MikeGrahamT21

I hope these aren't pictures of the re-roof which has been done at a cost of £8k! ?

I know this isn't the same, but i've had smart meters fitted at a couple of properties recently without issues, can't imagine new supply is so much different that they can't do it.

Take a look on eBay, some good units on there at the moment, for good prices!

Calculations incorrect?? ubakus.com tells me 0.26U with 40 grade wool insulation with 32 grade wool insulation this goes to 0.22U

What were the problems? Maybe we can shed some light on these, filling the cavity would be a good option.

This may change things slightly...the foil coating on the PIR only works if it has a 25mm air gap infront of it, so you would be best with 2x25mm, AVCL, battens with 25mm gap and then PB. If you don't leave the gap, that foil turns from reflective to conductive. Hope it helps!

wall you removed is just a stud partition, wouldn't have provided structural support but may have taken some flex out of the joists if they are running in opposite direction

Yeah I'm not too sure either. Varies with BCO, some are really strict, and others just look for important bits. Also depends on the kind of pipe used, i only used the tape on my 125mm plastic pipe joints, whether it sealed anything i've no idea, but I had some so thought i'd do it while i was up there.

I can understand it under doors, as the length of compacfoam will be supported by something all the way underneath, but for a window, its going to be down to however many mechnical fixings plus glue, and thats the bit which scares me!

I can't find where i read it now. I know BPC state to use aluminium tape: https://www.bpcventilation.com/media/download_documents/bpc_new_installation_manual_2019_printer_version_secured.pdf I have read it though I promise, BCO's look for the tape on the joints.

This is a BC requirement, has to be aluminium tape

Did you get anywhere with these? I’m thinking of doing the one window which is getting moved out this year possibly. I’ve got a sample of compacfoam now but just don’t think it’s strong enough to hold a full large window by itself and the fire risk i mentioned. Interesting material though for sure!

require? What the Mrs wants? ?

Never had anything to do with these, but they feature heavily in the grand designs magazine, and if that has any precedent they're likely top heavy on price, but you'll only know that for sure with a quote.

i'll agree to disagree on that one. Would love to know the percentage of 'modern' landfill sites and how many of these impermeable layers have been breached in some way. I don't see anything man-made in steel... And a quote from F&B. The steel (not tin) cans actually have a zinc coating (from memory) on the inside to stop rust, I don't see any plastic on any of my steel cans. Anyway, like I say, i'll agree to disagree.

Not sure i agree with you on that front. Plastic in landfill will leach toxins into the ground and also slowly break down into micro plastics over the years, steel will do neither.

probably, but regardless its better a metal tin being in landfill than a plastic one ?

I've been through many paints over the years: Started with Dulux - Was OK, but never liked how it went on and was quite smelly Crown Breatheasy next - Nicer than Dulux, and smells much less Wilko Scrubbable - About as nice as Crown for application, less expensive than the above, but does smell quite a bit F&B Modern - Went on like a dream, its a lot lot thinner than the other brands i've used, thought this was a problem at first, but turned out it was this that made it better. Left a much smoother finish than the other paints, making wiping much easier - Using same roller as i used above - Out of all of the paints this was the least smelly, even in the modern, washable version Little Greene - Slightly thicker than F&B but thinner than the others, tiny bit of odour but less than the others aside from F&B. Doesn't cover quite as well as F&B with it being slightly thicker. Would definitely go for the F&B again over the others, its a shame it costs so much more, but you get what you pay for, and a metal tin rather than the horrid plastic ones causing more plastic waste.

In my experience councils get very precious about cladding, i have recently been through planning for an extension and cladding, and they wouldn't let me have the larch i was wanting, even if I stained it in the colour they wanted (brown), because they were worried that it was not enforceable. In the end they had a condition put on my approval to say that i MUST use thermowood, but in my case I don't think they were too bothered about design, it was more the colour.

Insulation choice gets squeezed with thin joints, but as you say full fill i'm guessing you are going for fibreglass/wool? If so this will be OK. If you are thinking full fill PIR, this is a no go, as the boards are designed for traditional mortar joints, not thin joint.

District heating is a good option, but to be honest so is the gas grid...I know theres been a lot of negativity about gas, and natural gas does need to reduce, but as we use ever more hydrogen in the network, and also synthesis gas generated as a by product from waste etc, the gas grid will become far more efficient and low carbon than electric will be for a long time

Do you have the option of adding flue gas heat recovery on your boiler? That would give you a few points

Would work out cheaper for me too...but who determines the price of the house, and is it fixed, or dynamic?

Flooring was actually just some cheap laminate from B&Q which I put in many years ago when this used to be a dining room, to stop the house rabbit eating the Lino I used to have down. When I came to do this, it was still in great condition, and I had a load of spare lengths, so I chose the best bits and relayed just in the kitchen area, seemed a shame to throw it away and I was happy with the colour match. May have been walnut effect?

Certainly looks the same doesn't it. Although it doesn't explicitly say, the diagram appears to suggest the seal goes on in one piece and the hinges go over the top of it. It seems like a good place to start I guess, rather than cutting bits.