ProDave

This page https://www.calor.co.uk/home-energy/new-to-lpg/my-options/lpg-installation-options?tabname=lpg-cylinders Makes reference to the distance sideways to windows, air bricks etc being measured from a "gas bottle valve" not the edge of a cylinder. Now if only I could find a reference to the vertical distance to a window being measured from the valve rather than the drawings implying the top of the cylinder handle?

Yes another hour of nothing. Not even poured any concrete yet. That will be the whole of the next episode. What's the betting the concrete lorry gets stuck in the mud?

Yes but I can feel the blood pressure rising as I bang my head against a brick wall talking to a stubborn BCO. It just adds to the "after completion" list.......

Is the dimmer suitable for LED? As a test fit ONE halogen lamp as a trial.

That worked well NOT. I submitted my query only to get a 403 Forbidden error.

Did I miss a bit? I only see reference to "opening windows" in the calor document, is there a reference to "non opening" or "sealed" windows that I missed?

I am convinced (from my previous dealings many years ago) that you could have a non opening non vented window right behind the cylinder and it would be allowed, but I cannot find anything that actually shows that. My BC is a "show me where it says you can" kind of person where I am arguing the "show me where it says you can't" So unless I can find anything showing a non opening window right behind the cylinders I am stuck.

I don't have any 19kg cylinders. If I have to do that I will but I would probably have to pay a hire charge on yet 2 more cylinders as last time I tried to swap cylinder sizes Calor would not play ball. So I will stick to 47kg unless it become an insurmountable issue.

Yes I think I will just raise the bottom of my windows slightly so they are 300mm above the top of the cylinders, and if they get arsey on completion, swap them for the shorter 19kg cylinders (and swap them straight back again)

And what re heats the tank in the day if you get low on HW?

I guess if I were to game the system, I could install a pair of 19kg cylinders which being so short would easily give ample clearance under the window however you measure the 300mm height, and swap them (back) for 47kg cylinders later. They way I am feeling about BC just now I just might do that.

So close, BUT that 300mm above the cylinders is not very clear. I have That implies it is above the regulator that is an unspecified distance above the top of the cylinder? the picture in post 4 shows the 300mm is above the top of the cylinder.

I think that refers to things at ground level e.g an opening to a basement just like a non trapped drain must be 2m from the cylinders. An opening window on a wall as shown on that pretty picture above can be 1M from the cylinders and it implies, though does not clearly show, if less than 1M horizontally from the cylinders must be 300mm above. I guess what I am seeking to show my dumb BC officer is something that shows a non opening window can be anywhere, or at least that an opening window can be directly above the cylinders as long as it is 300mm above them. Unfortunately that picture shows the window that is 300mm above them off to one side by an unspecified distance. I guess I should just throw it back to them and say "you show me where it says I CAN'T" but I would like to search a bit more for better documentary evidence first.

No. There are rules on pits due to Propane being heavier than air, so you are not allowed cylinders "underground" the best I can do is paving slabs level with the ground. Unless I can find a document or drawing that shows non opening windows I will have to go with raising my window heights slightly which will make the windows slightly smaller. At the moment it is a bare shell so it is easy to block up the window opening to make it a bit smaller. It is a good job I had not already got the windows here or I would now be stuck with no sollution.

This is what Scottish building regs say (no pretty picture) So 1M horizontally to my air bricks. No untgrapped drains within 2M And 300mm vertically to an "opening" So if my windows open, they must be 300mm above the cylinders. but the thing I can't get an answer on and BC are arguing, is does a fixed, non opening, sealed window count as an "opening" in the building. My BC officer says yes. It looks like my only certain route is raise the window height slightly so the windows are all 300mm above the cylinders, then the argument of whether they are an "opening" or not goes away. But I would love to find something that either shows or states clearly that a fixed non opening window is not an "opening"

I am not sure I understand that as the fan of an ASHP is nowhere near the water tank so how will it stir up particles?

No it is not, otherwise there would be fields of them and no housing shortage.

A few points and questions. Generally an ASHP will not heat the UFH at the same time as it is heating DHW. Because they are generally lower power than say a gas boiler they stop doing space heating to put all their energy into DHW. So No 1 make sure you are not asking the DHW to heat up at the same time, set that for different times. Next have a look at the UFH manifold. There should be a temperature gauge on that and a blending valve to set the temperature of the water going into the floor pipes. You might need to adjust that to put more heat into the floors. I still don't think the installers have "finished" because the point of adjusting the flow rate to each of the floor loops is to balance the system so all rooms heat up at the same time. If one room heats up very quickly, reduce the flow rate the the loops in that room. If another room is particularly slow, increase the flow rate to that rooms pipes.

Yes another here who heats the DHW to 48 degrees with the heat pump. the only time it gets heated hotter is when there is surplus solar PV to dump into the immersion heater. The conclusion of the debate was if it is mains treated water into an unvented tank, it will be free of bacteria, because it is sealed in an UVC nothing can get in, and there is enough residue of chlorine to keep it clean, so no legionairs is possible. Different matter if it is borehole or other private water and a vented water tank.

Yes you can have services connected. Any treatment plant will need a building warrant but the "caravan" won't. you will need planning permission though. The caravan thing only exempts you from building control for the "house" This is where it gets intertesting and debatable. Do you apply for PP for a "caravan" or do you apply for a house with a pretty picture of what it looks like, and the "house" then happens to get built complying with the regs for a "caravan" wgile still looking like the picture in the planning?

I don't know the size of your stove but even assuming it is a small 5kW one, then if that struggles to heat ONE room, then there is no way a 7kW ASHP is going to heat the whole house. As has been said many times, this heating system is not correct to heat this particular house, the installer who "designed" it has failed. Probably all you can do now is regard it as background heating with something else to make up the short fall. I don't envy you your heating bills but this is what you get with an old cottage.

Yes accepted that "on" does not mean "running" Also, like now, when it is just feeding the bathroom UFH the ASHP compressor does not start up very often. I do time the DHW to not come on until late morning to ensure that is running when it is likely there will be good PV generation to help with maximum self use. I have been put off off peak tariffs due to the much higher daytime rates and standing charges. I am sure COP will be worse at night, here it was -4 last night and a hard frost. It might just get up to 0 if the sun stays out today. But the issue is not so much a drop in COP but if you work the ASHP too hard when it's cold, icing may be an issue and it may need to defrost. It is probably okay today as being so cold humidity will be low. That is more an issue when the temperature is stuck around 0 and it's snowing / sleeting.

Bleed the radiators, you probably have air in the system, you will need to top up the system pressure as you do that.

Mine is "on" all day from 6AM to 9PM. It goes off at night for a silent night, though the only noise is a gentle low level hum from the water circulating pump that would only bother 1 other person i can think of. The reality is after it has warmed up in the morning the room stats turn on and off just to maintain the lower level heat input to maintain the room temperature. e.g right now it is only the bathroom keeping it running just now all downstairs rooms have turned off.

Plus the cost of any work to make it comply, which could be rip it all out and start completely from scratch.