Marvin

Hi @G and J Yes my brother always said "it's all relative" Although I must add that this was predicted in the 1970's...

Hi @SteamyTea I don't know! Scientist looking into their crystal balls and trying to predict the future! 🙄 And now scientists are saying that its going to get worse and that average global temperatures are going to rise and we need to do something about it. Surely everyone wants a nice crispy sun tan and when the crops fail there will be less obesity so that's good. It will certainly reduce my winter heating bill! Remember all this when designing your building's thermal envelope, storm drainage, flood plain evaluation, localise flooding around the building, wind load on windows, roof design, structural strength and so on. People talk about their forever homes. Well if that's what it is then it will need to be built with forever climate change in mind, not just to todays weather. Good luck to you all Marvin

Hi @Alan Ambrose Could it be this stuff? https://unitedcivilssupplies.co.uk/shop/twinwall-drainage/300mm-solid-unperforated-twinwall-surface-water-pipe-x-6m/ Perhaps they have fittings to help. M

On the list...

Try using an MVHR when your neighbour has a smokey wood burner....

What's going to be above the soakaway? grass? driveway? ... I think ours had to be at least 500mm down to the top....

Hi @SteamyTea When the outside temperature rises above 12C we have to take action to avoid overheating. In the Spring/ Autumn it's fine because we open windows and also the temperature drops overnight thus cooling the bungalow. However the summer is a different thing. I think that I will have to do a study of this building to see what is what. I admit there is a list of design failings which I want to address....

Hi @SteamyTea I think both because if you have a thermally resistant enough thermal envelope to keep the summer heat out, you will have a thermally resistant enough thermal envelope to keep heat produced in the building by solar gain through smaller windows, cooking, fridges and freezers, running hot water, digesting food, lights, broadband, tv, laptops, phone chargers, replacement air to the building and so on in the house so it will soon heat up. I'm surprised with your answer because you're usually spot on.

You need battery back-up for all the excess day time energy..

Hi @patp Do you have mechanical ventilation? Marvin.

Hi @JamesPa This comment was from the view point of my limited understanding. The cable is only about 6 metres long. Technically a 1.5mm multicore could have been installed, but we were advised to use larger because of possible voltage drop during startup? I notice on the most recent Coolenergy ASHP's there indicating a type C MCB, so things have moved on.

Our ASHP installation instructions stipulated a Type B and we were advised to ensure a healthy size of cable to avoid voltage loss as we were told that the ASHP was sensitive to voltage drop. Four year and no problems so far... M.

In the late 1970's I read MAD magazine where they had cartoon scripts, some of which were about how different things would be in the future due to a hotter climate etc. Low and behold we're facing what they wrote about. This must be a coincidence. Surely we didn't have the science then to see this coming. Surely people would have listened during the last 50 years. Surely the majority of the people ( and therefore the deciding factor about what the priorities are) would have decided to change the way we all live and not face such a future. Apparently not. I've given up on humanity and concentrate on doing my bit where I can. As the planet's climate changes swiftly now, but humans still resist adapting quickly enough the outlook is bleak. Some individual rights will have to be superseded by population rights or we will lose all hope as a race. On a positive note all this sun and rain has brought on my potatoes a treat. Good luck Marvin

Hi @G and J Yes, a FENSA certificate covers the replacement of external windows, doors, roof windows and roof lights in domestic properties in line with building regulations in domestic properties but only if the property is on its original footprint and the use and size of the rooms have not been altered. This relates only to installations after 1st April 2002. The FENSA certificate confirms compliance with building regulations, ensures the installations are registered with the local council and shows the installation is energy efficient. It is worth noting that compliance and registration are required by law, both of which are covered with FENSA certification. FENSA certification does not cover conservatories, porches, new builds or commercial properties. It seems to be more about ensuring the windows were installed to the building regulations standard and that the windows etc conform with the thermal resistance requirements....

lets see if they can work out which room my wife is in...

Hi @haythorn_1 Personally I would count the risks. For me: 1. I would want the supplier to measure and take responsibility for any errors or the installers to measure and take responsibility for any errors. 2. You haven't commented on the cost of the windows or their size - both things that are significant when installing. 3. you would have to check with others but my opinion is your better doing it yourself if you know and understand what is required. I assume you would be putting the fire stops in at the same time.. 4. If there ali clad timber windows I don't see you getting a scratch out of them like upvc windows, and this goes back to number 2: I would want to be sure the installers have successfully and properly installed Ali clad windows before. Don't forget how you are going to achieve the required FENSA certificate. Good luck Marvin

Hi @SilverShadow Here's some over kill: https://www.phxwater.co.uk/guide-to-domestic-water-tank-cleaning-and-disinfection/ Good luck Marvin

Hi @Rich2123 Welcome. When we installed one we chose the type (back boiler or not) and output (how many kW of heat) to start with and then checked the installation instruction on how big the hole and hearth needed to be, ensuring the lintel stretched across the gap (about 30mm wider than stated to allow for sand and cement plaster.) Then we propped above the top of the lintel height using an Acrow and a "strong boy" and cut the hole for the lintel and installed it before cutting the sides. Others will have their preferred methods... Good luck Marving

Hi @kandgmitchell I think its the error code for when the power was cut. I understand Heat pumps are very touchy about having the correct voltage. My heat pump (not the same brand) did a similar thing. I think its showing the last error and will probably log them - mine does. And then we reset ours and the message change Oh just found this to help: https://professional.vaillant.co.uk/downloads/aproducts/renewables-1/arotherm-plus/appliance-interface-operating-and-installation-instructions-1799367.pdf Good luck Marvin

Hi @canalsiderenovation There are many, many alternatives to be seen which will potentially produce energy. In my humble opinion ( having looked at no end of options) the devil is in the detail (in this case otherwise known as the mathematics). I would first play around with the maths. This will give you an understanding of how much energy you can achieve from what set up (assuming no drought): https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/hydropower-d_1359.html Good Luck Marvin

😂

Unrolled EDPM. Half up first, 2nd half up after. converted garage flat roof...

This all seems nuts to me. The Netherlands and Australia are starting to charge people for absorbing excess PV energy as the amount of PV has risen so much beyond their needs during their summer.(another use for a smart meter!).The UK has only a small amount of energy storage capability and then we have to keep the power stations operable for when we don't have enough during the winter. When this is figured out we can save having a power station or two idle most of the time. How much do they cost now? £Billions? We produce about twice what we use but still have to buy in because we can't store it for the winter.

Hi @Jeffb All good info above. I choose EDPM every time, however the neighbours GRP is also a good product (But I have never installed GRP) I used EDPM. 5m by 12m. on OSB. Put it on myself. One piece plus bits, and the PVA type glue. Fixed a few of these over the years. Definitely excellent for sheds but you have to use the contact adhesive on pitched roofs and vertical surfaces. I have used https://www.rubba-seal.co.uk/ for all my EDPM. There are others. Good luck Marvin