saveasteading

That would be my argument against accepting their requirement. They do tend to have to accept carbon-saving initiatives. If you can show where the 'future water supply' comes from I think this might be get-overable. A lot of my designs have dotted future solar panels and future lifts, as long as the design is genuine and it is doable. eg roof stronger for panels, and a box-out in the floor for a lift. Don't know your circumstances but might work.....future additional rainwater storage?

Unfair. If they are thick , then so am I. I once estimated and won a project for some heavy civil engineering. Our PM politely asked me how I planned to get the lorries under the low railway bridge on the access track. Fortunately, smaller lorries and a bit of road scraping resolved it. I had been on a site visit. And then there was not thinking of the power cables over a new office block in a power station! Assuming these people are not in the industry, the weight of a concrete lorry might never occur. I need to catch up on these new GDs. Advice on the most interesting programmes please?

No, they would be seen as petty and wasting the court's time, especially if they had not tried other means of resolution, and you were seen to having been reasonable. The word 'structure' is used extensively in the definitions section of the Scottish regs, but not defined itself, which is interesting but not helpful. I would revert to this: Walls that are not Party Walls include boundary walls built wholly on one owner’s land).

Can you tell us the product please? Whatever the shape, and this is pressed to look a bit like tiles, this is metal cladding. Therefore it ether needs to be sealed at every joint to be completely weathertight, or it needs to ventilate, and have another weather layer below it. Even if sealed, you will have issues from condensation. My first impression therefore is that this is ok for a tractor shed but not anything occupied or heated.

As Gus says, research the specifications. There are several finishes available, with different qualities. Plastisol is the ubiquitous one, which is good in pollution but the 'cut end' issue has to be considered. Plastisol in extra thickness near the sea. Polyester is cheaper SuperPolyester keeps its colour well pvdf good colour retention The metal can also be of different thicknesses and hardness. Some economy sheets are very soft. Aluminium much more expensive than steel. Agricultural quality is not designed for long life. Careless cutting can damage the bond between metal and coating and allow rust. And I could go on. secret fix or screws. insulated or double skin or singe skin. Aluzinc finish. Do the homework and check the spec and the quality control of the contractor. Get it right and it looks good. How long does it last? Indefinitely if maintained. But maintenance and repainting can be in 10 years or 30 years depending on the above.

The tracking process online is very efficient, and you even see the signature at delivery. I don't imagine many tracked packages go missing....much too risky for thieves as the package is handled through the process. The point that it went missing would be known. Copying has to be worth it though, even if it costs. As well as the possibility of loss, you have the full info in case of any discussion. If there are hundreds of small (value or physically) receipts, at least copy the forms, and the big invoices.

from the government document https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/523010/Party_Wall_etc__Act_1996_-_Explanatory_Booklet.pdf A wall is a "party fence wall" if it is not part of a building, and stands astride the boundary line between lands of different owners and is used to separate those lands (for example a masonry garden wall). This does not include such things as wooden fences or hedges. Walls that are not Party Walls: These may include boundary walls (a fence wall/garden wall built wholly on one owner’s land) and external walls (the wall of a building built up to but not astride the boundary). As you say it is all on their land, that seems to be answered. there may be footings on your side, but technically shouldn't be, so let's not go there for now. Has their surveyor said this to you or is it second-hand from the neighbour? Is the surveyor qualified, and in what? Even RICS covers lots of variable skills and does not necessarily include law/ party wall or even construction. IF other buildhubbers can confirm, then in my opinion: No point in messing. Tell the neighbour your advice is that their surveyor is wrong, but please advise us in writing if you wish. We will hold you liable for all costs from this stage.

Take lots of pictures of the current condition of everything, even the clematis. Also the road/pavement kerbs. Tell your surveyor you are doing this, and so the pictures are acknowledged. I have had verbal and written claims of substantial damage to adjacent factories and houses on various occasions. All I had to do was say that I had condition photos of their building before the works commenced, and that was the end of it They didn't even ask to see them.. I did have to advise our insurers of potential claims, otherwise there is no cover, so it is all hassle.

That depends. Some don't really appreciate or understand the significance of a soakaway not working properly. Some are so used to the major developers getting away with 'relaxed' rules that they think it fair to allow it to individuals too. Some rightly recognise that there really will not be any problem with the proposal. But the last thing you need is an overflowing soakaway causing damage to your and neighbours' grounds. The rules about soakaways are guidance, not strict rules, so you can argue for example that if it overflowed it would not cause damage, depending on site situation. The 5m rule is a very blanket statement, as the ground could be any material, with or without good percolation. My rule of thumb is to make the situation no worse than before the building. It always rained on the land and it went away into the ground or across the land. Can I design a system to replicate that? It is usually not a single hole in the ground.

