Marvin

You know more than me.. we obtained approval for our 6kW inverter so all's fine for us. As I understand it G100 limits exportation: No export allowed (G100 applies) – this means all electricity produced by the embedded generation must be utilised on the premises. It may be that a different type of inverter or controls are required... you tell me. M

Hi @richard_scotland Bear in mind that it is quite difficult to mix PV panels. Having investigated this when considering increasing the amount of panels for our home a couple of things came to light. If you add PV panels to an existing system it's complicated to do unless the panels are exactly the same as the existing (not just the same manufacturer but voltage and amperage) as 1 different panel added to a string would effect the output from all the panels. Unless you install a special system, if you have some panels shaded or facing a different direction from the others on the same string, the outputs of all the panels on the same string will be effected. Best of luck. M

Our DNO would only use the upper export limit of the Inverter in their calculation. Their opinion was that lower adjusted exporting limits on Inverters could be inadvertently altered and so certainty of requirements being followed.

Hi @tdansmith Sorry if you know all this. Just some thoughts off your original posting.. The SSE, (Distribution Network Operator: DNO) valuated our system by the maximum the certified inverter would allow into the grid, not by how many panels we have (In fact the inverter allows about 25% more panels than that its limited wattage). Think carefully about future requirements! its costly to upgrade.. for several reasons.. I'm not sure about the design of the system your considering but please check that the battery storage capacity in your design would not be included in your DNO's calculation of how much power could flow back to the grid. ( as I understand it it batteries need to be controlled by the inverter and the inverter is limited, not the inverter and then the batteries meaning that both lots could go back to the grid) Not sure that you would not end up potentially crossing phases trying to supply from batteries more than one phase. Sounds like a high end inverter to do that.... Storing 15kW is only half the consideration. You also have to consider the maximum power level. Batteries have a limited percentage of their stored power that they can efficiently discharge. In my opinion low and slow is the order of the day.... Here's a tool to help you see what a 3.6kW system would do over the year. Start by zooming in to your home and then adding your proposed data. https://re.jrc.ec.europa.eu/pvg_tools/en/tools.html I would suggest you look at the potential supply month by month and your requirement month by month. Good luck M

My humble opinion is that you insulate the ..... out of any of the system which is outside the building thermal envelope. I have 400mm of fluffy over the MVHR box and about the same over the ducts... Good luck M

Multi tools are far better. I have even used a home made depth restrictor to only cut through the plaster board and not cut proud cables behind it. I also cut out the hole size in a piece of hardboard to use as a pencil jig and use it with my laser level to mark positions on walls. I then have a quick level rectangle drawn on the wall ready to cut using the multitool and vacuum. If its soft block behind the plasterboard I use the multitool on that as well... Every day is a school day. Like the PVA idea.

Hi @RobLe Thanks for the info. Not knowing the acronyms I assume caps are capacitors and acrms means AcRMS?? (so what your saying is that the grid current is often quite high??) Every days a school day (including yesterday all day) M

Hi @canalsiderenovation, @eugen, @Klam Etal. Thanks for this thread. I have a Solic which suddenly had the power light go orange (Yes both green and red at the same time) so the same capacitor problem! Its the old AF2.1 model and I didn't want to install a different one. I will load up progress here as I go. Marvin.

It's not the tiles that decide the overlap but the possibility of water being able to run underneath the overlap. Abutments can cause a wind funnel and therefore if it rains the wind can force the rain up the join!

Hi @karatekaren Actually looking at the picture again I realise it's an abutment flashing An abutment flashing is used to bridge the void where roof sheets meet a vertical wall, to provide a weathertight seal. What is the reccomended overlap of adjoining abutment flashings? The minimum ovelap of adjoining abutment flashings should be 150mm.

Don't know why there is the triangle. Each lead sheet along the joint should be no longer than 1.5 metres. If the lead is cut any longer it could lead to splitting of the lead work due to expansion and contraction. When fitting flashings they should overlap by a minimum of 100mm. Good luck Marvin

Building sites may be busy but insolvencies in construction are rampant: https://bcis.co.uk/news/construction-insolvencies-latest-news/ Lots of consolidation also happening... https://www.constructionnews.co.uk/financial/ma/?block_id=3 I am impressed with the ability of borrowers to afford the mortgages and I hope they continue to do so however..... https://www.credit-connect.co.uk/news/value-of-mortgages-in-arrears-hits-21-9bn/ Time will tell. I wish you all luck Marvin

I assume there is no chimneys on the party wall.....

Thanks to the help from posters in my last post I understand about how different voltage/amperage panels on the same string can cause loss of power. I have an existing 6KW Grid tied system with 2 MPPTs. I think I will need three or 4 MPPTs to be able to add different panels (old ones no longer available) to the system. Is there an economical way I can change my system? Any ideas? Marvin

the 320 Watt panels are also Longi. Longi 320W.pdf

Thanks for all the replies. I am a little ahead of the game with some items: The DNO permission is based on the maximum the inverter will allow to supply back to the grid which is 6000W The Inverter can cope with 7980 Watts of panels in the UK. The Inverter has 2 strings (MTTP) which can run up to 4000W max each. The existing set up has 16 x 320Watt panels = 5120W which is 64% of potential String 1 7 panels 2,240 Watts 56% String 2 9 panels 2,880 Watts 72% The Inverter is capable of taking the amperage. The solar DC cable is 6mm and about two separate 27m loops The AC cable from the inverter is 22m of 6mm clipped direct with some conduit/trunking - easily capable of taking 6kW. Hi @JohnMo Thanks for the link. I have now read it and it is clear to me. I will now calculate what the results would be.

