Marvin

Hi @TheMitchells I think your right on that point, however, consideration has to be taken of the first lines of the planning regulations as well. ....provided ALL the limits and conditions below are met. This includes the MCS 020 requirements page 15 onward: https://mcscertified.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/MCS-020.pdf I could not say if the ASHP will meet those requirements, especially, as it has not been identified yet. Good luck Marvin

err. not sure what you mean...

Hi @TheMitchells This would depend on whether you have a tank in the grounds or if you have to use bottled gas. Having installed bottled gas boiler in our bungalow and replaced it with an ASHP, we prefer the ASHP. However we have PV on the roof which supplements the cost of running it, and a very well insulated bungalow. An ASHP is most efficient when the difference in temperature between the outside air and the temperature of the water leaving the ASHP is the smallest. The calculated size of the gas boiler radiators would be smaller than ASHP radiators because the water temperature is usually run lower for best economy. We have larger radiators (with obviously more surface for heat to come off of) that are cooler and this make for the best result. Good luck Marvin

Hi @TheMitchells No matter what you do, increase the loft insulation to 300mm where you can. Ditto. And yet they say they will do them after..... If you are going to increase airtightness I assume you are going to use or have trickle vents in the windows. I think this will assume that 1/3 of the volume of the air in the building per hour will be replaced by outside air and therefore in winter produce a calculable heat loss. Pipework from the outside ASHP would be better run inside the thermal envelope of the building unless wrapped in a layer of 300mm loft insulation. Can you mark the position of proposed outside unit on the plan? I see you need a hot water tank. Will you need a buffer tank as you have underfloor heating and radiators? Where are they proposing to put the underfloor heating manifolds? Good luck Marvin

Hi @ Bazza Any chance of photo a bit further away as well? It helps to get an understanding of the general layout. personally I would like to see at least two foot al the way round to help understand how its meant to be. Good luck Marvin

Hi @SteamyTea I think this may be of interest to you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKiBlGDfRU8

That's going to the first time for a while. All the graphs I see over the last 7 years show them broadly following the same pattern. Check it out: Search for graphs of UK gas and electricity prices images. However supplementing with PV helps and if energy storage became even cheaper we would have more energy than we need for the whole year, then we could tell the grid to (AWAY)

Hi @G and J Yes my brother always said "it's all relative" Although I must add that this was predicted in the 1970's...

Hi @SteamyTea I don't know! Scientist looking into their crystal balls and trying to predict the future! 🙄 And now scientists are saying that its going to get worse and that average global temperatures are going to rise and we need to do something about it. Surely everyone wants a nice crispy sun tan and when the crops fail there will be less obesity so that's good. It will certainly reduce my winter heating bill! Remember all this when designing your building's thermal envelope, storm drainage, flood plain evaluation, localise flooding around the building, wind load on windows, roof design, structural strength and so on. People talk about their forever homes. Well if that's what it is then it will need to be built with forever climate change in mind, not just to todays weather. Good luck to you all Marvin

Hi @Alan Ambrose Could it be this stuff? https://unitedcivilssupplies.co.uk/shop/twinwall-drainage/300mm-solid-unperforated-twinwall-surface-water-pipe-x-6m/ Perhaps they have fittings to help. M

On the list...

Try using an MVHR when your neighbour has a smokey wood burner....

What's going to be above the soakaway? grass? driveway? ... I think ours had to be at least 500mm down to the top....

Hi @SteamyTea When the outside temperature rises above 12C we have to take action to avoid overheating. In the Spring/ Autumn it's fine because we open windows and also the temperature drops overnight thus cooling the bungalow. However the summer is a different thing. I think that I will have to do a study of this building to see what is what. I admit there is a list of design failings which I want to address....

Hi @SteamyTea I think both because if you have a thermally resistant enough thermal envelope to keep the summer heat out, you will have a thermally resistant enough thermal envelope to keep heat produced in the building by solar gain through smaller windows, cooking, fridges and freezers, running hot water, digesting food, lights, broadband, tv, laptops, phone chargers, replacement air to the building and so on in the house so it will soon heat up. I'm surprised with your answer because you're usually spot on.

You need battery back-up for all the excess day time energy..

Hi @patp Do you have mechanical ventilation? Marvin.

Hi @JamesPa This comment was from the view point of my limited understanding. The cable is only about 6 metres long. Technically a 1.5mm multicore could have been installed, but we were advised to use larger because of possible voltage drop during startup? I notice on the most recent Coolenergy ASHP's there indicating a type C MCB, so things have moved on.

Our ASHP installation instructions stipulated a Type B and we were advised to ensure a healthy size of cable to avoid voltage loss as we were told that the ASHP was sensitive to voltage drop. Four year and no problems so far... M.

In the late 1970's I read MAD magazine where they had cartoon scripts, some of which were about how different things would be in the future due to a hotter climate etc. Low and behold we're facing what they wrote about. This must be a coincidence. Surely we didn't have the science then to see this coming. Surely people would have listened during the last 50 years. Surely the majority of the people ( and therefore the deciding factor about what the priorities are) would have decided to change the way we all live and not face such a future. Apparently not. I've given up on humanity and concentrate on doing my bit where I can. As the planet's climate changes swiftly now, but humans still resist adapting quickly enough the outlook is bleak. Some individual rights will have to be superseded by population rights or we will lose all hope as a race. On a positive note all this sun and rain has brought on my potatoes a treat. Good luck Marvin

Hi @G and J Yes, a FENSA certificate covers the replacement of external windows, doors, roof windows and roof lights in domestic properties in line with building regulations in domestic properties but only if the property is on its original footprint and the use and size of the rooms have not been altered. This relates only to installations after 1st April 2002. The FENSA certificate confirms compliance with building regulations, ensures the installations are registered with the local council and shows the installation is energy efficient. It is worth noting that compliance and registration are required by law, both of which are covered with FENSA certification. FENSA certification does not cover conservatories, porches, new builds or commercial properties. It seems to be more about ensuring the windows were installed to the building regulations standard and that the windows etc conform with the thermal resistance requirements....

lets see if they can work out which room my wife is in...

Hi @haythorn_1 Personally I would count the risks. For me: 1. I would want the supplier to measure and take responsibility for any errors or the installers to measure and take responsibility for any errors. 2. You haven't commented on the cost of the windows or their size - both things that are significant when installing. 3. you would have to check with others but my opinion is your better doing it yourself if you know and understand what is required. I assume you would be putting the fire stops in at the same time.. 4. If there ali clad timber windows I don't see you getting a scratch out of them like upvc windows, and this goes back to number 2: I would want to be sure the installers have successfully and properly installed Ali clad windows before. Don't forget how you are going to achieve the required FENSA certificate. Good luck Marvin

Hi @SilverShadow Here's some over kill: https://www.phxwater.co.uk/guide-to-domestic-water-tank-cleaning-and-disinfection/ Good luck Marvin