ProDave

It also depends where you are in the UK. In Scotland, it only has to be 5 metres from a building or boundary, but must be 10 metres from a watercourse.

I was doing some wiring for a chap and there was one in his garden looking unloved. I asked if he wanted to sell it. He said no, but you may borrow it. So I borrowed it for a few weeks (this was 13 years ago when building the previous house) when I finished with it, I phoned him to arrange a time to take it back. "Oh, I don't want it back" he said. It's still going strong now and still looking just as tatty.

Can you not get one to Cumbernauld in time to be delivered by the same transport company as your windows? It was only the ease of DIY installation that swayed me to the Conder, I have every faith the Biopure would perform as well and be slightly cheaper to run. At the moment the £120 delivery looks your best option.

a 1 in 40 drop is 25mm drop in a 1 metre run. To measure that, I have a standard 1 metre long level, and I tape a small bit of 2*1 timber to one end of the level, then set the pipe so the level reads level and you have a 1 in 40 fall. You won't get any droops or puddling at that fall. You can go to 1 in 80 if you are short on fall. Then you have to be more particular that you can't get droops in the pipe run.

I might have close on 300 or even more 150mm screws going cheap.

Late to this debate, but from the house I lived in as a child, Knobs only work properly high up. A knob at "handle height" was not as easy to use.

I have the Conder, the second link in your original post. you might care to get a quote from TP if they have a branch on the island, they were the cheapest I could find so they supplied mine for less than I could find with any of the in line suppliers, and delivered and ofloaded by their own truck with a haib. I chose the conder over the biopure, because of the ground anchoring arrangements. The ground anchor kit for the boipure appeared to require someone to go down into the hole to fix the anchor kit into the ground. With the Conder you just have to fill the bottom of the hole with concrete high enough to encompass the ring about 1/4 the way up from the bottom of the cone shaped bit. The Conder also sits on 3 legs in it's hole whereas the boipure requires the digger (or whatever you lowered it into the hole with) to hold it upright while you back fill the hole. On the downside, I believe the Conder uses more power for it's air blower.

Indeed I have. In my case it's fixed to the timber frame but it is also recogniosed as an external wall insulation system for masonry buildings. You can also achieve the same with other types of insulation and render, e.g EPS. In my case it's a lime based render not cement based and I am hoping for a long and maintenance free life for it.

I think we should only agree to export our precious water, if we also export our also abundant surplus of midges. Seems a fair trade to me. Speaking as someone where we never have a shortage of water, and measures to save it are just nonsense. I would hate to be restricted to a particular folow rate of water for a shower for instance, logic just says it would take longer to rinse the shampoo out of your hair (not very long in my case) so would not actually save any water. And as for low volume cisterns, what good if it needs several flushes to clear the "items" there is nothing wrong with the old fashioned dual flush, where you can choose a low volume flush where appropriate. If I was forced to implement flow restrictors etc I would make it well known to my BC officer that as soon as I had the completion certificate that they would be removed, and I would continue using water in a responsible way.

Building regulations now prevent you from having locking windows to escape routes (bedroom windows for example) So that would not now happen. Although not a building regulation, I would not have entrance doors that need a key to open them from inside. I also point out that wiring regulations now require that cables above exit passages must be supported by non metalic means to prevent firefighters getting entangled by drooping cables. Also, related to the melting point of ducting. Do you think with a full fire raging, and the melting point of PVC cable, that the power feed to the mvhr will still be on and working for very long after a fire starts? Perhaps we should all wire smoke alarms and mvhr feeds in MICC cable which is about the only thing that would last any length of time in a fire.

Quick fix: Take every shelf out, turn them over and put them back. They will now bow upwards, and it will be some time before they come flat, let alone start to sag again. And when they do, repeat. Okay i'll get my coat.

Hi and welcome to the forum. That's an interesting project there, and not without it's challenges I suspect. That looks to be a big bit of ground in a big hole!!!!. We look forward to the story unfolding.

I think one will do, it just means some cables have to be longer than they otherwise would. In all probability, if you take the entire bundle of cables that connects to a consumer unit, they would all go through one 90mm hole.

The rules are simple and based on "safe zones" You can only run a cable in a wall in a "safe zone" and a safe zone is either horizontally or vertically from any accessory, or within 150mm of the ceiling. You cannot run cables at skirting board height, you cannot run them at an angle, only horizontal or verical. Now, given most rooms have sockets on all walls and the normal socket height is 400mm above the floor, then you can run a whole bundle of cables around the rooms at socket height. So except in rooms that don't have sockets, that may be your route? there is aloways the within 150mm of the ceiling safe zone but personally I don't like that but it is legal. I am wiring a house just now with some steel beams and there are just two 90mm holes in each steel, and it would appear the plumber has first choice at using the available holes, on the basis it doesn't matter so much if my cables have to take a longer route. But it is a PITA.

