zoothorn Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share Posted January 7, 2021 @joe90 or @PeterW or @Onoff I'm just continuing with the door fit. What to do next.. Ive got it trimmed best I can do, hopefully 1mm above carpet or so opening out, 4mm gap to frame above (2mm gap hinge side, 4mm gap latch side). I expect it expand a bit, being a very moist climate (black mould @ french door reveals already formed), so given an extra few mm's up/ down: I assume this is the more likely 'axis' it'll expand rather than the ledged L to R. Ok is the next step to whack on my frame plant-on 3x strips? @ exact 20mm depth, as per my door thickness? I guess so.. but just checking 1st. Then Ive got a stop all round, to offer door up very exactly using placcy packers I think is the idea. thanks, zH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 Yes good idea re gap, I hate sticky doors and people tend to forget about paint thickness. Personally I like to hang the door including the catch first then apply the stops to fit the door exactly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 If you recall one of your other threads we said to close your door then plant the door strips on using 1mm packers between them and the face of the door. When you prime & paint it'll take up that 1mm gap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share Posted January 7, 2021 1 minute ago, joe90 said: Yes good idea re gap, I hate sticky doors and people tend to forget about paint thickness. Personally I like to hang the door including the catch first then apply the stops to fit the door exactly. Ok so you're proposing not fit the plant-on stops next then. I understand your reasoning to hang door 1st/ to get the more ideal fit onto the stops.. but I don't know how I can hang it & position it etc, without it falling fwd into room without the stops being there 1st to help me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share Posted January 7, 2021 5 minutes ago, Onoff said: If you recall one of your other threads we said to close your door then plant the door strips on using 1mm packers between them and the face of the door. When you prime & paint it'll take up that 1mm gap. Hi Onoff. I do recall the suggestion, but now coming back to this info actually doing the job, I can't quite understand it. Ok firstly I'm not painting it/ leaving natural as other doors are, it'll darken over time (& less faff too). Its the '1st close door > then offer plant ons up to it' idea I can't see how (to close door without plant-on there 1st) at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 @zoothorn 3 temporary scrap pieces of door stop (or anything else) tacked onto frame where hinges and catch will be, something on the floor to give required gap. What hinges are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share Posted January 7, 2021 17 minutes ago, joe90 said: @zoothorn 3 temporary scrap pieces of door stop (or anything else) tacked onto frame where hinges and catch will be, something on the floor to give required gap. What hinges are you using? Aha ok that makes sense. Right hinge here ( not fixed obviously). 10" long the door side: i hope with 3x instead of 2x like my other bedroom doors i think 12" jobs, they'll be sufficient. Door is bit thicker @ 20mm (plus 25mm ledges, chosen just in case I need to put PIR on the back). 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 Nice, right, prop the door in the opening with gaps as required and fix hinges, simples ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share Posted January 7, 2021 4 minutes ago, joe90 said: Nice, right, prop the door in the opening with gaps as required and fix hinges, simples ? Ok will start this later/ off to find emergency plant pots! But the hinges: so I 1st fix to the door (presumably) with hinge pivoty mid bit just off door edge? or just on it? Then its where to attatch hinges to, on the frame. Ok my architrave strips are on perp onto the door frame.. so do I need to whittle out sections of it to fit hinges to? (so when door's closed the hinge is all on the same "plane").. or can I fit hinges perp to this, onto the inside of the frame itself? IE do I have a choice where hinge fixes to, frame side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 (edited) Ah, if you have architrave fitted that’s awkward as these type of hinges are usually fitted “on the same plane”. So you either need to cut out a section of architrave fir each hinge or!,,,, you could do like this BUT the countersink in the hinges on the frame side fir the screws will be on the wrong side so you will need to carefully countersink the hinges WITHOUT going right through ? Edited January 7, 2021 by joe90 