Marvin

Hi @SBMS Another challenge is splitting the hot water and heating (and in our case cooling). There are several factors regarding trying to calculate the splits. Not as foolish as some of my questions! But one day we will ask the best question ever. We just have to keep asking.

Well its making up for it today!

Hi @SBMS Yes it took me a while to work this one out. Almost everything that uses power creates heat. Put you hand on your WIFI box for instance mine reads about 40 centigrade. Touch the back of the freezer when cooling. I have a temp gun which tells me these things. And as for cooking almost all energy is used for heating and where does the heat go? If you can't stand the heat stay out of the kitchen.... The point is, generally the more power used in the home the more heat supplied other than by the ASHP. Another one is the ratio of people to the house: 2 people here in 100m2. Some 2 people to 300m2. heat from 2 people about 150Watts or 200 when discussing politics or religion. so could be as much as 3.6kWh heat per day. Good luck Marvin

Yes.. not practical at all for me.

Annual rain fall about 470mm over about 180 days.

I hope not to endure wave power, being 200ft above sea level.

Is there a plain English version?

Bottom of the Isle of Wight.

Rainfuel is a concept that has recently come to my attention. Like all inventor types into not wanting to buy power, the mind jumps to having the whole of the north facing roof covered and obtaining power when wet, day or night! The principle seems to be (I am now opening myself to being corrected) that each rain drop falling form the sky has a small charge and collecting all those small charges could produce sensible power. The first things I want to know is will this work in a practical way! In order to work this out my first questions are: How much power per square meter can be produced from what sort of amount of rain: Too little power and I will not bother. What are the limitations to production: rain to light or too heavy (a bit like the challenges with wind power.) Does it have to have the "right sort of rain" Based on local rain records what would be the annual typical output for my roof. Like hydro power this has its problems: The rain usually falls far more during the winter months (well it used to) and so it does hardly anything during the summer months. This means that to manage all the power when at peak-supply the inverter required will have to be very high compared to the average load. What I mean is the system could be doing nothing and then on full throttle. The other thing is what you do with the power supplied. (Used, grid or stored). Obviously there are videos showing this working. but has anyone seen any videos of technical information? In one video the rainwater was taken from a beaker and dripped across a absorber. Can I fill my rain butt and use that water by making it drip? Can I use absorbers in my rainwater down pipe? There are going to be two outcomes to this blog: It will abruptly stop as the results are rubbish It will carry on and on as more information develops. With your help we will have an answer. Marvin.

+1

Ha! Ha! Ha! Ha! People please! what about the other 100 reasons for different results! Some of the biggest are the installation details, right from the thickness of the external insulation to how long the pipes between the ASHP and the Buffer Tank and or hot water tank which is either direct or gravity, possibly different sizes being additionally heated with either a mains or solar excess power system. How insulated the tanks are. Are the tanks in side the thermal envelope or outside. And what about solar gain? How much glass what orientation. Location location location. Here we get about 180 hours more sunlight a year than London. 1 hour every other day on average. Cat flap? Letterbox? Smokers? Cooking habits? Tumble dryer? Elevation? Is the building in shadow? Typical wind direction? In a valley? Wind funnelling caused by other building positions? What about what temperature the inhabitants prefer? Wood burner? MVHR? or other mechanical ventilation? What rate of air change? and on boost? and how long on boost? Internet? TV's running All electrical items inside the thermal envelope (I think they almost all or all produce heat) Internal gym? Internal swimming pool? The way the ASHP is run: Constant same temperature 24 hours a day? On and off different times? Weather compensation? Batteries being charged produce heat. From the PV? UFH? Radiators? Water coils? And as for the airtightness and Insulation well.. Structural elements like steels altering the average thermal resistance. You end up with a scatter graph and 5 dots near each other that can be for 100 different reasons. Glazing We have thermal blinds and curtains and these definitely make a thermal difference. The efficiency of the ASHP? The type of buffer tank with or with out coil? size of the tank. Yes lots of these are little details, but add those small differences together and... Here I have changed a little detail (that I can) one at a time to come up with what works best here with what we have. Good luck! M

Yes. It needs changing.

no

Showing my age now.....

Royal mail?

Energy companies should not have share holders.

Hi @ToughButterCupI think your right, er, to a degree. I think it matters if and when you realise its fake evidence as in recent developments.

What a mess!

+1.

Yes. Different works on the island.... However, only gone up in the last few days....

Isle of wight. 6 yard £295 up from 260

I never just chuck stuff in these days. Always have my circular saw and sledge hammer at the ready. Always pack it like a suitcase ready for a flight ✈ .

Well, phoned for a skip today. The price has gone up more than 10% since last year. Caused by a change in red diesel legislation and an increase in mixed skip rubbish disposal. Glad I only needed one.

.... using @TerryEs way of calculating the energy required to heat air.....

Sorry @Tom I miss understood. But whilst on the subject, for anyone else interested in MVHR's: I think the average temperature here, over the whole year is 7 C. The average temperature in our home is 21C day 19C night. Taking into consideration that when the temp is above 21C the place has to be cooled and energy will be used to cool the internal air and the MVHR will be used to recycle the cool, I wonder how much energy/ money it saves a year. Say three-quarters of the year of 10 degree temp change (some days about the same temp), based on @TerryEs figures, reduced to only 10C change of temperature would be a saving of about 17 kWh a day. Say 25p a kWh that’s about £4.25 a day, for half a year that's about £1,100 a year saving. The box was say 1200, the pipes and insulation say 1800 labour would have been about 1500 so about £4.5k If it was trickle vents on a cold windy winter's day... Ours is a 100m2 bungalow. Trickle vents on a 300m2 one would need more trickle vents so... M