ProDave

If we are only talking of acoustic insulation between floors I would just cut the required hole in it to be safe. It's only where it is heat insulation and a VCL that downloght become a pain.

It looks a bit like this

I thought one of the reasons given for the "golden brick" thing is it was the only way to supply services to the plot VAT free. Personally I would rather have a bit more freedom and pay the VAT on the services.

One thing I noticed in the picture of the HM box is the "boiler demand" is not connected. The boiler demand would in this case normally turn on a circulating pump and possibly open a motorised valve to allow heat to go from the tank tot he UFH.

I have always thought these grants and renewable initiatives only benefit the installers who can charge such a premium because they are the ones holding a special ticket to allow them to claim the subsidy.

I have already said, what will ultimately be our 28 square metre garden workshop and studio cost a shade over £4K

In this case it was shoddy workmanship as well. This was an old lath and plaster house. A section of lath and plaster wall had been taken down in the process of opening 2 rooms into one. I could not believe they had cut down the L&P wall in between studs and butted a bit f PB up to it. As well as asking for the sheet to be left portable I also suggested they cut the L&P back to the stud to make the joint there. So not only did they fix it and skim it before I was ready, they left a joint flapping in mid air and skimmed over it. What's the betting that joint is going to crack. I would not let those particular joiners anywhere near my house.

Give that information to whoever quoted you for a 17KW heat pump and ask them to re think. My max heat input is 2.5KW and I have a 5KW ASHP (not installed yet)

And you will find the same question now on another forum you know. I am reluctant to start stripping it unless someone actually says yes you can do it, even if they say it is a bugger of a job. I am sure it is the inner bearing that has failed, and on that link, that is no longer available, but I am hoping it is just a standard bearing and a bearing supplier like bearing boys would be able to supply it once I can either find a number on it or measure it's sizes. At least the seal is available as a spare part.

I was surprised when I opened the machine to find a date sticker telling me it was made in 2006. I didn't realise we had had it that long, though I knew it was more than 5 years so no hope of any form of guarantee. Unlike any previous washing machine we have had, this one up until now has been totally reliable, and it still looks like new, so I feel it is worth a try, though once I bite the bullet and start stripping it down, if id does prove unrepairable then I have effectively killed it. So I might delay the strip down until it gets somewhat worse. It is still working but now very noisy on it's spin cycle due to the worn bearing.

I can't see why this would be a problem, though I have to ask how is the floor going to be supported? normally the joists get built in as you go up?

I too am awaiting a new EE mast in line if sight to our house. I hope that too does not end up ESN only.

I don't want to lower the tone.

Some tradesmen just cannot work with others. On a recent job I asked for a sheet of plasterboard to be left portable as I still has some wiring to do. 2 hours later I fins it fixes and skimmed. Ignorant twit

Not hired one but my insurance does cover hired plant.

I have a Daewoo direct drive washing machine model DWD-G1441S The drum bearings are on their last legs. Ir replacement feasible or even possible? I have taken the motor rotor off for a look. I can see the outer bearing and the drum shaft. It looks like a bit of a major strip down to gain access to split the drum outer casing. Then what? First thing would be to push the shaft through and withdraw the drum How do I do that? just hit the shaft with a hammer? Then if I manage that how do I get the bearings out? I assume there will be 2. How tight will they be? can I drive them out with a hammer and a bar? I can't see as I can apply heat as the drum outer casing is plastic. Any thoughts as to whether this is possible if somewhat difficult, or not?

Just a thought. If the UFH drains all the heat out od the tank in under 2 hours, then ultimately you want to end up with the boiler AND the UFH only operating when it is on the cheap rate. Tht should leave the store full of hot water for the taps (when you sort out how to get that working) and on the asumption the house is well enough insulated that you won't notice the heating being off for up to 2 hours.

Re the High Ze thing. That is the suppliers responsibility to correct at their expense. It should not normally exceed 0.35 for the type of supply that you have. The high value of Ze you have is directly responsible for one of the fails on the EICR that they had to get around by changing a circuit breaker.

A few observations: I am not sure why no RCD on the smoke alarms was a C2 unless he KNEW the cables were buried in the wall. And C2 for a missing lamp from it's lamp holder, at this point I would be marching him off site....... You have a very high Ze 0f 0.52 ohms, I would be contacting your supplier, The normally accepted maximum for TNC-S is 0.35 ohms. See here https://www.ssepd.co.uk/ForContractors/ To get this corrected, contact your energy supplier who should refer it t the DNO. This won't fix anything other than stop the lights dimming when the boiler is on. Anyway, at the moment I am seeing 2 distribution boards, both feed several things. I assume EVERYTHING is powered all the time, e,g the washing machine can be used any time day or nght?

Someone didn't want to darken the doors Of CEF to get the correct Proteus one.

I have probably mentioned this before but I stopped doing work for a care home because it always took 4 months to get paid. The explanation was: At the end of month 1, the home send the invoice to head office. At the end of month 2, head office forward it to accounts. At the end of month 3, accounts schedule it for payment, and at the end of month 4 it actually gets paid. And they seemed to think this was normal and acceptable.

And the wrong make for the board.

This sounds like a prime candidate for the hepvo waterless trap (which has another local nickname) Don't go getting Aussie ideas and put your WM in the bathroom next to the shower, complete with a handy socket for the hairdryer. You know us Brits are too stupid and we would all kill ourselves if we were allowed to do that, unlike our more sensible friends down under.

Spurred on by the other thread, I tried once more today. I spoke to RM and the Highland council. Again neither would budge. RM won't add it to the postcode database unless the council inform them, and the council won't inform them unless I pay the fee. I did mention about the fee should reflect the actual cost and I thought it too high. Her reply was the Highland Council reviewed it's fees this January and the house naming fee is now only £100, down from £150. I told them when it goes down to £50 I will pay it. The council lady did not seem the least bit bothered that I have not and will not pay the fee for this and they have no intention of chasing it. She again confirmed it is on the councils address database. So I will continue my silent non paying protest. If the house catches fire, I will give next doors address, they will soon work out which one has flames coming out of it But given our postcode only covers the 12 houses in our road, just knowing there is a fire at this postcode should be enough. When did this GIS database come into effect? Our last house, completed in 2006 made it onto the postcode database without me filling in any form or paying any money. And on one occasion the police had no trouble finding that address (when when we reported a missing B&B guest as a missing person)

Can you remove some f the boxing in. I want to see both the meters in full and any time clocks and the wiring associated with them. I see the 3 phase consumer units That all looks okay . I am trying to establish how the metering system for this tariff works so I need the best picture you can of the meters and their wiring. At the moment about 1/3 of your usage is at the peak rate., that tends to confirm some of your heating load is on at the peak rate time and being charged thus.