I have 16 Longi 320W panels and wish to add some more but they are now discontinued I have found the LONGi Solar Hi-MO 6 435WP Black Frame PV Module LR5-54HTH-435M (435Watt) Technical details: 320Watts panels 435Watt panels STC NOCT STC NOCT Power 320 237.1 Power 435 325 Voc\V 40.9 38.2 Voc\V 39.33 36.93 Vmp\V 33.9 31.3 Vmp\V 33.04 30.15 Is it ok to mix them? If not, what specification would be better if I cannot obtain exactly the same. If so what are the pros and cons. Any guidance would be appreciated. M

Yes and going forward it's the capability of electricity companies being able to dump energy into your EVs - trials recently being carried out....

Hi @marsh3377 Personally I would want to know how many properties are connected to the manhole at the front, how deep the manhole is in the ground and how big the diameter of the pipe is. For your information recent discussions I have recently had indicated that the 3 metre distance is measured from the nearest part of the building footings to the nearest outside edge of the foul pipe, not from the external brickwork face to the centre of the pipe. There were also discussions about the type of ground and the 45 degree angle of load bearing from the bottom of proposed foundations. in the picture below I do not think that the footings would be permitted because they would put a load on the sewer pipe (although saying this it is possible but not without further protection... complicated. You need to know how many properties are connected to the manhole at the front, how deep the manhole is in the ground and how big the diameter of the pipe is, and this information will give you some indication of the challenges. And finally as @Conor said above the records saying where the pipe is may be wrong. At the back of the properties down our side of the street the main sewer is 4 metres nearer to the buildings than the records show! That the difference between planned positions and "as built"!!!! Good luck Marvin

Hi @bobbyb Is your bungalow a timber frame with brick/block external wall? Is your location very exposed to driving rain? Are the external walls painted? and as @Conor asks have you got a foot of insulation in your loft?

Hi @Steve law You must love taking on a challenge.... Digging deep foundations requires thought about the depth proposed, the proximity of other buildings and the extent to the site is owned in my opinion. Start with all that information and you should get the best relevant responses. Good luck Marvin Oh and of course nearest trees and service runs... and?

Hi @Alwayslearning22 If your determined to fit a high powered shower over a bath then the Milano Nero looks the right sort of choice to me. The key to this is the bath rim and levelness. If you directly message me I will guide you through how I would fit the screen. Good luck M

Hi @Markuz Are you designing the Enerphit retrofit yourself or are consultants/architects designing it all? Very important to understand at this stage. Your first post on the subject suggests that this is your goal and it may not be achieved. This could be a funds issue - which we all face - or the fact that you are leading the design decisions. Anyway, it sound exciting and I would make the following comments: In my opinion the best way to have low energy use in a property is not to use it, which means insulating the building to within an inch of it's life (if you want a comfortable temperature in the building) to start with. This will save you more than anything else you can do as heating is the number one energy user! We have no heating unless the outside temperature is constantly below 12C during the day. If I was designing our bungalow retrofit again I would have considered how to handle excess heat from the cooking/kitchen equipment, utility equipment and solar gain more. Our biggest bug is overheating. Good luck Marvin

Replace the radiator and coat the new radiator with uric acid resistant paint and tell them the next one they pay for.

Hi @Alwayslearning22 In my experience being a bathroom fitter, it also depends on the lip of the bath. Some have a sloped top rim slopped towards the inside of the bath so when the water runs down the bath screen on the inside it naturally wants to go towards the plug hole and not the bathroom floor. Some bath rims are uneven and can be high at the corner and lower along the side making the tight fit glass up against the tiles right but the far end off the top of the bath rim. You may be thinking that that's ok because you can angle the glass down but this can also cause a low spot between the beginning and end of the glass-bath fitting. It also depends how strong the shower is and what direction the water is directed. I have always found that curtains alone cause water to leak down the side of the bath between the curtain and tiles unless the curtain returns along the wall a bit. Short glass panels with the curtain inside are better but can still leak depending again if the top rim of the bath falls towards the plug hole. Hinged glass panels often leak at the end of the bottom glass seal next to the hinge area, and again the water can run along the rim unless the rim falls towards the bath. As a belt and braces I always seal the bath panel on all edges - to the tiles bath flooring and or boxing. At least you can then see if there is a problem and clear it up. There may be some of the expensive glass screen panels that don't leak but I always inform clients that there is this risk. In the picture, the top of the bath seems to be sloped towards the plug hole and has a good amount of width to help. In my opinion this would be a better design than a small or hinged glass panel. The Milano Nero looks ok because it has a lipped seal on the internal sliding glass panel stopping the water from finding a route between the two glass panels. The installation instructions are a bit vague and the Big Bathroom Shop pictures showing the details are confusing unless you recognise that they show a left hand opening one! Milano Nero requires the side of the bath to be flat all the way along as well as level. All achievable, but needs accuracy. Frameless_Bath_Screen.pdf I have attached a copy of the installations instructions for your perusal. These have been my experiences and my opinion after installing over 300 bathrooms, and every day is still a school day for me! Good luck. Marvin