Mattg4321

After applying to local WA via BC for approval, it turns out they refused the application because we have a 600mm rainwater sewer that starts in our garden. Plan attached although it’s incorrect as it’s not as close to the house as shown. After a bit if investigation and various shrubs etc cut back and digging we’ve found the manhole under 4 inches of dirt. It’s the point where 225mm joins 600mm class 3/critical sewer. Then heads off away from the plot. 225mm sewer is currently down the side of the house around 600mm from house. It’s 2.5m away from the corner of proposed extension, but WA want 3.5m as it’s a ‘critical sewer’ Foundations to be over 1m below invert level and manhole to be accessible. We’ve requested a site visit. Hopefully common sense will be applied. Has anyone had similar?

A distance of 150mm through pir is not going to have a big impact on the current carrying capacity.

SWA glanded and stripped back to the internal bedding (it’s not insulation or sheathing) is not suitable to be run outside of containment.

A lot of trades (most?) are terrible at organisation and communication. It drives me mad as I have to work alongside them and occasionally subcontract work to them. The upside is I often pick up good, well paying work that somebody else hasn’t shown up to/hasn’t bothered to price for etc etc. The customers are usually very grateful and will recommend me as somebody reliable. My point being that you need to find someone who actually wants to do the work. That’s probably easier said than done, but they are out there.

He just doesn’t want to do it. As a rule I won’t test/certify the work of third parties, other than via EICR (which isn’t a certificate, rather a report). I find the work is always not to my standards or liking, and even if on the surface it is, I don’t know what’s lurking hidden. Many people will though. Have a ring around

Better if there’s no joints in the cable and run swa all the way.

Or Quinetic transmitter and receiver

Will a 13 amp supply be enough to run what you need in the hut? Assume the temp power you have available is TT earth (rod) and 30mA RCD fitted? Whatever you do, don’t buy that SY cable extension lead. Totally unsuitable for the task. As much as air con guys like to use it outside, it perishes in UV light eventually. Some people seem to think it’s a substitute for SWA! It isn’t. I find it hard to see how they’ve effectively earthed the braiding too. It should be something like H07-RNF flex. It all depends on the likelihood of damage in the particular situation though. Probably best to get some advice off your electrician.

Or don’t use them at all?

Probably never had any on there to start with? Looks fairly old?

Integral are generally decent. I’ve used them quite a lot over the years. Even they can’t make a reliable G9 though.

You could almost certainly keep the plate and just change the internals (module). https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/VLJP400MOD.html?source=adwords&ad_position=&ad_id=&placement=&kw=&network=x&matchtype=&ad_type=pla&product_id=VLJP400MOD&product_partition_id=&campaign=shopping&version=finalurl_v3&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA7t6sBhAiEiwAsaieYqWrl83urJ3xjMQcgXvuTyO_q4sro0nKdZjBamuGj_j3ei7Ncl5wzxoCGZ4QAvD_BwE

Knightsbridge dimmers are poor quality. I only fit Varilight V pro in general. They work well with 90% plus bulbs/fittings.

Just go with Click. Mode for white. Or Deco or Definity for Matt black finish. Much better quality than Knightsbridge imo.

Hard wired is always better for everything if possible. More reliable No battery changes Easier/cheaper to fix or replace for someone unfamiliar with the property More reliable! The amount of times I have to troubleshoot wireless heating controls that plumbers have supplied. Drives me mad.

https://www.labcwarranty.co.uk/technical-blog/guide-to-creating-weatherproof-parapet-walls?hs_amp=true This is informative to someone with only basic knowledge (me!)

Not that I take too much notice and as above I’m no expert, but that seems like an unusual design and something I’ve never seen (at least noticed) before. To me it looks as though it’s missing a capping piece or coping stone etc, although it’s obviously been designed this way. Mortar isn’t waterproof so surely it’s inevitable water will find its way into the cavity. Ok, this should be dealt with, but it’s far from ideal. I’m sure someone more knowledgeable than me will be able to comment soon though

Sorry to hear about this. Do you have any pictures of the top of the parapet wall? I’m not an expert, but it sounds like trouble if what I’m imagining is accurate. Surely there should be an overhang though? Parapet walls are notorious for causing problems though, that much I do know.

Doubt you’ll get anywhere. There’s loads like this on the market. They all end up causing the lamp to overheat and fail prematurely. Might be worth a go though if you can be bothered.

Well I suppose it might’ve actually been Germany pre Potsdam!

G9’s are pony, always have been and always will be! The G4 being the only lamp that is worse! Especially if they are fitted into an enclosed fitting they’ll constantly fail. I never recommend G9 fittings to my customers for that reason. I still fit quite a few and always warn the customer that they will be replacing lamps regularly, otherwise I get phone calls! Having said the above, some brands are significantly better than others. I do such a good job of avoiding supplying these things I’m not sure which though!

Or a standard 2 gang dimmer and replace one module for a ‘dummy’ on/off module.

Must admit I’ve never had reason to look for these and always assumed they were now obsolete as I’ve never seen them fitted new or being sold anywhere. 20 years in the trade, learn something new most weeks.

Looks like all you had to mask up in that room was the window. It’s a pain if there much more than that though right?

Saxby Atlantis are very good quality if you like the styling