ProDave

That's the point of a wet room, no steps in the floor, just one continuous floor throughput. that does not mean it all gets wet.

Well done. We look forward to watching it all happen.

Would it really make a difference? A burst stream overtopping a bund is likely to be a lot more water than that will pump. Raise the bund further?

Hi and welcome. With that plot requirement, I hope you have very deep pockets.

Re the plant room too small. I allocated a large plant room, then found there was very little "plant" to put there. Just the MVHR and some valves and a pump. the HW tank went elsewhere.

Wow. that sounds a pretty poor detail. I take it this is because concrete beams and blocks don't bother about a damp humid environment as much as timber would? but I don't think I would be happy knowing it could be a wet muddy mess under there.

You are essentially building a bungalow that you could one day develop the upstairs. I would build the upstairs structurally now as if it was going to be 2 storey but do nothing with it. I would put the stairs in leading to a small landing with a fire door into a boarded loft storage space. You should be able to get completion like that and lower council tax banding. If you do then develop the roof later the council tax should not go up.

Surely only a water to water heat pump can do that? (wait to be proved wrong with a clever diagram)

Not understanding the floor build up? Diagram? I thought the beams span wall to wall infilled with blocks so where does the insulation under the B&B floor fit in? Surely that needs to be a ventilated space? Yes you are right I have never looked at a B&B floor between but I would have assumed the same principles as a timber suspended floor apply that you have a DPM and a thin layer of concrete to seal the under floor space (solum) and that is above outside ground level and ventilated so something has gone wrong if it manages to fill up with water.

Is the site layout plan north up? Assuming it is, what is the the left (west) of the plot? It is a shame not to have any west facing windows for evening sun

No they are not all equal. My little petrol one that I can (just about) pick up on my own is nothing compared to say the big diesel ones. For me it was a case of buy what came up for sale locally, or (in this instance) near a route I was travelling to get somewhere else so I did not have the luxury of choice. I found not many for sale so unless you are buying new, you might also find limited choice.

What about them? Obviously don't put the litter trays where the shower is. Not all of a wet room actually gets wet. Though I admit our cat does get up off the mat and leaves the room when you turn the shower on.

You want to dispatch them as soon as possible by whatever means. I have seen the result of them chewing plastic water pipes and plastic bits on the underside of a dishwasher.

My version of that is make your en-suite a proper wet room. Once you have had a wet room, you will never by choice have an ordinary room with a shower cubicle ever again. And put the bathtub, that gets used once in a blue moon, in the family bathroom (which is also another wet room) which actually means the family bathroom is slightly larger than our en-suite. Another tip for quiet, is NEVER place a WC on a wall adjoining a bedroom (your own or the other bedroom) they will know every time you flush it and the cistern refills.

Do beam and block floors not have a concreted "solum" with DPM as you do with a timber suspended floor?

Which one(s) are you trying to increase? they all look pretty good apart from the one on the right, which looks like it has some way to go if you want to increase it. Be aware there is no "stop" on the adjustment and you can unscrew the flow meter completely, then you get wet. (you don't need to ask how i know)

I dispute that. Sub zero temperatures here today and my ASHP is working fine to heat my low energy house. If you just buy and ASHP and get a normal * plumber and electrician to install it (or do some yourself if capable) they need not be expensive. * by normal I mean someone capable of reading and installation manual. I have been shocked on occasions at wrongly fitted ASHP's because they apparently cannot read and connect it as though it were a gas boiler.

You should have a CO alarm in any room that the flue passes through, so that will alert you if there is any leak long before you see anything.

Trying to seal under the door is a futile exercise. Just like people sand bagging the front door. No house it totally water tight as in swimming pool water tight. All you will do is slow down, not stop, the rate of water entering the house.

What has the contractor said when you told them to come back and rectify the problem? In law you must first give the original contractor chance to rectify the problem.

All ours are 900 wide panes and they work well, so would be 3 for your window.

Get the installer back, get the flue swept and get him to test it with a smoke candle. As above, the joints in the flue are not necessarily sealed because a flue should be drawing air, so any leak will suck in air from the room, not expel smoke. I would be looking at the MVHR setup or just turn it off to rule out depresurisation of the house. Is the stove room sealed? or does it draw air from the room? if so is there an adequate air vent close to the stove?

BC are looking for the installation checklist to be signed and dated by someone they know and have already checked his credentials. They took one look at the name on mine and said that's fine. I paid a LOT less than £300 for the plumber to make the final connections test it and sign it off.

An outward opening door is less reliant on seals to make it watertight, and might be good for an exposed to rain elevation? On the other hand an outward opening door on a windy day is a very bad idea. If you are talking of security as in someone breaking in, I doubt there is any difference.

They can get through the holes in a standard air brick.