saveasteading

Does this help? I have one of these connected to a towel radiator element. IPX5 rated, £40 Toolsatation. The only issue was that it is in-line with the power, so had to draw cables to it as well as the rad heating element. It is very convenient. When the hot water is not going to the rad, we usually just push the green button and it works for 2 hours. Otherwise the controls are for 20% steps in power, not on a timer.

Welcome to the friendly, helpful club. There is so much to know. After 45 years in the industry I am still learning, including a lot from the members on Buildhub. I suggest you find contributors here who have done something similar, and then absorb knowledge and advice. A blog of the whole process is particularly useful, especially the summaries on completion. My first tip is from recent experience of buying a plot. The lauded Scottish system of buying, with fixed offers and acceptance does not appear to apply to land and conversion sites. Two places that had been on the market for many years with little interest suddenly had 'lots of interest' ,and better offers, exceeding the suggested sum. Moral: you have to study the possibilities very thoroughly, but also don't get too attached. And the second is COST. I think most projects go a long way over budget. The site has to be the right price but also influences the building. Good luck, and ask questions.

Last time I used them the price to the public included fitter's margin, and they genuinely discouraged the public (fair enough) by giving the higher price.. If still the case, then you need the trade price, and it may be more than 20%. Also, I remember they had a computerised costing system. I was advised to add another accessory to go over some figure, and the total came down.

Radon dpm appears to be under £1/m2 so is the easy solution on a small floor area. Lots of suppliers online and if screwfix have it, it is clearly mainstream.

I like this design a lot, and have drawn it into my ideas book, as headroom may be a concern. But I like the idea anyway, so simple. PeterW: Have you done this, or seen it done? Re acoustics. The addition of the pug will reduce air-born sound, but not impact sound. The insulation shown between joists will reduce a large proportion of airborne and impact sound. There remains some sound of impact as there is direct, solid structure from floor to ceiling. If the 2 floors are both yours then I think this is a decent domestic solution. If not, then please tell. The most severe acoustic spec I have dealt with was for a music practice room adjoining a maths classroom. That gets complex and expensive, but it can be done. Foam sheet or rockwool batt under the top board, plasterboard for density (like the pug) on the next board, and a suspended sprung ceiling. hung from the joists. Probably not needed by you.

Practically, you can easily close the 'overflow' onto your roof when the time comes. From appearances the main issue is that their downpipe is rather small, especially with the flow splashing in from the gutter under discussion. ditto yours but from a smaller roof. Also, with an internal gutter it is good practice to have 2 outlets in case one is blocked, but this gutter is big and the flow small. I think the easy answer, if amenable, is to close off your 'overflow', see how it goes but possibly add another rwp to theirs or change to a bigger one. Once the water is going vertically, it is sorted. The ultimate test is always 'what happens if the gutter or pipe is blocked? In this case, if the plastic gutter overflows, then no harm is done. Or it would need a very big problem to block the lead gutter, but the consequences could be bad.....but they built it. I suggest design what you want in principle, and then there will surely be a solution.

That is all rather beautifully built, by the looks of it. The amount of water off their rear half is quite low, but very deliberately controlled onto your roof. The upstand halfway ensures that you normally get only that area of water, but in a downpour, or if a pipe is blocked, it can overflow back to yours. It is quite clever in protecting the neighbour's property. The upstand idea is something I have dome a few times to send water the way I wanted, ( to barrel for example) but allow full flow in extremes. Without getting into the legalities, you might have to agree to revise this arrangement. Assuming that their forward downpipe cannot take all the water, then you will need another solution. That will depend on what you want to build. could be a pipe picking up that water (best not) or an additional outlet or overflow from their eaves gutter. The gutter looks substantial for the area of roof. What about the downpipe?

Assuming next door foundations come onto your land, (as we are assuming, but which they should not), then you should dig against the brick wall until you expose the top of the concrete footing, then down the face of the footing until the bottom. Then measure down to the bottom. This will be on your land. While at it take all measurements, horizontal and vertical for the cross-section drawing you can then share here. From this you will know that you can go equally as deep. It doesn't matter that your site slopes away as this is the point that matters. Do that first then tell us all. Measure and take pictures. show your Architect and Engineer. In principle if you find 0.9 or 1m or so, then no problems at all. If less, then your Engineer might argue that you should do exactly the same, as it has worked for a long time. If much less then clever design will be required, such as a raft to spread the load without going so deep.....but that is not our job here as we can give advice and suggestions but not detailed designs . This will be a big hole if it has to go down 900mm. You will need working space, somewhere to take the earth out of the way, and you will not want to do it twice. It might be wide for 600 depth, and then a narrower trench down the concrete face. A good labourer will likely do it in an hour or so, plus barrowing time. Safety considerations are required, both while digging (hole collapse) and when the hole is left open (risk of falling in). Consider whether there are any drains there before starting. This hole will later have to be refilled, thoroughly and compacted, but not until it has been seen and recorded. good luck.

