Moonshine

Glue it and it should be fine, if you are worried about the joint put a couple of noggins in to support the joint

How do you get power from the inside to outside to an ASHP isolator box. My thoughs are its as simple a running a cable from the ceiling behind trucking / dot and dab, drill a hole in the external wall feed the cable through the wall to the isolator switch. Is that too much of a ludite way or do i need a conduit or something else?

i am doing this job now too, i have done a 25mm PIR insulation, but i think that the foam around the edge is for expansion, not for the insulation, and goes in after the VCL membrane

To be honest this amount of water would make me really nervous, and hope that nothing bad happens with it

After a fair bit of faffing around, this is what we are going to do. Ufh manifold in the cabinet in stud wall i living room behind a door that is going to mainly be open and 22mm pipes going out to a remote pump mounted on the opposide of the wall behind / in a cut out of the back of a kitchen cupboard for maintainance It also means that the cabinet in the wall can be smaller.

Skips 25 - 30 quoted for? Jesus, How much stuff are they throwing away If my maths is right, that is £70/m2 for 100mm block (£7 a block)!!! 😐That is F'ing expensive. They don't do 200mm thick, so you will have to use two 100mm layers, a quick google https://www.insulationhub.co.uk/product/knauf-dritherm-32-cavity-insulation-100mm/ Each pack covers 3.28m2, so doubling up for 250m2, gives around 150 packs. Say 160 packs needed for wastage. That £5.3k in materials. Remainder £4.2k to fit the stuff. Its not nice stuff to fit (i did 150mm if it on my build) due to skin irritation, but its not a fiddly as PIR around openings. Anyway call it 500m2 to fit due to the double layer, that is £8 / m2. Again on the expensive side

A couple of things stand out to me on the floor build up 123) The materials for this (DPM + joining tape) is probably ~£150, and not a massive job to lay a plastic sheet down and join it, so contractor 1 is pushing it on labour costs i think, contractor 2 is much more sensible but would expect 2 guys to do this in a mornings work. 124) Materials, my builder has given me his price list he gets from a local BM, PIR 150mm £74 a sheet, 75mm £35 a sheet. that works out as at ~£38m2 for 225mm, allow 150m2 for wastage, that's £5.7k for the insulation alone. call it £6k when you add on foil tape and expanding foam, maybe a bit more for a 25mm PIR perimeter strip. Given the amount you are buying you could get a good deal from a BM. The remainder works out at about £3k in labour. Assume expensive builders of £250 a day, that's 12 man days! Personally i would like to think that could be done in 4-5 man days, so this looks heavy to the tune of about £1.5k. 125) as with 123 materials are similar so similar comments to 125 126) why sand and cement screed? maybe potential saving in liquid screed, try this call a local liquid screeder as you maybe surprised at the cost. i have been quoted for 80m2 of 55mm screed of £1400 + Vat (£17.5 m2). could be a saving for you here, especially contractor 2!

Duplicate

The image attached to my first post is the only dimension information i got from the window company. I didnt recieve any final design drawings for the curtain walling, i did for the bifold and windows and approved them (i was on these like a hawk and found a couple of errors) Below is my window spec i provided to them via email (excel) for them to quote. W1 - W4 is the curtain wall (minus the door) which shows the outer frame diameter and opening widths During the early stages of the build i emailed them that the as built strutural opening upto 2800mm above block and beam was around 1818mm - 1826mm. Would the glass come from the same supplier as the curtain wall frame supplier? Next nightmare would be the glass being too big for the small frame.

I am tempted to text him to ask why the frame is 30mm thinner than the agreed size detailed in the quote.

The window fitter doing the order or their supplier? All the window and bi-folds outer frames (different suppliers) which have turned up on site have been bang on the dimensions of the spec I provided and quote (no tolerance added). If anything, i think that the curtain walling supplier has added the tolerances, especially as i have gone through loads with the window fitters what tolerances they needed for apertures.

