saveasteading

You are fine to pour on that. The base and sides are hard. Just scoop out any really sloppy mud last thing to stop it mixing with the concrete. Cordek hads its place, but it is a problem solver, not for standard use. I used to try to be clever, pushing in starter bars, but now prefer to work with the control of the nice hard concrete base. Stuff has improved so much. Drills are so good, and threaded rod with epoxy is now cheap and reliable.

I don't agree. The chance of having some wrong bits is a risk. Also somebody else's bodges with the cladding. I always settle for being removed free of charge and I think that is realistic. Not if there us asbestos though. One existing client wanted another shed. They had a steel one the right size dismantled elsewhere for reuse. I quoted but also gave a much cheaper price for an all new one. Client wasn't best pleased and got 3 more quotes, all higher than mine for the reused one. No apology but a fifth job so hey-ho. That doesn't mean it had no value, but it wasn't a lot. On balance, steel sheds go for scrap. Concrete frames crush nicely. Asbestos cladding.....ahhh well, even farmers have constraints now. Hence building it again can be the cheapest solution. Farm buildings have no safety factors and are allowed to leak and be draughty.

Our team has been laying these slabs, so I asked. Its my son in law, and he says he has used sbr as advised on https://www.pavingexpert.com/stain_reflective_01#:~:text=Why it happens%3A,the underside of each flag He's done a great job, all by himself. To avoid rsi he has spread out the prep, then concretes and lays one slab. Average production 1 slab per hour, all up. He reads instructions too. I basically font agree with bringing stone from India, then it isn't uk to the job. But sometimes I say nothing. But we are NOT sealing the surface and are happy with the appearance.

I was offered the atcost brand but declined, as it was only if value if wanting farm work. I think ask a farmer for contacts or find a farmers weekly.

There is very little chalk in scotland. I know the Kent geology. There are very real concerns about fissures in chalk and limestone. Once a pathway has formed, if can be dissolved over time. Such that if filling a test hole with water, the worry is that it disappears quickly.

A salami bush!

I would certainly lay a bed of sharp sand as a minimum, for control. Long term, you will get some movement, weeds ants and worms. That can be dealt with. A concrete layer would reduce these issues. Bricks on slabs on hardcore seems wrong. I'm not thinking about why.

This need for an sbr primer on stone slabs is news to me. So I looked it up. BAL Bond SBR is also useful as a primer before tile fixing, providing extra protection for peace of mind. well, i don't think that is good enough. Somebody needs to say why the stone needs it. and what horrible things will happen if it isn't used. I'd think It will keep water inside the stone, if porous, making it more liable to frost damage.

And a fan that will have a sweet spot, and a wobble frequency.

I was being casual. I mean sealant. From my experience of concrete sealant/ hardener it either soaks in or sits on the surface. The latter, if the concrete is good, making it pointless. We had to scrape it all off again once as it got slippy. Presumably with stone it likewise soaks into pores and otherwise sits on the top. But you would think this stone, of all the stone in the world, had been selected for purpose rather than depending on additives. If it's anything like what gets sold to seal stone tiles internally, you will need several coats, and to renew regularly. The people selling it of course say it's great. I've not seen reviews. So it is just my instinct to ignore the optional extras....as with a car.. What would it cost? Is there any guarantee?

My thoughts. The bedding instructions look correct to me. I wouldn't reduce any of that, but you can expect your builder to say it is over the top. I don't agree with varnishing. It is stone and should look like stone. It will go darker when wet anyway. If you did varnish it, it will wear off with foot traffic or brushing. I don't think there is any urgency in varnishing anyway, and you could do it next year. How are the joints filled?

I am quite strongly against green roofs as being a good thing in principle. I tried to get an HSE inspector to forbid one as it required otherwise unnecessary access to the roof during construction and in use, He agreed that would be best, but he said he didn't want to get involved. I also asked the planner if painting the words "green roof" on the surface would suffice, as it matched the plan and would be more sustainable. No, but got a giggle. They increase carbon dramatically in construction, but have little impact in life. Sedum grows in Norfolk, sedum grows a bit more, where transported to, sedum dies. But. That tower block is lunacy. I never saw the blades move on perhaps 30 sightings over the years. I haven't heard about costs...I think everyone involved keeps their heads down. But my estimates are that an extensive green roof, with public access, would have cost £5M, and the windmill feature £30M, to which allow for a reduction in floorspace. That could be recalculated into carbon used. I've always that thuis would make a good article in Architects Journal. 20 years on, what do the designers and developer want to say?

That. Seasonally by the sounds of things. A few holes in the bottom is good. Perhaps put a layer of rubble on the bottom as a void for any extreme rain. I'm guessing you will knock in the sides to some extent. Presumably the pond sides used to be lined with rubber liner..that stuff in the foreground.

I like the principle of using flexis when there is potential movement or vibration going on. Presumably they have an unconstricted cross section when properly fitted (not twisted). My only concern is that they lend themselves to unskilled fitting.

Perhaps. But we now know that Thames Water concealed their river waste at Gatwick, then lied about it. I think we can therefore assume that this was policy, there were many more abuses and that they should be at number 1.

I'm not checking, but I'd expect they have done formal tests for the acoustic stuff but not the other. So it gets specified and they can sell it , prob at a premium. I'm only guessing, so perhaps cynicism is prevailing. Of course an Engineer at the head office will only tell the facts, and isn't marketing. I believe build quality to be crucial in acoustic walls..so buy what you like but do it very well.

Can we have a photo of the whole wall, for context, please? That is a very local bit of movement. The concrete raises questions too. I am not one for underpinning as a first thought. I like to see another season for the ground to recover. But insurers may need to be informed, if only for the record.

That's decided then. Glue. Either directly or in a square steel base. Or I suppose you could fit a square timber plate to the newel, then glue that down. If anything wants to move or fail, then the plate takes the strain. Yes that's my choice.

You can get a metal foot, like a fence base, and then can put lots of small fixings through, plus perhaps adhesive, instead of a few long ones. More opportunities to hit any high sections of pipe though. Does it need holding down, or simply in place?

OK I understand. You want an industrial plain concrete finish. Not my choice and I have concerns but others seem happy with it as a finish, so I will not get involved.

Can you explain what you mean please? This term can apply to be either like a retail store floor, or fancy with glass in it or anywhere in between.

Latex screed. The kind where you can add sand as a bulker.

It's made of dead trees. No two will ever match, snd isn't that the attraction?

Few buildings are level. You might be surprised how out of level, but nobody notices. I know an indoor tennis court with 50mm difference in the court length. (It wasn't my project) Only i and the manager know.....players haven't noticed. I doubt anyone will notice in a domestic room.... otherwise why do kitchen cabinets and washing machines need adjustable feet?

As long as you have proof that the project has started all is OK. You don't need certificates. As as long as the bco has been appointed and has been to sitd to approve relevant works then you are OK. The only issue would be if someone wanted to make trouble and argue that you hadn't started in time. In that case you have proof in your correspondence and photographs ahat should end the matter I tend to send copies in an email, to a friend or colleague, or even myself as the email is dated proof. Checklist Bco appointed (fee paid?) Relevant work done Bco has visited and is OK with it. You have some record I'd just emphasise that it needs to be relevant work and not some trivial thing contrived for the purpose