Moonshine

Thanks, i think i will do it in two back drops of about 1.5 - 1.8m each, something like this, the red circles being the back drops. in that image what is the connector from the 110mm bend to the IC inlet?

I need to get a poo pipe from the back of my new build to the front, and there is a level difference of about 3m in a 10m to get down To do the level change i am going to probably have to do a couple of backdrop inspection chambers Has anyone got guidance on how to build one from a standard 450 inspection chamber and 110m drainage? and also the maximum depth allowed of them?

kind of, the window installers have agreed to put the tape on the frame prior to installation, but won't do any other airtightness work which is fair enough and is on me. how do you do the airtightness of a window frame that is already fixed in place?

i have been looking at the illbruck ME508 Duo tape (200mm) to be stuck onto the inside of the windows frames before they go in to the recess, like this best price i can find it for is here https://www.sealantsonline.co.uk/ProductGrp/illbruck-me508-duo-membrane-ew-f

Don't do this. Apply for planning permission and get that ball rolling. look to get insurance against a situation that they claim, give these guys (there are others) a call to see if they can help you https://www.lawsureinsurance.co.uk/our-products/title-protection/

@canalsiderenovation please have someone video the installation

Two of these with some 2 x 4 screwed into it to make a 3.2cm slot on each https://www.toolstation.com/roughneck-dolly/p99817 Maybe a frame to hold it up, if you feel its needed

That looks an absolute pig of a job, and i thought i was in a bind with mine as below. Where it FFL going to be? I can't really make out what the sub structure wall construction is, it it 140mm inner leaf, ~50mm cavity, and 100mm block externally which has been rendered? like this or this

As an update to this the BCO came out is is happy for the vents to go between the slips at the end of the beams as its 7N blocks. The new brickie has the headache of evenly spacing the vents between the beam ends along the wall and tying in with solid bricks Luckily it seems the new brickie has a sense of humour!

C-Studs can only be used if you use a fixing bracket to the wall (as below) in the Gyplyner system (not as effective acoustically as you have connections to the existing wall), for the Gyplyner IWL (independent wall liner) it needs to be I-studs for rigidity. below if the key to that figure.

as @nod above, use the GypLyner IWL system https://www.british-gypsum.com/white-book-system-selector/systems-overview/linings/gyplyner-iwl?tab0=0

I have a garden wall going in to separate a level of about 600-800mm. It's going to be stone faced. Any idea on depth of footing typically needed and width of wall? I am thinking block behind the stone

How big in m2 is the extension?

Do you have a detail / diagram for this?

Same here finding LABC officer very good for our build

i have two bi-folds one 3.6m and one 3m, due to a cock up in ordering i am now using steel beams over the openings, with beam sizes specified by the SE Below is the rough detail i have drawn (there will need to be a cavity tray and weep holes above the opening), and i am scratching my head how to support the render and wet plaster over the areas of the beams, and also what to do about the area of the exposed beam on the outside just above the bi-folds. Any 0ther comments on the detailings would be welcome (e.g. cold bridging

i would build the walls with the cavity, core drill out 100mm hole and put the 100mm round duct through and seal the perimeters of the duct, before plastering and ceilings. Thenfill with EPS beads As for thermal you have a 100mm hole in the wall and the only real way i know to reduce the cold issue is with shutters, though would be interested if there is a better way. Edit: if there is a duct run in a ceiling void you could wrap it with insulation

me too, i had to get into the floor void as a guide rope for services got stuck and needed to be freed. I was actually surprised how much effort it took to get one out once grouted

Even better, 140mm x 38mm c24 structural wall will do it, ask your SE. Again ask the SE if the width of the footing and thickness of the slab can accommodate an off centre 140mm wall. I think that your SE will be able to get a solution for you without messing around with the layout

Depends on the foundation type, a offset foundation works, so it could be possible here. I would at least ask the SE about the option and if it could work with what it has been built.

- change the stairs to put a quarter tern or something in? its impossible to know if this is doable without layouts (can you post) - Thinner door? looks pretty small anyway - steeper stairs, max to BR is 42 degrees. - how wide was the trench under the slab, check with the SE and ask how much does it have to have either side of the wall, it maybe o.k to have the wall off centre on the trench line.

this is pointed out from @Nickfromwales I am seriously considering this as the drill is £135 until the end of the day, and that impact driver is total £205. So for the makita twin set which is £161.99, for an extra £40 you get 5 ah batteries and a brushless impact driver.

I am seriously considering this as the drill is £135 until the end of the day, and that impact driver is total £205. This twin pack is £225 with the voucher but the impact won't be brushless or have a work light. https://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-dlx2336st-18v-5-0ah-li-ion-lxt-cordless-twin-pack/914jj

ewww https://www.thedailymash.co.uk/news/society/hot-tub-owners-pretending-its-not-a-nasty-sex-pond-2013042266204

Councils like extensions which are be designed to appear subservient to the existing building, without seeing your plans its not possible to see, but that could be part of the issue