How stuffed is this situation? We have a massive curtain walling system going at the front of our house, and right from the start the glazing company has been very clear the structural opening needs to be bob on vertical and the correct openings, we have been told that it needs a certain tolerance in the width and we were working to that The agreed quote states this With the agreed size provided in the quote as below, so i have been working to a structural opening of about 1820-1830mm x ~7530mm. My specification of windows provided for the quote stated outer frame dimensions, which are mirrored as per the quote agreed dimensions below The frame has been fitted today, and i get home to find there is a massive gap down one side measuring about 30mm from the cavity closer (windows guys have left site) I have measured the frame with a tape measure and the frame is 1770mm wide and 7480mm high. Its like someone has taken the structural opening tolerances off the agreed frame size. The company has the following in their quote T&C's The glass for the curtain walling isn't on site yet, but either it fits this frame, or the glass is going to be too big for the frame fitted. All the windows ordered through the company have all been the right size for the apertures. he window company ordered the curtain walling frame so it seems that if they haven't provided the correct frame size as per the quote its on them, their supplier. Tried to call the guy but his phone is off (suspicious), what the f&^k to do.

Thanks, very interested to see your arrangement. One oncern i have is thst the cabinet will be in a corner of the livingroom and i am concerned pump noise will be a disturbance Edit, found the 150mm version which will be best for me https://www.giacomini.com/en/products/r557i

What pump / cabinet did you use. Some of the cabinets dont look that deep.

one of these has caught my eye https://www.wundatrade.co.uk/shop/home/underfloor-heating-manifolds-and-pump-sets/underfloor-heating-manifolds/medium-recessed-waterproof-manifold-cabinet/ https://cdn.wundatrade.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/T08-Waterproof-Manifold-Cabinet-1.pdf Has anyone used one of these?

We have our hob going in on a kitchen island and need to get power to it. The electrician has said the a 32mm waste pipe will be fine, but there is a bit of discussion where to put the conduit. Options are; a) in screed (50-60mm) and ufh to be laid out arround it b) embeded in top layer of insulation, under vcl / screed c) direct onto dpm / block and beam floor with fixings and insulation above. I can see issues with all three, so what are BH's thoughts on what is best?

Thanks Nick, i have also heard back from IKO Polymeric and they say the same that the direction doesnt matter.

We had our single ply installed last week and been up there a few times and just noticed a few of the welded joints in the single ply are facing up the fall as below. I havent raised this with the roofer yet but to me these joints should be facing down the fall to take the risk of failure in the the joint I have asked the question to the technical department of the single ply manufacturer. What are peoples thoughts?

My drawings show sand and cement render, and i have been speaking to a local renderer who has said due to the big panels it will need several movement joints. He has suggested using thin coat render, however the reason i wanted sand and cement render as i can paint over it different colours (long storey about this) What are the pros and cons of thin coat compared to sand and cement?

I have gone with noggins as its only 6 furrings back to back on this section of roof. They are deep enough at the thinnest point for that very reason. On the other larger section of roof the back to back furrings are sitting on a 100mm joist.

Like this?

We are laying the furrings out on joists and they are going back to back to create a mini ridge. Where the ridge is formed back to back they can be on a joist but the joist is only 47mm wide, so each furring will get ~23mm to rest on. This seems too narrow and wondering if its best to put a noggin in under the joint to provide more bearing. The furrings havent been cut to length yet so can make this change Or

My windows are going to be finally fitted in a couple of weeks, and my mind is going how to make them air tight. Currently the openings look like this. My initial thoughts were to use ME508 200mm fixed to the frames before they go in. The window installer has agreed to fix the membrane to the frame as he installs, but is leaving the rest of the airtightness work to others. Having looked at the cost of ME508 (£88 exc vat for 25m i am wondering if there is a more cost effective way. https://www.sealantsonline.co.uk/Products/illbruck-me508-duo-membrane-ew-f/TRE5301 What about installing the windows as is and applying a tape like tescon vana 60mm the joint https://www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/product/tescon-vana The tape will be more labour intensive but would be a third of the cost. Any other solutions i have missed or even using a 140mm wide ME508

Thanks I take it a 20mm one of these, sand and cement render to the left, render carrier board and render to the right