ProDave

An inward opening door is a flawed design for a door facing the prevailing wind. On a windy day you will not stop some water getting over the drip beads and finding it's way into the gap between the door frame and door at the bottom, with the only thing holding it back being the seal. Even if the seal is perfect, there will be a little bit of water sitting there, just waiting to come in when you open the door. Ask me how I know.

If this open fire proposal is for a new build, do come back and tell us what building control say and if they pass it please.

Would it even be possible just to drill a hole in the bottom of the existing thermostat housing so that just pokes out the bottom? That would be a neat solution.

The counter argument, is a gas connection comes with a cost, the gas work must be done by a gas safe engineer with a cost, there is an annual service with a cost. On the other hand many of us have sourced our own ASHP's and self installed them for less than the gas connection would have cost, even if gas were available. I accept if you have gas then a gas boiler will be the cheapest system, but for those that don't have gas and can't get it, an ASHP is far more attractive than other alternatives.

Toilet cleaners are okay in small quantities as are normal detergents etc. Don't put anything down the toilet that has not been eaten first.

That should not affect the HP settings but it will affect the immersion wiring and may mean the immersion can no longer be controlled from the HP.

If you are comitted to them, then the only sensible solution is convert them all to remote sensor with the sensor just below them.

I remember when I set up my ASHP I found it wanted to only heat the DHW part way with the ASHP then turn on the immersion heater. It took quite a lot of settings to disable that and heat it just with the ASHP.

It all depends on wayleaves and ownership of land it has to cross. Work on a new cable coming under the road, including a road crossing and your £15K could well be true, but it might be less. You also need to find the cost of a water connection, that might be another shock. Why can't you wait? Don't be bullied into completing on the purchase until you are satisfied.

Something like this? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4kW-4000W-Domestic-Solar-PV-Kit-System-TRADE-DIY-Cheapest-in-UK/401879970422?hash=item5d91e9b276:g:7wwAAOSw81Jdd7Zu

That suggestion was the bargain basement stuff. But you do need a serious think would you actually want solar PV? you can get a 4kWp kit for about £2000 plus install costs (a day for a roofer and a day for an electrician) which would be a better prospect and much more useful in terms of real energy produced, most of which you should be able to self use.

IF as others suggest, the blending valve should be at the left, then by putting yours at the right it will be ported wrong. So it is not working because it is connected wrong. What is needed is not just a pretty photograph from the internet to show how it should be, but the actual manufacturers instructions to answer beyond doubt if it is assembled correctly or not.

Okay you want bargain basement. 2 of these https://www.bimblesolar.com/solar/individual/canadian-solar-305w?sort=p.price&order=ASC One of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/600W-Solar-On-Grid-Tie-Inverter-MPPT-DC20-60V-to-AC230V-Pure-Sine-Wave-Inverter/402462006208?hash=item5db49adbc0:g:lYAAAOSwdvlfcY0T Then add ac isolator, DC isolator, generation meter. And you have SAP compliance for about £300 plus a bit of sparky time. Have you actually had a blower door air test done? Or is that air test figures a guess at what it might be?

Don't re invent the wheel https://www.screwfix.com/p/surestop-remote-stop-cock-22mm/57455

What have you so much against a few PV panels? If you don't like them on the house roof then put them on a shed roof or ground mount them?

Pictures of the roof? If there aer not many broken tiles have you thought of re using?

Yes no luxuries. the shower flow was in the "barely adequate" category.

What heats the water? Ours had an 11kW instant gas water heater. It had a temperature dial on it. We "calibrated" that with two settings, "warm" and "hot" On the "warm" setting you just turned the shower hot tap on full and it delivered shower temperature water. We only turned it to the "hot" setting for washing up where it then delivered a slower flow of water that you could just hold your hand under for washing up. I doubt you will find a thermostatic mixer to fit, "caravan" fittings are unique in many respects and domestic stuff just won't fit in most cases.

One way to measure heat loss is use and independant, measurable source of heat for a period. e.g when the fabric of our build was completed, long before the house was habitable I wanted to see if the insulation etc came close to what was predicted. So for a whole month, I had a single electric convector heater turned on in the centre of the ground floor of the house running at a known power level and with it's thermostat turned up to max so it would run continually. I logged the internal and external temperature dailiy so had a measure of the temperature difference between inside and out and throughout the test period the temperature difference almost exactly matched the predicted temperature difference for that amount of heat power into the house. I can see the installers POV as well as yours. You told him this is the insulation values that you will install. So he calculated the heat loss based on that. The heat loss now appears to be a different figure, of course he is going to blame you. He did not fit the insulation did he? Perhaps a lesson for others is don't size the heat pump on exactly the predicted heat loss, size it a bit bigger to allow for the heat loss being greater than you think. The bottom line is, regardless of flow and return temperatures, is the house getting hot enough?

Have you looked at levels yet? Regardless of which route you take, it looks to me like the new house is lower down the slope than the road. Depending on how deep the sewer is in the road, you might very well need a holding tank and pumping station.

Very likely. For a long time early in the build we had cardboard doors on most of the rooms.

What is this "lowest setting"? do you mean you have the water temperature turned right down? What is the water temperature set to?

Need to take it all apart, open up the wall, modify the drain pipe so it comes out higher up the wall and re assemble. It's "little" things like this that on another thread I said there is a LOT more to being a successful tradesman than knowing the regs.

But why would you want to remove them? If you buy carefully I reckon the self use of any electricity generated will paqy back the costs in about 6 years, so not only will you have got your SAP pass for not a lot of money, you will have lower electricity bills for the forseeable future.

Most electricians have a dim view of the short courses and their candidates have earned the name "5 week wonder". The big problem is the course might teach you the regulations and you might pass the exam, but you will probably learn nothing about real practical sparky work. It is as much about understanding buildings, how to route cables through an existing house etc to make wiring alterations, knowing what you can and importantly can not do. The practical aspect takes time to learn, which is why without doubt the best way to learn it is an apprenticeship.