ProDave

I presume the "task" is just to round off the front corner to stop bruises? Why not just cut the corner off at 45 degrees with a panel saw, and then round the edges with a rasp / surform / belt sander?

Why do you ever "log out?" To be honest Firefox is a pretty poor browser, full of bugs.but is the least bad of the bunch.

I recall seeing a you tube video of someone trying to smash a toughened glass shower panel. He hit it very hard with a hammer and nothing happened. He then stood back to think about what to do next, and some time later it just exoploded.

So, I have ordered two stainless steel cowls, and a length of 150mm diameter rigid spiral ducting to go through the wall. Of course it has not arrived yet, and I want to get on. So daft question of the week: Do I drill a 150mm diameter hole, and expect to be able to insert the 150mm duct when it comes? Or does the "150mm" refer to something other than it's exterior diameter and do I need say a 160mm hole?

Is the issue protecting the frame? or progressing the build quicker by allowing work to continue on a wet day? If it's protecting the frame, I would not worry. I am just cladding the frame of my garage that's been open to the elements for 10 months now.

2.5mm will, under the right conditions, withstand up to 27 amps, so will be fine for 16A. The only thing to watch for is voltage drop, if it's a long run you might consider 4mm. P.S an RCD is a residual current device, to trip in the event of earth leakage. It is rated usually at 30mA. What you need is an rcd and a seperate mcb rated at 16A, OR an rcbo, which is an rcd and mcb in the same housing.

Here's another slant to this often talked about "forgot to put in a cable for......" Yes I will try to remember all the cables I need, but you also need to think about technology changing and a need for something new. So I am building my house in such a way that it should be possible to add new cables from just about anywhere to anywhere in the future. How am I achieving that? Well for a start there is a service void all around the house, so dropping cables down that should be possible. To enable that, when I fit the floor upstairs (chipboard and carpet) I will leave a small strip all around the perimiter of each room that is only screwed down. So to gain access fold back the carpet, unscrew an access strip, and you can drop a cable down into any segment of the service void (spare holes having been left at the top of each segment of service void). That coupled with posi joists throughout, should mean I can add new cables from anywhere to anywhere.

So here's the damage. First the crack that I can see from underneath. I think by removing the tank I will be able to get at that one from above. It's to far over to be accessed by removing the floor plate. But I did remove the floor plate and here I found crack no 2 My guess is one of these has been cracked for some time and the other has only recently opened up. I can close both gaps to where they should be by pushing down on the bucket. The plan is to weld crack 2 from above with the tank still in place. This is much further from the tank but I will still dothe wet towel thing. I hope that will then be enough to hold both cracks closed while I drain and remove the tank to weld crack 1.

One of the most nervous jobs I did once was replace the fuel sender in the tank of a petrol VW golf. I had dsconnected the battery so there could be nothing to make a spark but still had SWMBO watching over with a fire extinguisher and wet towel just in case.

It has always struck me as "poor" that a "built in " microwave is nothing more than a free standing one wioth a front plate put around it. It loks like that rather than a proper built in one. I get the feeling when we come to choose our new kitchen that for the first time have a "built in" microwave, that I am going to be very dissapointed with the offerings.

I haven't looked at removing the tank. I know from experience, that petrol vapour will ignite very easily. Diesel you actually have to put a flame to it to ignite it, so i had thougt as long as I am not welding to the tank I should be okay?

Metal tank. I've only just poured another 20L jerry can full in there, so drainig it would be a problem finding something to drain it into. Yes I don't want to carry on trying to use it, if the other part of the bracket breaks it would fall off and then be infinitely harder to fix then. As it is now, as long as I can get at it to weld it, it's fixable.

I've been finishing off the last bit of drainage, the rainwater drains. While digging the last trench something didn't "feel right" But I carried on and finished that. I also flattened out a pile of soil while the digger was around the back of the house ( dare I say the first bit of "landscaping"). It was then I realised what the problem was. As I put weight on or take weight off the bucket, the king post is moving a bit. Oh dear. A look underneath reveals a chassis member supporting one side of the king post has cracked where it changes angle, I suspect a weld at that point has given up, so it's only being supported by the other side, which is flexing. Not good. I think it's going to be a straightforward repair, just re weld the seam. But it will be awkward to do from below so I am hoping I will get better access from above if I take the floor plate out of the cab. Watch this space, photo's to follow when I get around to lifting the floor plate. No hurry, I have finished all the immediate digging jobs so it can wait if it has to. This is the penalty for buying an old cheap digger. Serious question. It will be welding about 12 inches from the diesel tank. I know diesel is a lot less volatile than petrol. Would you drain the tank? or just do it?

A garden outbuilding under 30 square metres does not need building regulations (that's the situation in Scotland, check it's the same in England) Another "get out" is if it's a portable building (e.g shed or caravan) then you can build up to nearly 100 square metres without building regulations. Strictly speaking, in both cases a drain connection does need building regs, that is all. Could you make a "temporary" drain connection and then regularise that as part of your building control when you start the house I wonder?

Is the garden room going to be attached to the house, or is is a seperate garden outbuilding?

So many months of delays, and many £000 of pounds, and it comes down to "dig a trench and bury a plastic sheet on sticks" Couldn't that have been agreed much quicker and much cheaper? Talk about mindless beurocracy.

I think your best course of action is a new treatment plant in a new location with a new soakaway. Now whether you have enough room for that is another matter, but I think you can be sure the ground around the existing tank is going to be pretty dire.

Pictures are good. Here's my treatment plant being lowered into it's hole. This is one of the designs that works with an air blower, and much like a lot of the other air blower plants gives just about the cleanest effluent possible. It costs under £2000 I would personally avoid the designs that use mechanical rotating parts, as I personally would not wish to be the one reparing them when dirty mechanical bits fail. Are you SURE you have a cess pit? if you do you will be emptying it very frequently. Are you sure it's not an older type concrete built septic tank?

Hope it's ONLY the grey water he is taling about. Seriously you don't do that. Update the cess pit to a treatment plant and a soakaway.

Re different rules for adjacent plots. The council tried to impose a visiblity splay requrement of 90 metres (which I could not meet) and required me to "demonstrate control" over the visibility splay, which would have meant negotiations with two neighbours. when I pointed out a plot 2 doors don the road was granted permissionwith only a 60 metre splay and no requirement to demonstrate control over the land, they changed mine to the same.

That's part of the reason for wanting to separate mine. They will be going at either end of the gable end wall above the garage. Later on, a car port will be built joining on the the garage wall. So the aim is to place them one each end of the gable wall, above the line of the car port, but close enough to each end that I can reach them without actually climbing on the roof of the car port.

In defence of Russian sites, Elektro Tanya (or something like that) is often a good source of tv service manuals and I have never had dodgy downloads from them.

This "one rule for me, one rule for next door" thing also apples to building control. I had to jump through hoops to find a drainage solution that worked on my plot due to a road, a burn, and regulations saying how far things should be from both, I see my neighbour has just put his treatment plant in, not 2 metres away from the burn. Either he has dropped a b*****k or he has a different set of rules appled to me.

I have edited Tennants Lager's post to remove the link to save any grief if anyone clicks it before reading Jeremy's warning. For some reason the "reason for editing" does not show in the post.

Yes I too am confused. I thought the SE was the one that took a concept of what you want and produced the drawings and calculations to show how to do it correctly.