MikeGrahamT21

I got compatibles off ebay, itzala I think was the company, somewhere in europe, they took a while to come but were about a quarter the price of velux.

Sometimes leaks require a certain amount of pressure to leak if you know what I mean. Once it’s hot and pressure has risen that may be just enough to tip it over

Probably PEX. If its continuous lengths between radiators shouldn't be any leaks, but if there are joints it could be one of those leaking. PEX is meant to have an oxygen barrier to prevent air getting into the system, but even the best PEX this tends to only work to 50C maxmium, so there could be a bit of air ingress if its not up to spec, but still don't think it would add up to the amount your topping up. If you can view anywhere under the floor without destruction, see if you can see any joints in the pipe, if you can, then they will need inspecting until you find the rogue one.

Hard to know for sure, but you'll know roughly how long the taps are open when refilling, it won't be an insignificant amount I know that. What type of pipe are you using to connect all the rads?

Can they not supply the timber you need direct to you? Can't be wrong then

In the wrong place? Usually they are part of the boiler. Certainly can't rule out a leak under the floor if everything else checks out

Dodgy pressure guage? Does tapping it move it?

How old are the rads? Older radiators will be corroding and letting off gas, most boilers have an air release valve built into them meaning pressure will drop over time. If thats the case, you probably need rads cleaning out and then fresh inhibitor adding to the system.

No problems, let us know how it goes! ?

If it were me, i'd do the following: Remove that ridge til which has the gap against the flashing, ensure that the flashing is formed correctly to drain water away, and reset the ridge tile, ensure all pointed up. (i would hope that will cure this!) Photo 2 - Not sure where this fits in, but clear all the rubbish off of that flat roof area, form the flashing down so it actually touches and doesn't leave a gap, and stick with roofing adhesive Photo 4 - Apply roofing adhesive, and close the gap again The dry verge can be a bit tight at times, depending on brand, i've had loose fit and tight fit versions, its not the end of the world, but clearly wasn't the right one for your tiles.

Wow that is shocking for all that money!! Can you take a photo of the entire roof and mark on where the water is entering the building? Pointing that ridge tile up will quite possibly help matters too!

Another one for you with a few more facts and figures Also another config with Aircrete:

I hope these aren't pictures of the re-roof which has been done at a cost of £8k! ?

I know this isn't the same, but i've had smart meters fitted at a couple of properties recently without issues, can't imagine new supply is so much different that they can't do it.

Take a look on eBay, some good units on there at the moment, for good prices!

Calculations incorrect?? ubakus.com tells me 0.26U with 40 grade wool insulation with 32 grade wool insulation this goes to 0.22U

What were the problems? Maybe we can shed some light on these, filling the cavity would be a good option.

This may change things slightly...the foil coating on the PIR only works if it has a 25mm air gap infront of it, so you would be best with 2x25mm, AVCL, battens with 25mm gap and then PB. If you don't leave the gap, that foil turns from reflective to conductive. Hope it helps!

wall you removed is just a stud partition, wouldn't have provided structural support but may have taken some flex out of the joists if they are running in opposite direction

Yeah I'm not too sure either. Varies with BCO, some are really strict, and others just look for important bits. Also depends on the kind of pipe used, i only used the tape on my 125mm plastic pipe joints, whether it sealed anything i've no idea, but I had some so thought i'd do it while i was up there.

I can understand it under doors, as the length of compacfoam will be supported by something all the way underneath, but for a window, its going to be down to however many mechnical fixings plus glue, and thats the bit which scares me!

I can't find where i read it now. I know BPC state to use aluminium tape: https://www.bpcventilation.com/media/download_documents/bpc_new_installation_manual_2019_printer_version_secured.pdf I have read it though I promise, BCO's look for the tape on the joints.

This is a BC requirement, has to be aluminium tape

Did you get anywhere with these? I’m thinking of doing the one window which is getting moved out this year possibly. I’ve got a sample of compacfoam now but just don’t think it’s strong enough to hold a full large window by itself and the fire risk i mentioned. Interesting material though for sure!

require? What the Mrs wants? ?