Sorry to nag: I have seen many a steel with insufficient thickness and some left-over paint, because the painter said he didn't need it all. It is usually very much thicker than normal paint. Also many where there is no seal coat. The working intumescent stuff is soft and gets mucky, so make sure you have the finish coat too. On the other hand, the paint company likes to sell paint. If the steel is already enclosed on one or more sides the amount of paint reduces, and they dont always bother to mask. A heavy enough steel doesn't need extra protection at all.

steel doesn't rust without water and oxygen. paint prevents that if it is adhering, even primer will suffice in normal indoor conditions, I would rub down the flaky bits, gently rub any flaking rust bits off, but not through to shiny metal, then put a coat of primer on the exposed steel. then intumescent away. I assume you have the intumescent base coat and also a finish coat. it is horrible to put on as thick as it is required. Sometimes best to work out the volume of paint you need, then keep recoating til all gone. then seal.

It is my son-in law's birthday and I want to get him a book that is relevant to barn conversion or building basics generally. If still available I might get 'Why you don't fall through the floor'. I gather there is a sort of self-build 'bible'. any suggestions.?

In case they revert to blaming you, or want to share an expensive proposal, make sure you have dated photographs that are clear to understand. This discussion is proof to some extent. Meanwhile you don't want the stuff on your side to extend. Next growth season do one of the processes above, if the neighbour has not. There are some really good official documents on this, free on the web.

In real life I have always found it to be less than half that. BUT it depends on the screed having been laid with the right (low) amount of water so that there is little free water after curing. Curing in ambient temperatures takes about 28 days, but continues thereafter. The chemistry of curing takes water into the matrix and it does not register as free water/ dampness. If they have added water for ease of laying (normal I am sorry to say), or allowed it to get wet then this is different, and it needs to dry Ventilation is essential, more than extra heat. If the heater is gas then it is pointless, as the combustion creates water. A surface dampness monitor can be hired (for accurate measure) or bought quite cheaply for 'near enough' guidance. You could insist the contractor proves it before covering. Beware of carpet/vinyl contractors wanting extra to seal the slab. 1. it is better to be dry than sealed in . 2. they charge a lot and it is a good earner, often pointless...Also I have had them fiddle the readings.. or perhaps they didn't really understand.

I don't have the programme any more. We did play around with different thicknesses but in the regions of up to 250mm, at which all tests were being passed and costs were unjustifiable. As you say, other priorities come into play. Intuitively there is little sense in having 500mm in the roof and 50 in the walls. The blue line on the graph surprises me, and perhaps I am not understanding it properly. Is it implying that after, say, 60mm the benefit is minor? It is surprising what an immediate benefit (real life, not perhaps in theory) there is from an underlay of 10mm on cold concrete.

I have 3.1 height to ceiling and some roof timbers in the way. I will check some of these out though, once more, as that is really cheap.

I will pass trough you all with hearts shortly. About to speak with the family, and I fear they want it all down!!!!! because they quite like the joiner. will report back.

I have the same issue. all the ladder ones need a longer hatch, so i think i am going with this, for 600 x 600. https://www.laddersandscaffoldtowers.co.uk/acatalog/Concertina-Loft-Ladders.html

how much came out past the required opening size, and did it sit reasonably vertical or did it V out? All the stone will be sold or used in the very long term for garden features

Yes this section appears to be older than the rest, and is of coarser stone and includes some rough patching. Our design is to form 3 openings for doors or double doors in this wall My concern is having seen, on a blog, someone forming openings by removing stones to about 45 degrees, that too much has to come out and might as well be rebuilt. However, elsewhere we have a bit of wall that has fallen out through rain damage and/or tractor impact, and it stays remarkably intact (even oversailing counter to gravity). Hence my hope that a cleanish cut can be made, and you all seem to be saying probably it can. If only. The eaves is only about 2.2m above the floor (Approx where the render starts.) I am for gently taking out the floor and lowering it. (thinnish concrete incorporating original cobbles, all on sand) The rest of the family wants to knock this section down and rebuild in new. So do the builders we are talking to (easier for them and our money). I cannot be on site to PM , so have to be realistic that the family on site will let the builders will have their way.

Bolt an angle iron or a scaffold tube to the stone and clamp the drill to it?

I have had specialists do it in reinforced concrete (downwards, with a normalish drill) and it was surprisingly good value. The kit was the star, and the labour wasn't specialist. But I am thinking that the drill requires support for horizontal work and could be special kit.

Perforated granite!

How many chains? say this was a full height cut (roof supported of course). cahins appear to be from £220 each The wall is traditional 3 layer. granite (and some sandstone) outside, granite inside and a good stone rubble centre, which I would expect might fall away a bit.

Does not need to be perfect, and it can be reformed in blockwork as will be timber clad after. At least that is our assumption that it will benefit from covering. I have seen a picture of very tidy cutting but assumed it would cost a fortune.