Do you really want to knock that down? I might be in the minority here, but that looks too good and to pretty (from the front at least) to just flatten. It looks to be on a large plot. I would be more thinking in terms of keep and renovate old house, split plot and build a new one. Without seeing the whole plot and the surroundings, the obvious thing would be existing house to right of driveway as you enter, build new house to left of driveway as you enter. I fear to do anything else and it will be a very expensive building plot.

I hadn't spotted the plumbing fail. So it's a double fail photo, two for the price of one. you get value on this forum.

Sometimes I see things in my line of work that astound me. This being one of them. What you are seeing there is the vent hose of a tumble dryer just lying on the garage floor. That's a solid mass of dry fluff eminating from the hose across the garage floor. I would expect most of the hose itself to be similarly full of fluff. If it had caught fire, no doubt a manufacturing fault would have been blamed and there would be calls for the manufacturer to recall the product. Just how people can live like this astounds me. I wonder what the landlord would think if his house had burned down through the neglect of the tenant and what would have been a 100% avoidable accident?

I think if you raise the floor, you will need to ventilate the space underneath it, which means introducing air bricks. Can you not instead lay a DPM, insulation and then concrete?

Scaffold tower on wheels seems the most logical solution, the larger the better. Aluminium would be easier but more expensive. But don't rule out ladders. Our community hall has a ceiling height of probably about 18 feet, and they have a VERY large stepladder with outriggers for that and it's very stable. When you say the builders tower was wobbly, was that the same cuplock scaffold that they used outside? That's normally pretty stable. Did they "forget" the diagonal braces? I am keeping almost half of my Kwikstage scaffold, and one set of that I will probably scrub up and repaint for indoor use for the same reason. I just need to find some cheap wheels for it.

Here's my first efforts on this build. I am trying the easy approach this time. Ground flattened and compacted with the digger, then just raked over to remove the last of the stones and get it a little flatter. Then grass seed sown. The bit in the foreground was seeded 3 weeks ago, but with old seed that was in the shed for who knows how many years. It is just starting to grow now (or is that the weeds) The bit in the middle was seeded about 2 weeks ago with new seed. The bit in the distance next to the sun room was only flattened today and has not been seeded. I regard this as "stage 1" landscaping. I know it's not going to be a perfect lawn from this. Some bits will settle more than others, particularly where drain trenches have been dug and filled in, and will need topping up and leveling again later on. But at this stage it establishes the rough ground levels and by seeding it and then starting to mow it, it shouldn't be such a mess of weeds than if I just left it without doing anything. Regarding watering. If it rains it gets watered, if not........

+1 to the "arrow shaped" drills. these are them http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-tile-glass-drill-bit-set-3pcs/53634 I have been using a set for years, they just work, have not yet found a tile they won't drill through.

I always thought of a certificate of lawfulness, as a vehicle to record the fact you did something you shouldn't have done, and got away with it for the right number of years, and now they can't touch you, and it's a bit of paper to say so. A farmer I used to know started letting "industrial units" in a barn and because he got away with if for long enough before the council noticed he was able to obtain a certificate of lawfulness and carry on doing it. I would never think of applying for one for a humble garden shed.

There are lots of things that are "right" that when you first see them you think someone made an "error" The first was when I first saw a bath panel removed, and I literally laughed out loud at the fact they had cut a hole in the floor boards for the bottom of the trap to stick through. Then my dad told me that was perfectly normal. Then I tried to fit a pair of bath taps for the first time. If someone had tried to design a fitting (tap connector) with the design brief to make it as awkward to fit as absolutely possible, given the restricted access, then they wold have come up with....... a tap connector. There are plenty of electrical items that fit this category as well..... If things were designed to be easy to fit, nothing would be flush, and the bath taps would be along the font side of the bath where it's easy to get at them.

I think there are a few points. I have always associated UPVC with "cheap" double glazing. I have only ever had roof windows with a "pine" finish inside, it's what I "expect" of a roof window. The Velux UPVC ones I saw today did not particularly impress me, I think I was left with the impression "is that it?" Yes this window is "only" for the plant room, but it is also the tester, and if it's any good I will get the same for the en-suite and the small bedroom. If it turns out to be rubbish, I will get a different make for the more important rooms. The UW values are the same for both, so if the UPVC frame is more thermally efficient, it's only by a tiny amount. I think I am minded to wait for the pine one, unless someone can give me a good reason to choose the UPVC.

I have to make a decision in the morning so any opinion would help me. Please.