Moonshine

Seems so, one trick to fill the top of the brick at the end, is to use a trowel that has level mortar on it, slide it into the gap, then use a second trowel to cover the hole and slowly slide out the first trowel

I have been amazed how little wastage my brickies have created so far.

What is the going rate for 22mm Caberdek Decking with protective non-slip film? The best i can find at the moment is £12.10 +VAT per Board (2.4 x 0.6m), anything better out there or similar product?

i got one of these for £20 on facebook recently, there are bargains out there, but you have to be very quick

fair enough, due to the limited size of my slab and partial fills of my retaining walls its more cost effective for me to pay the £80 extra for the conveyor per loads than the pump cost.

Rather annoyingly a steel i have ordered has come sand blasted rather than painted. Before i put it in my build i presume i just need to prime with red oxide? https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-red-oxide-metal-primer-undercoat-750ml/947fg

How big is your slab and volume of concrete? Is site access restricted so you have to pump it? I have been using a supplier with a truck with a conveyor that has made the slab pour pretty easy and cheaper than a pump.

No, they do concrete pours

@nickw, @BotusBuild, @WestcountryWonderer i had procrete do mine (50m2), happy with it. They mainly do large commercial work. http://www.procreteuk.co.uk/

I will be, but can't get hold of him! ?

These are drawn at 450mm, but are only indicative.

This has got my goat, no where in my SE information pack is there information on the minimum depth of the trench fill foundations, only that they need to be 600mm wide, i am after the green demission below Is this not information that should be provided by the SE and confirmed with the BCO via site inspection prior to pour? The ground is good and has a safe allowable bearing pressure of 200kN/m2 Any ballpark ideas, 50mm, 500mm, 5000mm!

I have read that for the end of concrete floor beams with exposed rebar that are on the outside of the building which may get wet the beams should be protected, either with a mastic type material or an end cap. Any idea of a product that can be painted on?

I have never come across a double layer of starter bars, are they at 200 ctrs? Learning definitely learning, what route have you gone down for the retaining wall, filled cavity masonry wall or cast in situ? I did my second cavity fill today, and happy with how it has gone, up to 8 blocks high

Mine got really stiff but I put a load of grease on it the twist thread and works fine.

A what now? a double layer of A393? My SE spec'd the bottom layer as B1131 with lacer bars in it, to get the mass up.

Looking good, and It reminds me of me doing my slab mesh a few weeks ago. I,m currently filling the cavity of the retaining walls and getting the waterproofing done. I did about 200 starter bars and that was enough for me, you look as though you have triple that. I put a 6m length of rebar on the top mesh where the starter bar needed to be, so it could be tied to that and the bottom mesh. Before the pour I fixed the hope of the starter bars to another 6m length of rebar, to make sure they were vertical and the right spacing. I took this off before I attached the retaining wall mesh What are you tying with, I had the pull / twist tool and it was such a good thing to use.

The basic code is on another thread, but its not like its that complex. Interestingly Wickes have just put their cement up to £4.60, where at B&Q is still at £4.12

i can't see why not, though my price is excluding VAT, so for the sake of 80p its not worth the cutting

Could you use dritherm 32? i and getting 150mm thick for £10.22 M2. Though i guess there is the issue of cutting it, as it comes in 455mm wide batts what will be a pain to cut into 400 cts timber

cheers, for the majority of the windows i am looking to get premade ones done, its just around some areas i need to cut lengths down for doors and things.

I am going to fit cavity closers, what i am trying to get at is, i don't think its worth buying high spec ones like a Kingspan Kooltherm cavity closer, and a cheaper one would be o.k due to the full fill. e.g https://www.toolstation.com/ybs-24m-easi-close-eps-white-cavity-closer/p19768

I am looking to buy cavity closers, and just has a thought. As i am doing a fully filled cavity do i really need to buy a high spec cavity closer as the full fill will provide a good amount of insulation and there won't be cold air circulating in a residual cavity.

CCF, though after phoning them, it appears that the local branch can't get the recticel and they can only off the more expensive celotex

I am about to order the PIR for my floors, after the tears that its 40% more than my original costing i am just figuring out the best build up. Its a total thickness is 150mm which i can get 2.4 x 1.2m sheets of 150mm for £47 ex VAT (recticel Eurothane GP), but figure it will be easier to cut and stagger joints if i do 100mm and 50mm, which would be £48 ex VAT for 2.4 x 1.2m sheets or 100mm and 50mm. Thoughts?