ProDave

Hi and welcome to the new forum. Keep us posted with your progress and get busy asking questions.

But on that logic, should you have not done the whole sequence including the sums not shown, 4+7, 5+8, 6+9, and 7+10 then finally adding the total to the 8+11 sum?

Roadside wheelie bins in laybys are handy as well. I know all the ones that don't have a bracket to stop you opening the lid by more than 3" It's handy having more than one vehicle if taking a lot of stuff to the tip, we have 3 between us that I can use.

Give me a clue as I am obviously over thiking it.

Can someone post some reasoning as I can't make sense of it. All I see is incorrect sums so you are asking me to guess the answer of the last incorrect sum? I started thinking ah, they must be adding up in base 6, but you can't have more than a number 5 then can you so that only works for the first 2.

I'm stockpiling cardboard at the moment. All my wood fibre board came covered in cardboard (and plastic) so I have a lot of very large sheets or cardboard. It's all waiting for when we have the walls and ceilings skimmed to cover the floor with. THEN comes the big bonfire.

I see the passive cat flap thread being repeated. Get a dog instead, they only go out when you say so.

Now there is a devious plan. I would never have thought about that one. Most of my waste currently is plastic wrappng. Why does everyrthing have to come wrapped in several layers of plastic?

I don't like councils imposing "limits" on what you can dispose of. Do they think if you can't dispose of it responsibly that it will simply cease to exist? Then they wonder where all the fly tipped stuff comes from that costs them MORE to deal with. Reminds me of my BIL who went to the tip in his Landrover. By the garden waste bin there was a sign saying "one vehicle, one bag" They tried to stop him when he dragged a 1 ton builders bag full of garden waste out of the back of the Landrover, until he pointed out that he only had one vehicle and only one bag of rubbish.

Since you are making a new opening in a structural wall, building control will have to be involved. There is a window and door in the "extension" so that's ventilation taken care of. Fireproofing the wall to the garage is easy, 2 layers of plasterboard each side with the joints staggered (and filled)

+101 to that. The thing is, I heve never before this seen any specific guidance on drilling the bottom chord of an attic truss. All the normal electricians on site guides etc make no mention of a truss being any different. I suspect I and countless other electricians have just treated them as an ordinary "joist" and lacking any proper guidance have drilled them within the limits for a "joist" which we now know is not the case. P.S for ordinary joists you must only drill them in an area between 0.25 and 0.4 of the span, only along the centreline of the joist and no more than 0.25 times the depth of the joist.

My only input is you are dividing the garage. So there will still be a "garage" even if it's only big enough to park a moped. So it will still requre a fireproof wall between what is left of the garage and the "extension" Watch for making a "plasterboard tent" Normally the walls of a garage are well ventilated with air bricks, and if you are not careful you can end up with cold air getting in front of the insulation virtually negating it's effectivenes.

I don't think anyone has said this is "okay" as in general guidance. Only that in THIS case they have "got away" with it because they were over sized. P.S thanks for that link relating specifically to attic trusses. I have never seen that before and that will now ovveride the normal 0.25 to o.4 span rules.

Two comments: Those are the shallowest strip foundations I have ever seen anywhere. Here we were down to between 1 and 1.6 metres below original ground before we hit the firm sandy clay, and where I used to live in Oxfordshire, the standard was a very minimum of 1 metre deep. Secondly, whenever I have seen ICF pours (mostly on Grand designs) they pour a whole floor worth of blocks on one go, then wonder why they get bursts. Pouring just a few at a time seems a better idea.

Sounds to me like you will need 3 seperate meters, and quite possibly 3 seperate FIT accounts, unless your chosen supplier can deal with one account and 3 readings.

Whoever does come back, make sure they know what the correct rules are regarding drilling joists, but to make the No 1 objective to route cables and pipes to avoid drilling the joists if at all possible.

No I don't mean the nail plates. Say you have a joist that spans the whole width of the house and is sized to do so. It's easy to work out the 0.25 - 0.4 span drilling zones. Then you stick an intermediate support wall under the joist at say 1/3 along its length. Do the drilling zones remain the same, or do you now treat it as two seperate joists each with their own drilling zones?

A serious question re drilling joists. That roof truss has an intermediate support. Do you treat the joist as a whole when working out the safe areas to drill, or do you treat the now two halves of the joist individually when working out the drilling zones? that sort of information never appears anywhere in any guidance notes. It is quite likely the house has the same joist throughout and some may have an intermediate support wall and others may span the whole gap in one go. I am watching that truss thread with interest. The outome could worry a lot of electricians.

Out of intertest, how much are those back boxes? I've seen it all now, plumbers using sparky bits. Looks like a cooker connection plate with the terminal blocks removed and just the front cover.

The same diagram is in the building regs that you can download for free. I could point you to the Scottish version, but probably best if you look it up on your local council website (It is almost certainly the same diagram)

The regulations are with respect to flue pipe terminations, and building regs set out the distances to windows, doors and air intakes..

