ProDave

For completion, you need the required level hard standing parking area and a hard path from there to the main door without steps (a ramp) and all the other doors need steps or other means of access. It was pretty obvious the steps from our patio door were not permanent but they were accepted. You also need the trivial things like bin storage space and a washing line. Apart from that, your garden could resemble the Somme and there would be no reason to refuse a completion certificate.

Basically safe and livable. We had a working kitchen, one working bathroom, working heating, but a lot of internal work needing finished. This was Highland council. I have heard some say that some Scottish council's wont issue a temporary habitation. We also used the temporary habitation as "proof of completion" for the VAT claim.

We moved to normal insurance when we got a certificate of temporary habitation when the house was nearly finished.

Strictly speaking they all just have to be "non flamable" it's just that nobody yet has certified a plastic one as being non flamable.

And don't forget above a certain height handrails will also be needed.

It sounds like batteries to me. the flyer says: "It would comprise of a compound of electrical equipment, battery units, transformers, store and energy meter building" There was one company on the news recently building a trial storage plant that literally wound a stack of concrete blocks to the top of a tower to store energy then let them back down again to generate energy.

Last night was forecast to be cold here with possible a light frost. so I took a meter reading at 10PM and another at 8AM this morning, so a 10 hour cold overnight period. In that time my LG ASHP use 0.2kWh I chose this cold night as I knew it would be cold enough to trigger the anti frost water circulation function a few times, so that will have been 2 circulating pumps and 2 motorised valves energised a few times. When we get back to some proper weather with warm nights I will repeat that test when I know the anti frost function is not triggered.

I had to fit a second pump inside the house because I could not get enough water flow rate to keep the ASHP happy. If you are determined it will run entirely on the outside pump, then plumb accordingly, i.e. 28mm main flow and return to start with (mine is only 22mm)

Lucky you. Try managing with 3MBPS on a good day.

It's about a mile from us, over the brow of a hill, and not upwind (prevailing wind) of us. In fact there is only one house close to it, and that is a croft. I would not be happy if I was that croft, but it would not surprise me if it was their land the plant will be on, and they will be adequately compensated so they don't worry about it.

An interesting flyer popped through the door today, sent to all houses in the locality. Just over the hill from here, on the way into town, they are starting the initial planning of a grid scale battery storage plant. The proposal is to take over a field next to a local substation, and fill it with battery storage. Details are scarce at the moment but the companies website talks of short term storage, up to 4 hours, to charge at times of surplus renewable energy and discharge at peak demand times. It won't affect us, it will be well out of site and probably not very visible either from the road as the substation it will be adjacent to is down in a dip. Someone thinks it is now viable to spend a lot of money on a lot of batteries.

Yes it is and that is mainly where is is used on my build, but I used the leftovers to line the walls of my sun room. If it's good for a roof I can't see why it would be no good for a wall was my thinking.

You might be very lucky and find the metal one you linked to has the same thread as the original plastic one. That is if the plastic one ecen screws in or is fixed some other way. That rose is probably meant to be used with a decorative metal cowl so the appearance of the plastic cable grip does not matter. Are you trying to use it without the cowl?

So what stops you getting the "temporary" meter in a kiosk, and then never quite "finishing" the house so never asking for the meter to be moved? Are they actually going to come and check and insist they move it?

Coach bolts is what you are looking for. Big wood screws with a hex, or sometimes square head. Probably best to drill a small pilot hole to make them easier to screw in straight, and definitely a larger pilot hole through the brick slips and backing board.

My stairs were difficult. It is 2 strings joined by a half landing. The one insurmountable design feature is the lower string had to be slightly shorter than the top string so that meant an odd number of steps, so we ended up with 13 steps total. That pushed the rise to close to the maximum, 202mm iirc, I compensated for that by making the going as long as the space I had which ended up with a pitch of I think 40 degrees. I couldn't go up to 15 steps total as the bottom string would be too long then even at the minimum going.

My sun room was left for about 4 years, just the bare frame covered in VP400. When I eventually got to cladding that, the VP400 was well faded but still sound, and an exploratory lifting a bit revealed the OSB cladding of the frame was as good as new underneath, so I just fitted the cladding. I doubt anyone will actually guarantee their membrane for 4 years exposure, but that was just my real world findings.

Another vote for VP400. Our builders chose it because they said it was rated to be left exposed for longer than most others and ours was a slow build.

But if you put DC into an inductive motor winding, the current flow would be a LOT higher, it would just be the winding resistance, so if using DC for energising the stator winding as a heater, it would have to be a much lower voltage.

Yes but to turn it fully off means turning the power off, and there was mention of 2 hours warm up time required? So not an easy "solution" Until told otherwise, look for an ASHP with a scroll compressor which don't seem to need this heater?

In a well insulated air tight house MVHR offers substantial advantages. I assume the use of "negligible" was a typo? Re that latter questions. Letterbox, don't have one, a box on the wall outside. Fireplace, don't have an open fireplace but if you want fire have a properly flued stove with combustion air ducted in directly from outside, i.e. room sealed. Cat flap, open the door to let the cat in / out etc. Drains won't leak air, the water traps see to that, just make sure all pipe penetrations in and out of the building are sealed.

And to complete the list, Conder and Graff are 2 more air blower treatment plants. On a technical level there is not much to choose between them so often people find the choice is whichever one you can get the best deal on including delivery to your house. In my case I chose conder because I got a good price from Travis Perkins and that included delivery and offload by their own waggon.

You can buy support brackets to fix into a corner like you have, A bit like these Obviously choose the length and diameter to suit your pipe. I would fit one as high up as possible to the roof on the twin wall, and one lower down, right at the single to double adaptor.

Electronic meters only count up the useage I thought at each 1Wh that passes. That is the trick that allows pulsed immersion heater PV dump units to work. By turning a 3kW heater on for short bursts, and then off again, the same small bit of energy is being exported then imported and if the total flowing either way exceeds the threshold it will then be counted, but keep the "energy bucket" flowing back and forth small enough and it never gets metered. But a continuous load, however small would just count up until it reaches the threshold to click the metered count up by 1. However long that takes. My ASHP meter is an old spinning disk meter.

This background / compressor heating load is certainly something I was not aware of and a question you should all now ask of the manufacturer before deciding which ASHP to use. A 200W background load in your house would be bad enough, one in a box out in the garden is worse.