame for a 40kg fire door as you do for a 7kg egg box MDF

door, the difference is the hinges and how well you screw it to the frame. 
 

If you’re making a door you may as well make the frame. Use 5x1 Planed All Round timber and then use the rest for your door ledges and brace, and then clad it with T&G floor board assuming you’ve got a standard cottage door. 

 

Hi PeterW I'm back over here. Respite- a bit simpler than a CH system, I hope!

 

I'm planning my frame job: so far Ive got ticked to get today '5x1 Planed All Round timber'. So referring back to Joe's Rebate or Plant-on sketch (understand the difference in design) the Plant-on looks the simpler to do, I assume, meaning no big rebate to rout: not easy to do for me here tbh. Is Plant-on sufficient here, with regards to my perhaps not-ideal structure I'm fixing the frame uprights to-?

 

thanks- zoot.

 

[joe90]

23 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Is Plant-on sufficient

all my door stops are “plant on”. I just prefer them and more than adequate.

[zoothorn]

On 25/10/2020 at 10:12, joe90 said:

We all know of your problems with the builder so let’s leave that, or you will get an ulcer!!!.
 

RIGHT, if it were me I would make my own frame from 130mm x 40mm planned square edge (or as near as you can), screwed to the upright timbers, remove plasterboard behind these if you wish but not necessary IMO. Verticals up to the ceiling Then tight fit top piece between them. (This will help stop hinges pulling frame away from the wall). Build your own “plank “ door and fit then buy 40mm x 15mm door stops and fit them to the door afterwards. Quick CAD drawing (crayon assisted drawing).

 

 

 

Just to recap- I'll be going as per Joe's sketch (terrific- really helps). IE I'm going to leave the pB in place/ fix timbers over it.

 

So the horizontal header bit.. just a friction-fit shaped piece? no need to rebate each end/ joint it to the uprights? and this the same 130x40mm planed square edge I assume (I guess this is same as Peter's 5x1 All Round planed).

 

The only way of fixing horizontal, is diagonal big f-o screws: is the the only viable way? Its gotta be spot-on flush to the verticals the only prob.. Im rarely good at diagonal fixing/ jointing perfectly. A bit of a sod tbh.

 

thx zH

[zoothorn]

4 minutes ago, joe90 said:

all my door stops are “plant on”. I just prefer them and more than adequate.

 

Hi Joe- Ok great I'm doing this then.

 

One thing that springs to mind before I start, is the fairly narrow W I have to play with. Ideally if I undid the pB each side I could gain 1" overall.. but logistics of doing/ tidying up adds a day's work for me. The carpeter is chasing me/ got to just get frame in > so he can work.

 

Do I have the option of putting the door opening instead of 'within' the two 5x1 uprights, on the 'face' of them instead? meaning a wider door by 1" or so, it sort of like a lid closing onto the short sides of the 5x1.

 

Im just wondering if there actually is any benefit from this, if the opening you go through, remains the same, as its governed by the 5x1 in the same position whichever way. The only difference in the opening being the plant-on bit is awol on my 'lid' idea.. still is less the plant's 1/2" either side tho.

 

 

[zoothorn]

I measure my kitchen (internal) door as same W as mine will be, if I go the standard way & it sits on the plant-on added pieces, like your sketch.

 

Narrow @ 28" opening (measured plant to plant) but never feels 'restricted' in kitchen.

 

So back to this idea. Its just the fixing in of the header that concerns me/ if the load is taken by this essentially/ how to get right.

[joe90]

I think you will have trouble trying to have the door “outside” the frame, if your worried about width then cut back the plasterboard which will give you an extra inch. Re the header, if fixing is a problem (why? What is above this?) then use no nails.

[joe90]

2 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

if the load is taken by this essentially/ how to get right.

there is no load on the header, the building should have a lintel of some sort holding things up. If you put the header in first, the uprights (if fitted tight floor to ceiling) will hold it in place, aided by no nails.

[PeterW]

Screw the header to the top of the uprights and slide into place. 

[zoothorn]

17 minutes ago, joe90 said:

there is no load on the header, the building should have a lintel of some sort holding things up. If you put the header in first, the uprights (if fitted tight floor to ceiling) will hold it in place, aided by no nails.

 

There's no lintel at all above here, just a poxy bit of stud across.. so I could fix up into this maybe: I was thinking I had to fix it just to the upright L& R. I thought the door load was pulling inwards on the Rhs upright, which is braced/ pushing on the header: I thought alot of the load therefore was intrinsically onto the header 'across' as it were.

 

Anyway- yes I'm forgetting the door-on-outside idea. Simpler not doing this.

 

thanks zH

[joe90]

Right, if you want the header to help keep the uprights against the walls rebate them slightly and screw. Fix the header to that stud work.

[zoothorn]

@joe90 ok understood, but isn't getting a header piece tight between though, effectively the same principle.. but easier to do-?

Edited November 3, 2020 by zoothorn

[zoothorn]

Im having trouble finding the timber. I thought this was the easy bit.

 

Is it 'redwood' planed timber, as opposed to 'whitewood'? The nearest I can find is this.. https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/pefc-standard-whitewood-pse-32-x-138mm-act-size-27-x-132mm-PWP32138

 

.. but I think whitewood isn't very good quality? certainly the 25x275 stuff I use is generally very light & often cracked/ cupped. I need to buy the right stuff for this, if my structure its fixing to isn't great.

 

 

 

 

[zoothorn]

3 hours ago, PeterW said:

Screw the header to the top of the uprights and slide into place. 

 

Ah yes.. didn't think of this! that's an idea but I was thinking best way to get this bit super-tight was fit L & R 1st, whittle down the header bit until I get it super tight. I'll never be able to get it super tight screwing it onj 1st. Rebating that bit.. not easy either.

 

Anyway I'm truly stuck on what timber- I seem to have only 1 option available, & poor quality 'whitewood'. 27mm x 130mm actual size.

 

I'm wondering now if I were to buy a frame kit thing, then just narrow the header piece, I'll have good straight timber @ correct thickness like this.

 

?

[PeterW]

Last door casing I bought could have been used as a propellor it was that twisted ... nothing wrong with whitewood if you can pick a straight bit with no knots. 

[joe90]

29 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

poor quality 'whitewood'.

why do you make that assumption ???

 

screw the frame together as @PeterW suggests and slide it in, then  hammer Thin wedges under the uprights at the floor (which will be covered by carpet) and this will make it a very tight fit.

[zoothorn]

3 hours ago, PeterW said:

Screw the header to the top of the uprights and slide into place. 

 

1 minute ago, PeterW said:

Last door casing I bought could have been used as a propellor it was that twisted ... nothing wrong with whitewood if you can pick a straight bit with no knots. 

 

12 minutes ago, joe90 said:

why do you make that assumption ???

 

screw the frame together as @PeterW suggests and slide it in, then  hammer Thin wedges under the uprights at the floor (which will be covered by carpet) and this will make it a very tight fit.

 

 

Cos I use it alot for my work- sounds great as its light & the only 275mm I can get, but a sod to work with as its dreadful quality: not an assumpion, rather a finding.

 

Ok I'm off to see what wood I can find for it. thx zoot

[zoothorn]

4 hours ago, PeterW said:

 

 

1 hour ago, PeterW said:

 

 

55 minutes ago, joe90 said:

 

 

Ok am I following the way here then, or doing it any differently because I don't have a 'regular' opening.. seems a decent clip..