(Get that hole dug and get back to us ?). Then there may be other solutions that are shallower. Raft foundation only about 450 deep. (Just to reduce another worry: I saw an earlier worry about builder costs if aborted. They can only claim reasonable loss of earnings. Keep an eye on whether they are busy elsewhere)

If you summarise what you now know, I think you will realise all is ok. The PWA itself can be tricky to read but there are well explained summaries with sketches online. Your concerns re demo understood. To remove the apparent risk and real worry, explain to the neighbour first, with an independent letter perhaps, and drawing, and have the argument before building. More likely it is shown to the family QS who says 'fair enough'. Your Architect and/or Engineer can show the cross section relative to the neighbouring house with a big NOTE ON IT.. " the new foundations are not below the neighbours therefore the Party Wall Act is not an issue. approx. 800 gap left is ample for access." In the unlikely event that neighbour still complained, after the event, you will be seen to have been utterly reasonable throughout.

The SAP assessment programme is rather unrealistic. It also used to have some errors, such as extra insulation sometimes making it worse, and there were some boxes to tick that no-one quite understood. Perhaps improved now. Your assessor can only do so much within the parameters, and so needs a change from you. If you are looking for such a small improvement then I agree that you could agree to add PV. Then fit it when budget allows, or you have chosen the ideal supplier with due care over the next year or so. It is getting cheaper and better so no harm in taking your time.

You have lots of interest and support here. Can we have a simple sketch to ensure we understand fully? The party wall act is process, not a prohibition. If you tell us what you really want to do, maybe it can be done.

Ahhh. Their wall is on the boundary? With foundations into your ground? Whatever, 600mmshould be enough.

Was the letter from a QS or the neighbour? Always worth remembering that a QS is acting for their client. Their profession does not require them to be fair to you, or give the whole argument. So the 'needs 1.5m' appears to be a bluff. But check the deeds. I think it would be reasonable to build the same distance as their wall is from the boundary, if that suits you. Otherwise what were they thinking when they built there? Scaffold towers are available 600 wide, and from tube can be skinnier yet. You would no doubt allow the scaffold to straddle the boundary if necessary. And I suggest re the party wall act, and distance to boundary, you get a professional to summarise the situation and legalities, with reference to the deeds, PWA and your design. Then drop a copy to the neighbour, as a courtesy (really to put it on the record) ..'.this is why it does not come under the party wall act'. and is allowed to be 600/800 from the boundary. And make absolutely sure your builder doesn't go 1 cm deeper than intended, on that wall, as that neighbour will be watching. Will you have enough space to build safely and well, without straying onto their side of the wall? It is not your fault that the neighbour is making a fuss. They appear to be mistaken in their understanding, or just bullying (or hoping for the best). If you give in, you will likely grudge it forever. If you fall out, then so what? Doesn't look as if you are going to best mates anyway.

I have never understood the attraction of western red cedar in the uk, other than it looks nice for a while. (I don't know about uk cedar) Marketed as insect and rot-proof, but so is tanalised / protimised pine. Nice and pink in all the brochures, grey soon in reality, with possible stains. Stainless steel fixings required. Unsuitable for polluted areas. Expensive I'd be interested to hear an alternative argument.

Looks right to me, as you are taking out an awful lot of wall, and putting the load on this one point. Sand/Clay doesn't isn't relevant and SE will have allowed accordingly. The ambitious knocking out of walls makes the solution difficult and has costs. You might want to avoid going deeper as you get into party wall issues. However, if neighbour is friendly and reasonable they might agree that it doesn't have to get formal. Talk to SE about that. You can't make the pad too asymmetrical either. Poss to link the 2 pads inside the house so that you can bring in the outer edge. ie a continuous beam with a lot of reinforcement? as above. Ask. Also note that the outside found'n clashes with a drain pipe. The pipe is making the outer edge of the pad pretty useless.. Another reason to bring inwards. If it remains in conflict with the found'n, then the pipe needs to be wrapped with polystyrene before pouring , so that it is independent and doesn't break.

