Marvin

I think its easier to calculate which horse would win the grand national. I think there are about 50 variables which effect heating a home. We calculated down to -8 and covered that because we were not sure (renovated bungalow) Most of the time we overheat too easily even though we only have one skylight window facing south.

We altered our weather compensation. Outside temperature now 10C ASHP buffer tank set temp 35C. Living room 23.1 C

Hi @knobblycats Again sorry if I missed it.... Another thought is the recovery rate of the hot water tank. I would have a tank with at least one immersion heater positions. We heat our water via an ASHP which only goes up to 50C and at that temperature in cold winter gives a quite low COP. If the storage tank is cold how many kWh's would it take to heat - worth calculating before you go to far -

Hi @knobblycats Sorry if I missed this earlier... Have you tested to cold water flow rate? I only say this because, as I understand it, there may three showers in use at once. (ignoring everything else in the building that uses water like the loos etc) Say they each run at 12 litres a minute that's 36 litres per minute. will you have a big enough pipe to supply that in the house?

Don't forget that fees are expected to rise dramatically very soon....

Hi @SBMS There's quite a few rules about permitted development. Perhaps a look at this lot will help. It gives other restrictions like what is considered to be the ORIGINAL House. Also your house's history is unknown, is it within any restricted areas, what does the land registry says, ajoining public roads etc. all worth understanding and within this document: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/5d77afc8e5274a27cdb2c9e9/190910_Tech_Guide_for_publishing.pdf

Hi @MrPotts Sounds a bit like solicitors: Either pay a lot of money for someone to represent you who is suitable qualified and experienced and knows what their doing and will take the responsibility for any errors, OR, learn all about the law regarding your case and represent yourself, taking responsibility for your own failures. In my humble opinion (having designed and installed my own system with guidance from the manufacturers) unfortunately, in retro fitting ASHP's to existing properties there are many many variables, and so a conclusion has to be made based on the individual property requiring a lot of knowledge, understanding and experience. Also I would like to point out that any MCS install needs to be part of the listed MCS accredited installers/companies which cost money and training to achieve. Unlike a boiler, for best results, an ASHP system works most economically when running low and slow, that's low temperature heat and over longer running time. A lot of people don't understand this principle for an efficient ASHP.

Kettling is usually caused by water in the system not passing quick enough out of the heating element in the boiler, causing the heat to 'Boil' the water. The water expands with the steam and looking for somewhere to get out pushes up to the header tank. Either the flow is restricted by gunge, thermostatic valves closing too many radiatiors, or pump not working properly.

Very similar....

Well, here we use CAD, still basically pencils but not quite scaled drawings. The proper name is Childlike Apportioned Details.

And this is the challenge! When we finally have a MVHR that will indicate which temp and programme will give best efficiency for your individual set up, then half the problems will disappear. and you don't even need AI to do it.

Hi @80's Owl Not sure of your set-up but here's a helpful guide. M https://www.thespruce.com/after-reinstalling-sink-reapply-caulking-1822208#:~:text=Undermount sinks are secured beneath,need to be re-tightened.

I would chip off the angle bead, fit insulation board and plasterboard the hole and replaster (a few fixings through the plasterboard and celotex)

I'm with @dpmiller. Please give us a few more photos - some a bit further away so we can understand what is being shown. Otherwise like you its a bit confusing. The first photo seems to show the glass sealed unit with the beading that holds the glass in the frame removed. Is that right?

Hi @JohnMo Yes a lot of small adjustments in construction and as I see it: UFH so not bad really. Only thing that really adds to the heating is a wall of glass To achieve an air temperature of say 21C at about 1.5 meters from the floor (typically the height of thermostat height) in a room with 3.6m ceilings you need to heat the top air about 25% higher... so increased running costs No difference to any other just plan ahead. True, but more/larger MVHR units and ductwork requiring more air to be circulated so really both installation and running cost increase. The biggest cost is the running costs per year, every year, but it's personal choice. They do look lovely in the summer...

Hi @Benpointer The old function versus form challenge! Looks great! However, harder to paint, harder to dust, harder to dress windows, harder to sort out acoustics, harder to heat, harder to cool, harder to light, harder to clean windows, harder to vent, harder to build, but looks great. (or replace the word harder with more costly) As we are some of the poor of the parish, wo chose not to vault any rooms not only from build cost but also running costs, however, you pays your money, you takes your choice. Most people buy on looks anyway, and if its your already home, it may well be worth choosing. Good luck M

Solic immersion Heater controller Model AF2.1 fixed following following @eugen's advice. Replaced C1 capacitor that cost about 60p and saved at least £150 by not replacing it. If anyone has a picture of the insides of the Solic 200 wired controller please would you upload. I think it will be basically the same as the Solic AF2.1. I will put the method of replacing the C1 capacitor with pictures, in a blog in the next few weeks.

I Think its something to do with the software...

Contacted Coolenergy. Who were very helpful and as I had a reasonable understanding of the whole system we were able to go through things on the phone. Problem seemed to be related to hot water heating function as since emailing Coolenergy I had set the Carel to heating and it had started heating, but when turned on to hot water - no compressor or fan. Changing various setting as instructed changed the fan speed from low to normal and the hot water started working again.. This may have been a blip of some sort. However, I will do some tests over the next few days.... Here's pictures of the Carel programmer:

Hi @ProDave "Self builder in the Highlands. See my build blog here http://www.willowburn.net Heading for retirement and planning our "adventure before dementia""🤣🤣🤣🤣 Will do.

Hi @JohnMo Yes. When turning back on alarm message shows power was off so reset. Emailed Cool energy with problem...

Inspected ASHP. No indication of any outside problems: Fan free to turn. Pressure levels hi and low at 0.9barish. No obstructions to the grills. Inside: No alarm codes.

We have a Cool energy ASHP CE-iVT9 which has stopped working. It has a Carel control system and has been working fine since July 2021. The symptoms are: Power on and Carel active Hot water and or Heating demand can be chosen but no heat delivered. Heating on with demand: Carel indicates heating chosen, temperature 10 degrees below set temperature, pump on, no fan and no compressor. What checks can I make to identify the problem? I am going to inspect ASHP now in case of freezing?? M

What's this! Today's challange!! Hi @Russdl Yup @Russell griffiths Idea will do it, however sometimes multi grips not big enough so another choice:

Hi @Dillsue Of course your right. What sort of price are they to purchase for each panel?? It maybe something for us in the future. Am I right that they will protect the rest of the string if one of the panels is shaded? Another thought. can I use different rated Voltage/Amperage panels (I am looking at a very close range)? Every day is a school day for me... Thanks M