ToughButterCup Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 "Yew've got two speeds lad, dead slow and stop" Sergeant Williams commentary on my efforts during the Log Race last Century. He was right. I am slow. But I get there. Like I am slowly getting there with our windows. Slow, cautious. Of course it helps if you have a brilliant mate called Ed who produces stuff like this for all to see. Ed, could you please explain the build up of the connection between the window and the cill (sill) in the first few seconds. particulalrly, what's that stuff that appears to be under the window.... 0:07 Ta! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 The window sits on the cill so it's not connected as such. Because I wanted my windows as far back as possible the cill needed to bridge my cavity. The white board (orange arrow) was some offcuts of plastic soffit, it is just a formwork to hold the concrete until it went off but I chose that as it was waterproof and will never rot, black tape was just duct tape to seal all the edges. One bit you may not be able to see is I fitted some draught excluder on the back of the mould to stop the muck running down the wall (blue arrow) also in the bottom of the mould I tacked some cable to create a drip. Other than that they were as simple as they look. Hold the mould in the right place with clamps, fill them with your choice of sand/cement, vibrate them a Lot. Then remove once it's gone off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted January 18, 2020 Author Share Posted January 18, 2020 Thanks Ed, brilliant. I need to adapt one or two things, but that's not too difficult - I'll get on with it..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 If you have aluminium windows, I believe they shouldn’t be in contact with the concrete i seem to remember being a corrosion issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simplysimon Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 nice and neatly done, i would say, to aid removal, a slight splay at the ends would help, as would oiling the timber and cable. used to be whale oil, stank to high heaven and there are less lethal oils on the market now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 Everbuild EVBSILSPRAY All Purpose Silicone Spray 400ml https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0017RMIVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_27WiEbEAYG1G6 I used this. I found out the hard way not to rush taking the mould off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 Vegetable oil is the cheapest oil you could use for this type of job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 I did a similar thing at my last house in the 90s. I made the mould out of melamine board and just to be sure I coated it in vegetable oil. I fixed a semi circular bead on the bottom of the mould near the front as a drip channel. It all worked as expected fortunately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 I thought I'd start small and make my mistakes on this small window (of which we have 3) [Quick aside @craig (Ecowin) thought that Gaulhofer wouldn't be able to make windows this small - 600mm overall] Here's the patient : the problem at this stage is similar to the one @Roz had .... here First job is strip back the foam to just a bit deeper than the frame, and CT1 along all four edges right? Which leads to the first question - CT1 outside AND inside? (Photos to follow.) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dreadnaught Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 (edited) Ah @AnonymousBosch, so I take it that its a Gaulhofer window (which confounded @craig)? Off topic I know, but could ask about the frame/glass ratio there? Are those standard frame widths or are they a special request by you? The reason I ask is because I will have four windows which are currently planned to be within 685mm apertures. But if the glass pane would end up being as narrow as the one in your photo I will be tempted to widen the aperture. Edited January 21, 2020 by Dreadnaught Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 1 hour ago, Dreadnaught said: ..., but could ask about the frame/glass ratio there? Are those standard frame widths or are they a special request by you? ... The ratio is as seen ... next to no glass, mostly frame. Special request is a bit grand: they are what the architect specified. CTI outside and inside? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dreadnaught Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 5 minutes ago, AnonymousBosch said: CTI outside and inside? Thanks. Unsure what this means ↑ . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 5 hours ago, AnonymousBosch said: I thought I'd start small and make my mistakes on this small window (of which we have 3) [Quick aside @craig (Ecowin) thought that Gaulhofer wouldn't be able to make windows this small - 600mm overall] Here's the patient : the problem at this stage is similar to the one @Roz had .... here First job is strip back the foam to just a bit deeper than the frame, and CT1 along all four edges right? Which leads to the first question - CT1 outside AND inside? (Photos to follow.) Wtf? How small? D'you intend firing arrows through that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 (edited) Just a wee quick note @AnonymousBosch, those windows are less than 300mm (circa 295 if memory serves me right) ? Regarding the work, you have 10mm tolerenace either side, plus 14mm of exposed frame. Totalling 24mm either side. What's the objective? I presume it's to finish of the returns with render at some point and make it look nice? They are narrow windows, so why not make it a feature? Pack out the returns by 50mm, then just bring the render into the aluminium cladding of the windows frame and finish it off with a render stop bead? Result, less visible frame externally. Edited January 21, 2020 by craig 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 36 minutes ago, Onoff said: Wtf? How small? D'you intend firing arrows through that? If I had a quid for every time someone has asked me that... The answer is - the gap inside the is the perfect width for a machine gun bipod. The architect's idea of a joke, I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 3 minutes ago, AnonymousBosch said: If I had a quid for every time someone has asked me that You would have almost a tenner. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 I think they would be good with a splayed reveal internally and externally, covering up at least half the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 CT1 is fine as an adhesive / sealant but it is pretty awful as an exposed finish as it is very difficult to tool. You could have it under the render / plasterboard no probs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 1 hour ago, Mr Punter said: I think they would be good with a splayed reveal internally and externally, covering up at least half the frame. @AnonymousBosch will still have good angles for firing arrows etc! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 I think ct1 would work but why not use a product designed for air sealing windows i have just had a load of ILBRUCK AIR SEALING FOAM delivered and sausages of air sealing sealant. The correct sealant was £7 a sausage for probably 1-1/2 times the quantity of a tube of ct1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 @AnonymousBosch I really like those and also think @craig has made a really good suggestion .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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