Marvin

@Barryscotland Like this. PV left. Mains right.

Sounds good, but don't forget a cowl of some sort to stop the rain from entering.. Check that the flat roof joists are not in the way, Watch out that service runs avoid the pipe area ( cable runs for instance) Good luck M

this sort of thing re positions of inlets and outlets

I think inlets also need to be furthest distance from the outlet, so, furthest from the internal door in the bedrooms.

+1 Couldn't that cause the LG to overheat? Or is it going into a buffer tank immersion?

Hi @Matt540 I have learnt yet another thing! Thanks @Temp and @JohnMo 👍👍👍. I will now use this info to check my system!

Damn, Some standing charge!😮

Hi @Matt540 The buffer tank is, designed to avoid short cycling. A cycle begins when the ASHP starts the heating the circulating water, and continues until the return water temperature meets the ASHP "hot enough" set temperature, and then turns off until the water temperature becomes lower than the "turn on" set temperature. The importance of this is that in tests its noted that an ASHP needs to get going before it reaches its best performance (COP) and then when turning off it does the same in reverse. Because of this the ASHP should aim to heat for at least 10min. The problem of Buffer or no Buffer is to do with the quantity of water in each individually controlled emitter zone. We have a buffer and radiators which have TRVs ( TVRs because we get north south solar gain problems). If we didn't have a buffer tank, and only one radiator was to work, the small amount of water in the system (ASHP to one radiator and back) would heat up quite quickly causing the ASHP to short cycle thus being inefficient. So to answer your question in my opinion the reason some use buffers and some don't is dependant on what the ASHP is connected to. It appears that radiators with no TVRs may work and large areas of UFH may work. However as @JohnMo says buffers usually have the option of an immersion to give additional heat in exceptional circumstances like if the ASHP breaks down (assuming like me you have a pump circulating the water from the buffer to the emitters) or a very cold spell. Hope this helps Marvin

And it starts. Notice the £160 standing charge per year! A mere 80% increase. For what? And what's your letter say?

Last time I saw silly prices was in about 2004. One terrace two up two down house which was completely derelict, with not even any plaster on the walls and the rear 2 story extension a good 4 inches away from the rest, sold at auction for the same price as the terrace 9 further along which had been completely done up and was for sale. I knew what that meant then, and I do now. M

5.12kW for us.

Slow cooker runs during day and then ready at 6pm. Even if main oven was less energy overall, too much at 6pm to be produced by PV.

Trickle energy. Yes. Just the 1 at lunch time then.....

Slow cookers are good. Trickle energy....

Low!

Car fully charged. Hot water 🔥 🔥 🔥 House warm. Washing done Dishwasher done Batteries charged. Makita all charged. Phones charged. Laptop charged. chargeable batteries charged Now 3.5kW going to grid....

True @bobberjob we're all waiting for better batteries at a lower price to make the off grid practical. (Yes there are some exceptions) Our 5.12kW PV produces all the power we need in a year, just not when we need it..... However for us we have APE (ASHP, PV and EV) and are driving around for about 3p a mile at the moment and cooling in the summer powered by the PV as well, so some benefits. M

Good point!

It would be a good thing to do a room by room assessment of the heating requirement to be sure before you get the alterations done.

I used my own Excel spread sheet which is complicated, but others here should be able to guide you to a simpler one. If you don't get help finding it by tomorrow, start a new topic asking for it.

Different manufacturers and companies can have different limitations due to frame strengths/ designs. Also it depends on wind loads.

Or ask for approval for expected total amount of batteries and PV as it cost us £ 360.00 a time....

Pipe through fascia, run under window to right, 45 bend into branch. Good luck. Looks lovely! P.S. if the angle ain't quite right warm the pipe up a bit. M

Top right 3 dots

Hi @Johnny Jekyll I think the sizing of your heat source will be related to your hot water demand as my guess is that you will need little heating. Do a heat loss calculation assuming your proposed Airtightness, Insulation and MVHR. (AIM) This will give you an understanding of how much heat you require, however you have to take into account the low temperatures of winter. My understanding is that the low recorded in London was -16C in 1962, and the lowest 24 hour temp was in 1987 at about -8.3C. Good luck Marvin