Thought I should check it isn't just my opinion. Here is a cedar clad building under 3 years old http://thehelpfulengineer.com/index.php/2010/11/the-problem-with-cedar-cladding/ The comments below the article are very interesting too.

Have you committed to cedar? Cedar is only lovely reddish brown for a fairly short time (when the publicity pics are taken) , then changes over a couple of years to silvery grey, often with coloured stains at fixings depending on the metal. It can look very patchy in that transition period. Otherwise seal it, with something appropriate to the oily wood, and do it promptly, before the greying starts. I heard from an importer that cedar is marketed as if we were in Canada, where they don't have the mild, damp winters that cause the issues for us. If you like the reddish cedar colour, then I would use pine, at 1/4 the price, and stain to the colour of your choice with the best stains. The colour remains for 10 years in sun, and more in shade. Stain applied either before fixing, or after some shrinking has occurred as joints will open. and show bare wood. 'Oak' colour barely changes the pine colour, but it gets a nice sheen and stays that colour. Other colours will darken it, and may need 2 coats. Colour charts from sikkens or sadolins for brick comparison.

Easy Pads aren’t suitable for an extension, you need to put in foundations that match the house construction, Agreed absolutely, but I avoided saying it so clearly, as the website shows use as a large extension! Let us assume there was some particular reason it was ok.....built on rock or temporary? But no, PaulSuffolk, not for your house extension.

I seem to remember that diesel works as a shutter oil, but was frowned upon for more significant structures. Perhaps more a retarder than a release agent. Go on, risk one of your slabs and let us know.

Careful! If you look at this Easypad page (I just did) you see the whole story: https://easypads.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/2.EasyPads-How-to-install.pdf You still need concrete pads, quite close together. There is an open void under the building, ideal for rodents, or to close off with attractive chicken mesh.. This seems to me to be the modern equivalent of supporting a temporary classroom or caravan on piles of paving slabs. Similarly screw piles are a great idea, and used for telephone masts. But you must get it checked out by an independent Structural Engineer. I say this having been given the sales pitch by 2 suppliers at Ecobuild. Both said that screw piles were suitable for large , permanent buildings with high load. I didn't think so, and checked it out, then never used them. So should you. Nobody is likely to say 'don't use them' on this Hub as we might be wrong in your circumstances. Only my opinion: ok for small, temporary, separate buildings. There may be a reason why the classroom buildings shown on Easy Pads website were appropriate. Perhaps are deemed temporary. I would welcome input from the suppliers. Have now looked at Jackpad. They are very clear that these are for temporary use, stressing the reuse of pads and the original space.

I installed a couple of home showers recently, and learned so much! (So much about how the trades sometimes know or care so little) In both cases I invested in special tile backing boards. They fix to the walls, either direct or over plasterboard. Utterly waterproof (with attention to joints) , and very hard, and easy to tile over. For one shower we engaged a professional tiler and he was pleased to see the board. For the other I did it myself and it was the easiest (and best) tiling I ever did. Other boards are available. I tried the Knauff but didn't like it so much, and I used this. https://www.toppstiles.co.uk/fixing-finishing/preparation/hardiebacker-board/hardiebacker-backerboard-6mm Perhaps professional builders can advise if this should be expected as standard.

I have not studied this in detail, but do note that the bifold door opening is a very large proportion of the wall. There will be a structural steel here whatever. The extra cost of adding posts and enlarging the footings is not huge. Your decision may be based on other factors.....availability of skills and materials, and how the rest of the structure works. Explain to Engineer and Architect what you want/are considering, and why, then allow them to make it work for you.

It annoys me when the cheapest quote is automatically dismissed, (not saying you are doing so!) Yes some contractors get it wrong, a few deliberately quote low, some don't know what they don't know, and some are simply good at what they do. Give them all a chance, say I I say this from experience as my business (now handed on) specialised in saving projects that were way over budget. You really can be 30% better value every time, and sometimes 50% less, without any loss of quality. It is down to being expert in your own field. Wasteful design, and multiple levels of control and overhead were the main differential. A sorts hall for £1.1M or £2.3M? Some would dismiss it, others get the value. Same applies to any sort of project. And also if you get on with the contractor.

Ask your Engineer if the pad can be asymmetrical, ie more of it outside the existing house. That will let you dig more easily, and perhaps all from outside in one operation. Alternatively it might become more rectangular. That may require it being a little deeper, or reinforced. Yes you can normally pour it in parts as all the load is presumably downwards. In that case you would probably put some ties bars in to link fully (push them into the earth face before pouring, or drill in afterwards), This should be simple to redesign if you explain why you want to do it.