Jenki

Yep the engine sump, rotted from out to in, went in the lower corner that I fixed with plastic metal, but it was rough in several places. When I contacted Parks, he mentioned that this was a major area of concern, and suggested that it was replaced before inspection, as they would.more than likely fail it anyway if there was any sign of leaks. The clutch was ready for replacement, glow plugs intermittently errored, and timing belt was due, so I took out the engine replaced what was needed, cleaned up some rust in the engine bay and sent it for inspection.

I think I first went mid Oct, it was 13 early December so needed to go in. I had to do some welding on inner sills, weld the DPF, and needed to change the Sump, as I'd already fixed with some plastic metal. Then just waited until I got the call early Feb. It went down and they failed it on a wheel bearing and a loose CV boot. So I brought it back fixed it and dropped it off in April

I took it to Inverness April 15, got a message to say it was on its way to Derby begining of May, and it's back in Inverness where they inspect it and give you £40 of fuel. I've had a 21plate invincible on loan all the time. I did take the rear tub off and I'm currently replacing some of the cross members and front bed.

Are you aware of the Toyota customer satisfaction campaign regarding chassis corrosion? It's not a recall, but they inspect the chassis and offer treatment or even a replacement chassis. My 2013, has just come back from Derby having a new chassis for free, not collected it yet but probably next week. Parks Toyota in Inverness have been excellent,not sure how the camper will affect the inspection but thought I'd mention it.

UPDATE: ITS ALIVE😅😁 I purchased a different USB drive, because when I read some of the reviews on the first one they made me think it was possibly the USB drive, as I looked under a microscope at all the capacitors etc. and tested them and none looked blown etc. anyway. Great result - the newer USB drive works like a dream, all files are there, I have a replacement motherboard coming so hoping that I can just plug in the SSD and it will boots as a PC.🤞 but for now the files are safe, and I have ensured that Google Drive is backing them up....

Does anyone know anybody that might be able to recover data from an M20. NVME Type M key SSD main drive? My pc went pop and took the drive with it, I've tried a USB adaptor and the drive shows in Disk Manager, but without any capacity so assuming a hardware fault due to the spike. Data recovery companies seem to be way too expensive route. starting £400. any suggestions? Any budding electronic guys able to float the NAND chips of, resolder and extract the data?

👍This.

Bigger machines tend to be cheaper, i.e a 5 ton or over, 3ton and less tend to have a premium as you can tow these with a car / truck. you'll only have to transport it once to site. Don't forget Big machines are way more fun😄 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/862980039433580/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Ac613b793-7289-40dd-b38f-23a385b4addc&__tn__=!%3AD 7.5K https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1322188182925413/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Ac613b793-7289-40dd-b38f-23a385b4addc&__tn__=!%3AD

Silicone 100%

I had never power floated, but budget said I had to try. and it was a fail. a few factors that didn't help: 1, It was really warm, yes highlands and it was 26deg. 2, not enough people. I had help from a neighbour and son, but they just helped get the concrete in, once in they left, leaving me and the wife. There just wasn't enough time to get the edges hand floated and the floors power floated. It wasn't terrible, just not good enough, ended up having to level compound some of the edges and grind a few high spots. so we opted for LVT. I one day might revisit and look at DIY epoxy.

Does anyone no of a model of split air conditioning that is ceiling mounted and can fit between 600mm spaced trusses. I.e. 570mm max width? Ideally a pre charged external unit. Never thought I'd have to think about this in the Highlands, but sat here now, no heating has been introduced to the house since April and it's 27deg inside🥵. I don't want to go down the route of cooling the slab as the days change so rapidly weather wise by the time it gets cool might want it warmer.

The more frugal tradesman, I know a few, have been laughed at having one of these in a van, but keep the receipt, abuse it, and return it 11 months later for a replacement. My Titan breaker has been going strong for around 6 years now, its changed shape slightly over the years but every year I put some effort in and it comes out looking like new 🤫

I built to a very tight 'budget' around (25% less). We had just over 50k on the bank when we started. However at that point I had been planning the build to the details @JohnMo describes, i.e. designing out all the features that cost more, (no hips, valleys, large structural openings). We also had all our services in, (treatment plant, water, electricity and most importantly planning, building warrant and certificate of design) . Timber frame airtightness costs a lot of money, and even if this is part of the kit follow on trades will do their best to ruin that good work due lack of understanding or CBA. We did all the work ourselves, hunted around for bargains and made choices based on cost and needs not like to haves. We switched to ICF, a big learning curve,.but I'm convinced we would not have been able to build to the levels we achieved (EPC A 103) with the same costs. Realistically we spent circa 70k internals all but finished decorated etc.for 89SqM. So be realistic,.how much are you doing..

This looks like a future problem in the making.. debris WILL collect here and no way of rodding, can you install a silt trap or inspection chamber where the tee is? find one with different invert levels.

That's probably the best thing they did for you, you wouldn't modify a rafter for a vent. The Timber work is poor, GRP messy. not great

You can get single and double Adjustable bends that might help, also you can get tight 90 Deg bends if space becomes tight

Possibly Yorkshire board cladding

I found a "Eco" treatment, that is water based, basically a sachet of crystal substance that you mix with 5 gallons of water. It must chemically react with the Larch, as you can see it change colour when the sun hits it as your treating it. It was a little more Brown than silver initially but 12month in the cladding even on the North is uniform and silver, and does look like its been here years (A look we were after, didn't want the Orange fading to silver in patches look ). I think it only cost £60 for the whole house.

I love the silvered effect of Larch, and you can even buy very expensive treatments to speed up the process. MY tatty old house will never need a coat of anything in my lifetime and no offence taken. Sarking 6" and Wall plate 4" boards in 4.8 m lengths treated are the most cost effective solution I think the 6" boards are £6 a length. I've clad an external shower / WC block and painted with shed paint to good effect.

UFH is different from radiators, it doesn't need to be a fast reactive heat. Well insulated air tight houses don't need rapid heat transfer. The heat from the slab (assuming very good insulation levels underneath) WILL heat the house, if it take 4 hours longer the first time the heating comes on so what? save your money and worry about something else

having a pressure gauge to check is a nice reassurance, I filled mine with air to 1 bar, be prepared for this to rise when the concrete heats the air :). looks like yours is pressurised already? The pipe is tough and as long as you keep excited labourers with sharp shovels away you should be fine. Secure the XPS or it will want to float away. any tape that will stick to the XPS will be ok to seal the pipe. Personally not keen on zip ties to secure the pipe (as these can snap with a bit too much eager poker vibration) especially the small black ties. The two black ducts try to get vertical possibly tie to the manifold board, it would do my head in once finished and the pipe come out of the floor at an angle. Cover the manifold otherwise it will get splashed with concrete from vibration. I used offcuts of insulation, its was easier to get out afterwards. IMHO wouldn't hurt either way.

As you say you can layout very accurately with the 3-4-5 rule and a knowledge or triangles. The problem with tech only approach is when the operator doesn't have the skill to gross check for errors.

For me it would be cost. £30 for the tapes and away you go, my time was free. That said I love technology being used in this way.

With 12 acres to play with this was never an issue for us, but I can guarantee no mater where you stockpile it for "later", it will need moving to do something else ,before you want to use it. 🤪

@nod very impressive 👏. What area or Preston? We lived in Longridge for 18 months before our move North.