ProDave

Just footnote to confirm smells should not transfer around the house. I had to paint some stuff with Hammerite recently and it was way too cold to do so in the garage, so I painted them in the utility room and kept the door shut. Stinky stuff Hammerite, but not the slightest whiff of it anywhere else in the house.

NO. It's the fact that the ridiculous energy market we are stuck with, prices ALL electricity at the cost of the most expensive which is gas. So even though from that graph gas provides less than 40% of our energy all of it is priced as if it were all from gas. We need a radical change to the energy market to stop this nonsense. Otherwise the promise of "electricity will only get cheaper with more renewables" will only happen when renewables reaches 100% and the last gas power station closes down. We are being conned / ripped off and most people are too blinkered to even notice this.

Our water comes from a mountain loch about 600ft above sea level, at this time of year fed by snow melt probably. We often joke why is it not coming out of the taps in lumps. We only get condensation on the cistern in the utility room when some washing is on the airer, temporarily pushing up the local humidity (spell checked)

Why don't you want to attach it to the wall?

My old digger had a LOT of play in it. It did not stop it working and it did not get any worse while I had it. I just used it and spent my time building, not fettling.

A typical cistern is about 6 litres. It would have to be very close to the HW tank otherwise the hot water won't have even got there before it is full.

8M by 8M by 0.45M is the volume you have to fill, so 28.8 M3 per side. So you either scrape off the top soil, add the infill then replace top soil, or for less work put a lesser amount of infil then fresh topsoil on top.

Once signed off, I would remove the glass panel from under the bottom tread. It adds nothing to safety and will impede the hoover.

All extremely interesting. What is shows though, is that you need to have the time, understanding an patience to get it tuned for optimum running. So by implication, the average person that pays to have a heat pump fitted, even one very capable of being set up to run well, will only have the briefest setup done by the installer and will be left with a sub optimal system.

So you don't want to listen to an argument why net zero is not going to work so instead launch into a shoot the messenger rant. Some people are just not open to reasonable debate.

But even then, the single property exemption would cover that. Like you I think this is a very unusual muddled up situation.

Especially the prospect of doing that, KNOWING there is loose insulation above.

Before you keep banging the net zero drum, watch both of these with an open mind. I am not anti green energy, but I am against the current Net Zero at all cost policy we seem to be pursuing. We need a balanced approach along the lines of lets build renewable energy as quick as we reasonably can to power things that lend themselves to that power source, but keep some fossil fuel usage in particular using our own resources to their maximum extent for the sake of energy security and to avoid just "exporting the polution" pretending it is okay to do that.

I would definitely have loft hatch. Exposed blown celulose is surely no worse than lofts of old filled with loose lay vermiculite? Span over the loose lay stuff with some boards for access and storage, if necessary up on loft legs. I hate not having access to a hidden void. In our last house I had a hatch in the floor to access the under floor void. I avoided that in this house for the sake of air tightness, but still sometimes think it would be nice to see what is going on under there, even though there are deliberately no services there. Of course if you think about it from the start at design stage, then a warm roof design with the insulation and air tightness following the roof line is best. Your loft space is then warm and dry and no issues with needing a sealed loft hatch or any downlights etc that might penetrate an air tight layer.

If so it's 400V. That is still well under 20KV so exempt from this legislation. I am utterly confused why they think Section 37 applies to this, what are they not telling?

The exemption refers to VOLTAGE under 20KV 20 Killovolts. Your line is 240V so covered by the exemption. Yours is also a line to feed a single consumer, so again exempt I really don't see why they just can't do it, why they need permission from some minister. This is not a major high voltage pylon marching across a national park. I would be asking your DNO to explain in plain language exactly what they need to do to supply your house, preferably with a plan showing what cables will go where, and asking them WHY they think it is subject so section 37.

Can someone explain what this Section 37 is? I can't see why the DNO won't just upgrade their network and quote for the work needed. It almost sounds to me like there is a party being uncooperative and not allowing them access to something and they are having to force it through some legal process?

That definitely won't just paint over. As above the ceiling board in the alcove has sagged and all the joints are shot. A lot more work than a bit of filler and paint.

Not seeing picture

So most likely the neutral fault occurred and rather than any proper testing it was assumed it was the light fitting so you tried a new one?

If what you think is N, lights up a neon screwdriver, then it is most certainly NOT connected to neutral. So you have a wiring fault somewhere. Did the old light work before you removed it? Not sure we have had a straight answer to that one. Tread carefully, a floating neutral can be a dangerous fault to find and dangerous because unexpected things can become live.

That ship has sailed for me.

But the old light MUST have had neutral to it, so I still don't see why you cannot connect the same L, N, E that previously went to the old light, to this new one. As already mentioned you will have to leave the switch in the house turned on all the time for it to operate automatically at night. Post pictures of the actual cable you have coming from the house and how you have actually connected it to the light.

So it is a simple L,N,E connection no need for any switched L. So it should just connect in place of the old lamp.

Post a picture of your connections at the light fitting, that should clear this up.