ProDave

It's voltage drop that will dictate a big cable, not current carrying capacity.

I think they were the last one offering no standing charge for electricity.

Well file it then, just enough to go down the tube, still leaving enough flat to get a spanner on.

So take the nut and washer off, screw the adaptor on, screw the tap connector on and try and assemble it. I am sure you said the nut on the tap connector goes down the main tube?

Hold on, you have the nut on the tap there. you don't need that. Take the nut off and the washer and screw the adaptor bit straight onto the tap then it will go all the way on.

I would spin the corners off on my lathe. But a file will do, it's not as though you will see the finished thing. Of course if you had the proper supplied tap connector it would fit.

I have been reading this thread and would like to know more, purely from an academic point of view: You have tapped into some data on a "TX" pin. How the hell did you figure out what it was transmitting and in what format? hours with an oscilloscope? I bet SA don't publish that information. And once you have found what format it's transmitting, how did you work out what all the data was saying? And last question, what did you use for your monitor? I will guess a raspberry pi?

I believe not. At our previous house we had to have a vent that came up through the floor behind the stove. I think the area of the vent needs to be the same as the area of the flue, so that's quite a big hole.

If you have a stove of 5kW or more, that draws it's combustion air from the room, then you must have a vent of a certain size to let fresh air into that room. Clearly if you have gone to the trouble of making a house air tight (and installed mvhr?) you don't then want to be making a big hole to let air into the room, so a room sealed stove is pretty much essential.

That's referred to as Primary and Secondary air. and some makes of stove that claim ducted air intake that only applies to one. I can confirm our Mendip Stoves Churchill does take both primary and secondary air from the inlet duct and that appeared to be a standard fitment, not a bolt on extra kit.

Yes but I could just not pallet having to pay extra for them NOT to fit something. Someone posted a link recently to a cheap 3G roof window that appeared not to have a vent. The vents on a Velux do appear to seal quite well when shut.

+1 With a central stair well with double doors either side to the two living rooms, with the doors open the heat circulates around the whole house and some goes upstairs as well. Agreed if you have a stove in just one room with no other place for the heat to usefully go, then you would overheat a single room quickly.

No that's just heating. DHW is about half that. I have metering set up so it records electricity used in DHW mode separate to electricity used in heating mode.

They do fail, one at our old house failed at 15 years old but I managed to find an exact replacement.

I am not self sufficient in wood, I have to scavenge and collect a lot of it. The cold winter we were in the static caravan we had a stove in that and it hardly went out from November to March. Keeping it fed with wood was a challenge and we burned coal over night. But it is nice to have the stove knowing each time I light it, that's less electricity the HP will use.

Ah yes, if I lit the stove every day I would not need the heat pump.

But just because the boiler water was too hot, the output from the blending valve should not have been so hot. I would question if the blending valve is faulty?

That is just the metered electricity to power the heat pump in heating mode. I actually generate more with my solar PV in a year than I use heating the house, but of course it does not generate enough in the winter. I am genuinely surprised if you can maintain 18 degrees inside with no heating? How are you heating your house? the average outside temperature here is presently about 6 degrees. There is no way it would be comfortable with no heating.

Unplug the power cord from the pump and check with a couple of probes that it really is getting power.

Ours runs about 6 months of the year, October to March usually. Annual heating cost about £250

Check it is getting power first. Those pumps have a plug in power cord, check it has not come loose.

Hi and welcome. A very topical problem at the moment. Please open a thread and start by telling us what it does right and what it is not doing.

My dad was a plumber. When he re plumbed my first house there was a long run to the bathroom done in 22mm for the bath. I argued with him to fit a 10mm pipe from the hot tank to the basin tap for quicker delivery of hot water. He wouldn't, he said "the water won;t get there any quicker" It was shortly after that I decided to do all my own plumbing......

Another idea might be to raise your concern that you are upgrading the network for future houses. See if you can get a legal undertaking, that if future houses are connected to "your" new cable then the other new houses should be charged a fair proportion of this upgrade work and that money refunded to you.

You really DO need to get the installers back and don't take no for an answer. Have a written list of "issues" like cold radiators, unable to get the house to 20 degrees when it's only 5 degrees outside, noise issues, starting up in the night on it's own etc etc.