I'm not questioning your ability, or doubting that what you left is stronger than the original. But the point is neither you or I are actually qualified to make that assesment. That is structural engineer teritory. I'm just saying this in light of the holes in the truss thread. IF it turns out someone says the trusses have to be replaced, then someone is going to need a very good PL insurance policy to pay for it, or they will end up bankrupt.

In light of the other thread about drilling roof trusses, did you get a structural engineer or the joist manufacturer to approve you cutting out a section and replacing it? How much PL insurance do you have?

This thread was originally posted in the other place, and is a team effort to collect together as many acronyms and abbreviations used in the building trade as we could. If you know of any abbreviations missing, or think there should be a correction to the list, then post them as a reply to this topic and one of the moderators can edit the original list to keep it all up together. AAV = Air Admittance Valve. (Sometimes referred to as a Durgo Valve.) AAV (alternative) = Automatic Air Vent. ACH = Air Change [per] Hour AIUI = "As I understand It". AONB = Area [of] Outstanding Natural Beauty Article 4 Direction = Removes Permitted Development (PD) rights. (See: http://www.brighton-...cle-4-direction ) ASHP = Air Source Heat Pump (And see also: http://www.planningp...ects/heatpumps/ ) BC / BCO / BI = Building Control / Building Control Officer / Building Inspector (Often prefixed with LA = Local Authority, as in LABCO.) BR = Building Regulations (Regs) CIL = Community Infrastructure Levy (= a charge levied by a LA based on the sq.m of a property. Note: self-builds are exempt.) CO = Conservation Officer. (Now often designated: Heritage Officers. Specialized - although often not particularly qualified - planning officers working in a local authority Conservation/Heritage department. Have the power to over-rule BC where the Regs are concerned if a proposal is considered likely to impact on the "historic character" of a building, whether Listed or not, or in a Conservation Area.) {Listed Building, see: http://www.planningp...ing_consent.pdf } {Conservation Area, see: http://www.planningp...ns/conservation } CU = Consumer Unit CCU = Cooker Connection Unit CWS = Cold Water Storage [tank]. (Large plastic tank often in attic.) CYL Stat = hot water cylinder thermostat for control of DHW temperature. DeltaT = ΔT (Greek symbol Δ =delta in Greek alphabet) Temperature difference. (In the building context usually referring to the difference in temperature across a wall when discussing the effectiveness of insulation.) DG = Double Glazing (Sometimes referred to in shorthand as 2g = double glazed; 3g = triple glazed. Also expressed as 'd/g') DCW = Domestic Cold Water DHW = Domestic Hot Water DNO = Distribution Network Operator (electricity supply) DPC = Damp Proof Course DPM = Damp Proof Membrane EA = Environment Agency EDPM = Roofing membrane. (EPDM rubber (ethylene propylene diene monomer (M-class) rubber), a type of synthetic rubber,) EPC = Energy Performance Certificate (See: https://www.gov.uk/b...ce-certificates ) EPS = Expanded Polystyrene Insulation EV - Expansion Vessel EWI = External Wall Insulation F&E = Feed and Expansion tank. (Small plastic tank often found in attic alongside CWS.) FCU = Fused Connection Unit FWIW = "for what its worth". (As in: "That's my opinion FWIW.") FYI = For Your Information. (Now often seen in formal letters since they took the form of emails, and especially in the header of an email forwarded to keep someone "in the loop".) GCN = Great Crested Newt GSHP - Ground Source Heat Pump HC or VHC = heat capacity/volumetric heat capacity ICF= Insulated Concrete Formwork IGU = Insulated Glazed Unit (industry term for double or triple glazing) IMHO = "in my honest opinion." (Alternative: "in my humble opinion.") IIRC = "If I remember correctly." IWI = Internal Wall Insulation KISS = Keep It Simple Stupid. (Usually expressed as: "Stick to the KISS principle.") LA = Local Authority LBC = Listed Building Consent. (Needed to carry out work on any Listed building, whether domestic or commercial, privately or publicly owned, which is protected by law because of its historic significance, whether by age or architectural importance attested to by English Heritage.) (See also: Listed Building, above.) LPA = Local Planning Authority LPG = Liquefied Petroleum Gas M&E = Mechanical and Electrical MCB = Miniature Circuit Breaker MDPE = Medium-density polyethylene also referred to as Alkathene. Pipe used to carry mains water and gas, usually buried underground. MI = Manufacturers Instructions MVHR = Mechanical Ventilation [with] Heat Recovery. NPPF = National Planning Policy Framework OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer OLIVE = Compressible copper ring accompanying threaded plumbing fittings that compresses around the pipe when the fitting is tightened to form a watertight seal. Often reinforced with PTFE tape [see below]. OSB = Orientated strand board Party wall = An internal wall common to two properties. (Not always a contentious issue, but see: http://www.planningp...on/partywallact ) PDR = Permitted Development Rights. (Sometimes just 'PD'. See: http://www.planningp...ssion/permitted ) PGM room stat = Programmable room thermostat: selects both operating times and temperatures. PI = Professional Indemnity (Insurance) PINS = Planning Inspectorate PME = Protective multiple earthing PIR = Rigid Polyisocyanurate Insulation PoE (or POE) = Power over Ethernet. Enables power to be provided to the device (phone or a network camera) using the same cable as that used for network connection. PRV = Pressure Relief Valve PRedV - Pressure Reducing Valve PHE - Plate Heat Exchanger PTFE (tape) = (polytetrafluoroethylene) Tape used to seal threads and joints (e.g. around olives in compressions fittings) in plumbing. Also known as Teflon tape outside the UK PUR = Rigid Polyurethane Insulation PV = Photovoltaics e.g. Roof Solar panels R-value = Thermal resistance [insulation] (the higher the better) RCD = Residual Current Device RCBO = Residual Current circuit Breaker with Overcurrent protection RDF = Refuse Derived Fuel RTFM = Read The Flipping Manual. (The polite version; the less inhibited version is usually expressed with the 'F' meaning what you think it means.) SAP = Standard Assessment Procedure (See: https://www.gov.uk/s...sment-procedure ) (See also: https://www.bre.co.u...P-2012_9-92.pdf ) ( https://www.gov.uk/g...t_file_2012.pdf ) SAPV - SunAmpPV SE = Structural Engineer SEPA = Scottish Environmental Protection Agency SFCU = Switched Fused Connection Unit SHC = Specific Heat Capacity (heat is another word for energy, don't confuse with temperature) SIPs = Structural Insulated Panels SSSI = Site of Special Scientific Interest Stat = Thermostat. (Room stat = wall mounted thermostat/central heating control.) SUDs = SUSTAINABLE URBAN DRAINAGE [system] SVP = soil vent pipe. SWA = Steel Wire Armoured (cable) SWMBO = She Who Must Be Obeyed (Attributed to "Rumpole of The [Old] Bailey", who used the phrase when referring to his wife, but actually from Rider Haggard's "She": https://www.youtube....h?v=bS5YmETSVCI ) TAF = Temporary Amphibian Fence TBH = "to be honest" (As in: "TBH I don't know.") TBF= "to be fair" (As in: "TBF to the builder, he hadn't a clue.) T&E = Twin and Earth (cable) TF = Timber Frame (form of house construction) T&G = Tongue and groove. (Often given in lower-case: t&g.) T&PV = Temperature & Pressure [relief] Valve TS = Thermal Store UFH = Under Floor Heating. (Also expressed as 'Underfloor Heating' but usually still given as UFH.) U-value = Rate of transfer of heat [insulation] (get it as low as possible, below 0.15 if you can) UVC = Unvented Cylinder VCL = Vapour Control Layer WUFI = "Wärme und Feuchte instationär" - Heat and Moisture transfer analysis XPS = Extruded Polystyrene Insulation ZV = Zone valve, motorised or other. (Directs heating medium to wherever needed according to programmed requirements.) UNITS OF MEASUREMENT L x W x H = Length times width times height. (But note that when giving dimensions for windows and doors ALWAYS follow the convention of width first, following by the height.) J = joule (not Joule) W = watt h = hour s= second k = kilo (thousand) kW = kilowatt kWh = kilowatt hour kWp = kilowatt peak (Solar installations - literally peak output.) m = metre (not meter) m2 = square metre (not metre squared) t = time T = temperature °C = Celsius or Centigrade K = kelvin (not °K or degrees Kelvin) k or k often means conductivity R = resistivity U = 1/R g = gram kg = kilogram (the odd SI unit, use it) J/(kg.K) = J/(kg.K) = J.kg-1.K-1 W/(m2.K) = W/m2.K = W.m-2.K-1 f(x) = function of x. (Common usage in thermal and stress calculations as well as statistics.) e = Exponent (1+1/1!+1/2!+1/3!+1/4!...) how things heat up and cool down, how fast things grow, π = pi ratio of a circles diameter to its circumference

I will throw self generated solar PV into the discussion. A modulating unit running at low power will more likely be using up available self generated power and not importing much. A constant but low power load is much better suited to solar PV. A non modulating unit when it's running at full chat for its bursts, will much more likely be using some imported power, followed by periods of not using any self generated power. So the modulating unit is by far the best if you have solar PV. Can I also buck the trend re oil boilers. I have been running an oil boiler directly feeding UFH (and DHW) for 13 years. I don't see this short cycling that people keep mentioning. Unlike a gas boiler, oil boilers (or at least the one I have) tend to be quite large capacity big steel tanks with a burner down the middle, so in themselves have quite a hig heat store. What I find is when running with just a low UFH demand, the boiler will fire up for a couple of minutes every 20 minutes or so. I don't see that sort of short cycling as a problem, certainly not one that needs to be "solved" by fitting a buffer tank.