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 2 hours ago, zoothorn said: Door is bit thicker @ 20mm (plus 25mm ledges, chosen just in case I need to put PIR on the back) Happy New Year Zoot. Like the door, glad things are moving along for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share Posted January 7, 2021 3 hours ago, PeterStarck said: Happy New Year Zoot. Like the door, glad things are moving along for you. Hi Peter, hny to you.. thing's moving indeed: just today Vaillant here (CH pump noise overnight debacle) & fingers x'd finally resolved. So can leave system on overnight, ie so rads can come on from 6.30am again. But.. it makes no difference in kitchen, bathroom tho: I measured temp in bathroom today (first time done in here) 8am 9.3*. Ok so no rad on since 6.30 am, but at 2pm (rad on hot since Chap went 11am) 9.4*. Just now.. still 9.4*. So in these two adjacent rooms the CH is completely innefective. So I'll turn these rads off, just use fan heater as Im used to doing. That's how bad this house is. As I can just put up with new bedroom at 12.7* no rad on 8am (today, coldest yet).. there's very little point putting CH on at all!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 At the risk of repeating myself, your system was not designed properly, any insulation or not should have been taken into consideration and your system designed to be “fit fir purpose” which yours is not. ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 18 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Hi Peter, hny to you.. thing's moving indeed: just today Vaillant here (CH pump noise overnight debacle) & fingers x'd finally resolved. So can leave system on overnight, ie so rads can come on from 6.30am again. But.. it makes no difference in kitchen, bathroom tho: I measured temp in bathroom today (first time done in here) 8am 9.3*. Ok so no rad on since 6.30 am, but at 2pm (rad on hot since Chap went 11am) 9.4*. Just now.. still 9.4*. So in these two adjacent rooms the CH is completely innefective. So I'll turn these rads off, just use fan heater as Im used to doing. That's how bad this house is. As I can just put up with new bedroom at 12.7* no rad on 8am (today, coldest yet).. there's very little point putting CH on at all!! Sorry to hear about the heating problems you still have. If it were me I would leave the CH on 24/7 for two or three days. Is your system able to be set to run continuously for 24 hours or does it do it's own thing and turn itself off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share Posted January 7, 2021 Just now, PeterStarck said: Sorry to hear about the heating problems you still have. If it were me I would leave the CH on 24/7 for two or three days. Is your system able to be set to run continuously for 24 hours or does it do it's own thing and turn itself off. But if I'm getting such little results even having it on at all, I can't see therefore any point putting it on for 24/7. I hate to think what the CH has cost me so far for the ~6 months. I see your idea tho, try get the 'core' of house warm. But I just don't think (certainly I'm adamant of this in the 2 rooms warmth most needed -kitchen/ bathroom- & by bad luck the worst insulated rooms of all) that the house is capable of benefitting from this exercise. The two new rooms I think would, but I just can't afford to run all 8x rads effectively to keep two new rooms warm. It seems I'm better off ditching the CH, run 1x leccy heater in workshop (seems easily to get toasty so maybe a diddy 500w ok) & a bigger 1kw one for new bedroom above. So what I had before, just shifting my 2 leccy rads I removed, to the new extention.. instead of in bathroom/ kitchen where I had a suspicion were useless due to the huge cold in these rooms (now today I have proof using your thermometre). I'll see how I go with CH on from 6.30am for a week tho. Decide then. Main thing is awful incessant pump noise stopped!! hallelujah. fingers x'd mind. Chap today told me many complaining of same thing, & an acknowledgement by Vaillant of a mfr defect!! so at last I'm vindicated!! blimey now they say. I've been fighting fighting for months in the belief it was only me, screwed my head up with effort to sort out, & stress that Id never get rid of it (let alone stress of it waking me)/ it was normal & Im only one complaining/ everyone else must just put up with it etc. Relief. Thanks zH. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 Hallelujah, congrats getting the noise sorted, a big step forward ?. