ProDave

The vents that BPC supply come with a few little plastic curve shaped things. They are designed to be inserted as baffles if one side of the vent ends up very close to a wall.

I suspect most of these modern "expensive" cars are not owned, but leased. Ask yourself how many car adverts tell you how much the car is to BUY? not many. Most tell you how much it is per month, with a lot of very small print about the up front and end of lease charges to weasle more money out of you. I operate at the other end of the spectrum, that some call "bangernomics" I paid in full outright for my present car, a sum that equates to about a years rental of one of these modern things. It is just coming up to 2 years since I bought this car, so already it has cost me half the rental of a new one. I expect to own it for many more years, so it's cost will be a tiny fraction of leasing a new car. On the other hand, I don't suppose many people see me arrive and think "he must be rich"

Just to avoid confusion this is NOT a "boiler" it is a hot water tank. So you want to switch the immersion heater on and off at different times. so you want something like this https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMTS900.html Make sure you get something rated to switch a 13A / 3KW immersion heater load, and not just an ordinary central heater programmer.

That will be a (probably plastic) piece designed for and supplied with that particular light fitting. If you have a fitting like than and are missing one, contact the manufacturer. If a different application, be more specific what you are trying to achieve?

Another feature of our house is we have nice views and no neighbours in front. So it would be such a shame to block that view with frosted glass, so we didn't. Eventually we will have vertical blinds so you can angle them if you feel you need some privacy.

It's simple. All the intermediate joints in the wall board sit on the centre of a stud. But the very first (and last) sit on the outside edge of the stud. So think of it as the first stud is offset by half it's thickness to account for this. Don't forget this fact when cutting your noggins. If the "end" is a corner, then you also have to decide which board will overlap over the end of the first, which gives you another correction for the thickness of the board to make.

Part of our thinking, is the utility / wc links through to the garage. So if you are working in the garden, enter via the garage and the WC is 2 steps away in the house.

Yes bathroom is upstairs, as are all bedrooms, so guests would use the upstairs bathroom. Downstairs wc is just that, a "convenient" place to go in the daytime without having to go upstairs.

You will probably hate our house then. We have the unconventional layout of the downstairs WC in the same room as the utility room. So alongside one wall there is tumble dryer, washing machine, sink, a cupboard, then the loo. the other side has cupboards and the "pulley" for clothes drying in winter. We did it this way because there was no easy alternative. Plus sides, the combine function room is large and spacious, nothing at all cramped about it. Oh and building control are happy with it.

It's the difference between a Trabant and a Rolls Royce. They both do the same thing, but the quality, and the price. The cheap one does not look very deep to me, I am not sure it would have worked for us. The treatment plant outlet was 700mm down and then another 100mm ore more step for the sample chamber, you will be looking at about a metre down.

On ours, we just did the "distribution" underground with a few tee connectors, @scottishjohn waiting for the Italian pump to arrive.

I know hindsight is a wonderful thing, but if you knew then, what you know now, would you just have stuck with the Sunamp PV?

That's a pathetic target to reduce heating needs by 15% by 2030. Compared to our last house, my heating needs have dropped by 75% and compared to the one before more like 90%

Between the septic tank and soakaway is usually a sample chamber, one pipe enters, thre is usually a small drop and another pipe exits. the idea being SEPA / EA or whoever can drop a container in and take a sample of your effluent Here is the first one I found doing a quick search. https://www.wplinternational.com/optional-extra/wpl-sample-chamber/

So why did the supplier describe it as 3KWp?

I presume quoting for less than 4KW is because one of the roofs won't fit enough panels? How bad is the shading? Whole roof? one panel?

Yes. With a TNCS / PME supply, neutral and earth come in on the same conductor, It is not unknown for the outer neutral conductor to fail. If that happens and there is a load connected, the "earth" could float up to L potential. Very bad news for someone standing on the ground next to it and touching it. Same reason caravans should be on a TT earth.

I certainly would not pay that. That £40K would buy quite a lot of LPG. Even assuming £1K per year usage that's the next 40 years then.

Indeed. So if new homes won't be able to have gas, what will they use instead? Don't tell me those in charge still believe that wood pellet stoves are carbon neutral or environmentally friendly? If so heaven help us. And if Electricity is to be the new fuel, then what is going to happen over the next 7 years to improve the capacity? Turning more homes all electric, and the growth in electric car usage, is going to impose some massive changes to the network, with little sign of much of a plan to deal with that. Or is there another side to this, the fact that North Sea gas is in decline and it's a case of wanting to reduce our dependance on gas so we are not held ransom to imported gas?

7M from front wall plate to rear wall plate. 45 degree roof pitch. You can do the maths to get the length of each rafter from the ridge beam to the wall plate. They are quite close spaced, 400mm I believe.

My roof span is 7M and uses 195mm timber rafters. Remember these span from the ridge beam to the eaves so are less than 7M long.

Regardless of that though. the current product seems only capable of reliably storing half it's rated capacity. Will n ot others using it a different way, see that ass a failing as well?

Inside to out: skimmed plasterboard Battened service void Air tightness membrane (Protect Bariair) 11mm OSB (for racking strength) 195mm rafters full filled with frametherm 35 100mm Pavatex wood fibre board over rafters Protect VP400 breathable membrane Counter battens Tile battens concrete tiles. The builders built the frame putting the Wood fibre and breathable membrane on the outside. I then fitted everything else from the inside, i.e frametherm between the rafters, then the OSB then the air tight membrane, then the battens and plasterdoard.

I charge £25 per hour, so £200 if I do a full 8 hours (I rarely do that much) and not VAT registered so no VAT obviously. I know plumbers round here are more like £35 per hour.

The sloping ground really does not seem an issue. In the simplest form you did the footings until you hit hard ground. sure the footings may be deeper at one end but it is easy to make them stepped and build up from there. Choosing a septic tank will prevent you from connecting to a watercourse, you would have to accommodate a soakaway somewhere. It really would choose a treatment plant, there is very little extra cost and they are so much better in so many ways.