ProDave

What size bucket? I have found when using my small 12" bucket, that can happen, I get in there with the small spade and "unstick" it. Never happes with the 2 foot bucket.

It used to be acceptable on LPG to use compression fittings, something that seems to be frowned on for mains gas. Is that still allowed?

You can't have flexible pipe indoors, that is just for the connection to the bottles outside. Our 5 burner hob runs fine from a 15 metre long run of 10mm copper pipe. The normal arrangement is a 2 bottle automatic changeover regulator. So HIGH pressure hoses from each cylinder to the regulator and copper from the regulator to the hob. Don't forget presure test points etc. Inside there is a bayonet fitting for the the cooker hose to plug into, that's the only bit of flexi pipe you would normally have indoors. In the case iof a fixed hob you probably wouldn't have that and a direct connection of the copper pipe to the hob.

I'll probably end up changing it twice then. Once very soon after I have finished the present bit of drainage andf before I start on Landscaping, and again just before I sell it so it's fresh and clean. I know one of my track tensioners leaks and the track goes slack, that needs pumping up now, but the other side remains rock solid. Mine loses ramarkably little hydraulic fluid. I bought 5 litres to top it up when I got it and only used a fraction of that.

My frame went up in the summer and was finished in the Autumn. Because from then on it has only been me working on it, a lot of it was exposed over the winter. I spend December and January tiling the roof when the weather allowed, and it was only in the spring that I got started on the external cladding and render. The most exposed, west facing elevation I covered with some left over damp proof membrane to keep the worst of the weather off. I have known peiople take 2 years doing all the work themselves to get a frame winf and watertight and still have no problems.

Thanks. On that basis I will probably be finished with it and sold it before it needs an oil change then.

Mine doesn't have a gearbox. Direct drive from the engine to the hydraulic pump. I am sure the hydraulic fluid is okay, it certainly loks clear. It was just the engine I was wondering about and what the typical oil and filter change interval is measured in working hours.

My digger is probably the oldest one in use on here. Also unusual for having a Peugeot diesel car engine powering it. It of course came with no serrvice history or service information. I serviced the engine when I got it, and on checking the engine before using it today, noted It has done 140 hours since the service (I also fitted a new hour meter) Now most of the time the engine is barely above idle, so if that was in a car pottering about town at 30mph it would have done just over 4000 miles and be some way off it's next service. If it had spent that 140 hours belting down the motorway at the speed limit, it would be overdue a service. For those with "posh" diggers that come with a manual and service schedule, what's the typical service interval? (I'm talking mainly oil and filter change interval)

All it says on it is "Protect VP400 plus" It's held down with the counter battens (vertical battens that follow the line of each rafter) and long screws (long screws needed as they have to pass through the 50mm counter battens, then the 100mm wod fibre before they reach the rafters, so 200mm screws used) So any penetrations are under the counter battens where it's not normally wet and so far no leakage.

But won't that requre an AAV at one or both basin's? I might be able to route one of them along the service void and into a boss higher up the stack if so problem soled, I am just keeping my eye open for options.

Not a hard hat or high viz in sight. You are domed, terrible things will happen.

Does anyone know one of those with 5 inlets? Or a good suggestion of how to connect two showers, 2 basins and one bath. I don't like 2 things into one small bore pipe.

Hi and welcome to the forum, glad you have found us in our new home.

Boiler in bedroom might be fione for regs (needs a CO alarm) but I would NOT want something that makes even quiet noises in my bedroom, it would have to go.

Yes, so in 60 years time when you are in OnOff's position, you don't have to dig up the house to pull a new pipe through. I found it ammusing when my road crossing was done, I put in a duct for my electricity and telephone cables, but Scottish Water burried THEIR pipe directly in the soil in the bottom of the trench, not even in sand.

Here is a tip for removing cooking grease. White Spirit. I used it to remove the gunge inside a cooker hood before I dared touch it to fix it. Far far better than any "oven cleaner" product I have found. But if it is a gas oven, you might want to leave it a while for the fumes to clear before lighting the oven......... Clean it up and keep it. I like those rangemansters. We have the stainless steel version

A ran my blue mdpe water pipe inside 68mm twin wall flexible blue ducting that appears to be made for the job. but plenty do put it in a bit of drain pipe. Used the same twin wall in black for the electricity supply.

Try a bit of denso tape and a jubilee clip.

That's a load of coblers..... (I'll get my coat)

The top one is obviously a spanner. Some special servicing tool for something or other. The bottom one I would expect to clamp to the edge of a bench with the silver rod upright. To hold something but i can't immagine what. Use two of them to hold a reel of something? That pair of pliers just wants oiling. I have a set like that somewhere. The notch in the pivot area is for sheering small bolts.

That is surprisingly effective. Now replace thw wallpaper for a big screen tv and you can have changing scenerry.......

Yes, some insurers will class it as a "non standard biuild" I think the advice on the old place, was go to a broker, and they will find you a policy.

I have just looked it up. £1124.83 plus VAT for 65 rolls = £17.30 per roll plus vat. I am not complaining and I won't be suggesting to them that they might have made a mistake.

I repeat again, I got 65 rolls of 90mm Frametherm 35 from SIG for £1200 Either SIG are very cheap, or they made a mistake? Those prices are nore than double what I paid.

Plenty. they were in fact to long so the builder shortened them so they are now about 20mm wider at each end than the window. In my case with the wood fibre cladding, I cut a slot in the cladding at the correct angle and then slotted the wood fibre board panel in, so the end of the windows cill sits in the slot in the wood fibre to support it. I then sealed all around that joint both sides with Stixall, just in case the render doesn't properly seal.