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share Posted January 7, 2021 16 minutes ago, joe90 said: Hallelujah, congrats getting the noise sorted, a big step forward ?. Longest fight Ive had. monumental effort. Got yet another engineer visit tmrw.. to fix leak (water pressure etc)! again tho fingers x'd. Not ideal having cardiff young chaps from cardiff/ swansea area come out again & again in current climate tho is it.. Screws: my black hinges didn't come with any, & my fab diy shop I can test a screw for size, is shut (no plant pots in town too! bah). So could you advise? hinges have quite big 6mm W holes, with top of countersunk splayed bit 10mm W. thx zH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 38 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Main thing is awful incessant pump noise stopped!! hallelujah. fingers x'd mind. Chap today told me many complaining of same thing, & an acknowledgement by Vaillant of a mfr defect!! so at last I'm vindicated!! blimey now they say. I've been fighting fighting for months in the belief it was only me, screwed my head up with effort to sort out, & stress that Id never get rid of it (let alone stress of it waking me)/ it was normal & Im only one complaining/ everyone else must just put up with it etc. Relief. Thanks zH. So what did they actually do to cure the noise issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share Posted January 7, 2021 1 minute ago, ProDave said: So what did they actually do to cure the noise issue? "Two new boards, waiting to come from germany.." they kept telling me ProDave. Yeah right I thought/ surely not made just for me-? BS. But an issue in all units (afaict) rectified by making new circuit boards, & getting das engleesman engineers to install in all units sold. afaict. Very costly surely. & not very german is it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 17 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Longest fight Ive had. monumental effort. Got yet another engineer visit tmrw.. to fix leak (water pressure etc)! again tho fingers x'd. Not ideal having cardiff young chaps from cardiff/ swansea area come out again & again in current climate tho is it.. Screws: my black hinges didn't come with any, & my fab diy shop I can test a screw for size, is shut (no plant pots in town too! bah). So could you advise? hinges have quite big 6mm W holes, with top of countersunk splayed bit 10mm W. thx zH Worth a punt https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-Pieces-Pack-20mm-Long-4mm-Black-Finish-Countersunk-Cross-Head-Wood-Screws/264948545921?hash=item3db029f981:g:XawAAOSw8DpcL3OH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share Posted January 7, 2021 @joe90 thanks/ gives me a good start. Do you think I might need longer & maybe m5? if my ledges are 25mm.. don't I want them to go thru this, & onward into the t&g (20mm thick) a bit too? or is say M5 x 30mm ott.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 (edited) @zoothorn from your photo I thought your hinges were going on the 20mm? Not the 25mm?, whichever you think is best for the timber your using. If the hinges are going on the cross ledges (20 + 25mm) then go for 40mm, longer is best. Edited January 7, 2021 by joe90 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share Posted January 7, 2021 2 minutes ago, joe90 said: @zoothorn from your photo I thought your hinges were going on the 20mm? Not the 25mm?, whichever you think is best for the timber your using. If the hinges are going on the cross ledges (20 + 25mm) then go for 40mm, longer is best. Yup sorry my pic was only meant to show hinge, not also where its going. So they'll go on the other side of course, & @ the 3x ledge positions (I guess is sensible.. or do I put the lowest one up a bit-?). So m5x 40mm maybe. nice slotted ones ideally, but seem £alot more than philips. thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 @zoothorn please keep using the CH, and don’t go back to the heaters as your electricity bill will increase not decrease !! A fan heater is a resistance heater, and for each kW of electric you put in, you get nearly a kW of heat out. A heat pump uses the electricity to pull heat from the air, and for every kW of electric you put in, you get between 2 and 4 kW of heat out ( the CoP or coefficient of performance) Heat pumps are much more efficient and even if they only get a CoP of 2, it is twice as effective and half the cost of the same heat input from your heaters. Now it is working properly, you need to get it running properly and see what improvement you see. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 5 minutes ago, zoothorn said: So m5x 40mm maybe. nice slotted ones ideally, but seem £alot more than philips. thanks. small price to pay fir getting it right ?. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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