MikeGrahamT21

Dodgy pressure guage? Does tapping it move it?

How old are the rads? Older radiators will be corroding and letting off gas, most boilers have an air release valve built into them meaning pressure will drop over time. If thats the case, you probably need rads cleaning out and then fresh inhibitor adding to the system.

No problems, let us know how it goes! ?

If it were me, i'd do the following: Remove that ridge til which has the gap against the flashing, ensure that the flashing is formed correctly to drain water away, and reset the ridge tile, ensure all pointed up. (i would hope that will cure this!) Photo 2 - Not sure where this fits in, but clear all the rubbish off of that flat roof area, form the flashing down so it actually touches and doesn't leave a gap, and stick with roofing adhesive Photo 4 - Apply roofing adhesive, and close the gap again The dry verge can be a bit tight at times, depending on brand, i've had loose fit and tight fit versions, its not the end of the world, but clearly wasn't the right one for your tiles.

Wow that is shocking for all that money!! Can you take a photo of the entire roof and mark on where the water is entering the building? Pointing that ridge tile up will quite possibly help matters too!

Another one for you with a few more facts and figures Also another config with Aircrete:

I hope these aren't pictures of the re-roof which has been done at a cost of £8k! ?

I know this isn't the same, but i've had smart meters fitted at a couple of properties recently without issues, can't imagine new supply is so much different that they can't do it.

Take a look on eBay, some good units on there at the moment, for good prices!

Calculations incorrect?? ubakus.com tells me 0.26U with 40 grade wool insulation with 32 grade wool insulation this goes to 0.22U

What were the problems? Maybe we can shed some light on these, filling the cavity would be a good option.

This may change things slightly...the foil coating on the PIR only works if it has a 25mm air gap infront of it, so you would be best with 2x25mm, AVCL, battens with 25mm gap and then PB. If you don't leave the gap, that foil turns from reflective to conductive. Hope it helps!

wall you removed is just a stud partition, wouldn't have provided structural support but may have taken some flex out of the joists if they are running in opposite direction

Yeah I'm not too sure either. Varies with BCO, some are really strict, and others just look for important bits. Also depends on the kind of pipe used, i only used the tape on my 125mm plastic pipe joints, whether it sealed anything i've no idea, but I had some so thought i'd do it while i was up there.

I can understand it under doors, as the length of compacfoam will be supported by something all the way underneath, but for a window, its going to be down to however many mechnical fixings plus glue, and thats the bit which scares me!

I can't find where i read it now. I know BPC state to use aluminium tape: https://www.bpcventilation.com/media/download_documents/bpc_new_installation_manual_2019_printer_version_secured.pdf I have read it though I promise, BCO's look for the tape on the joints.

This is a BC requirement, has to be aluminium tape

Did you get anywhere with these? I’m thinking of doing the one window which is getting moved out this year possibly. I’ve got a sample of compacfoam now but just don’t think it’s strong enough to hold a full large window by itself and the fire risk i mentioned. Interesting material though for sure!

require? What the Mrs wants? ?

Never had anything to do with these, but they feature heavily in the grand designs magazine, and if that has any precedent they're likely top heavy on price, but you'll only know that for sure with a quote.

i'll agree to disagree on that one. Would love to know the percentage of 'modern' landfill sites and how many of these impermeable layers have been breached in some way. I don't see anything man-made in steel... And a quote from F&B. The steel (not tin) cans actually have a zinc coating (from memory) on the inside to stop rust, I don't see any plastic on any of my steel cans. Anyway, like I say, i'll agree to disagree.

Not sure i agree with you on that front. Plastic in landfill will leach toxins into the ground and also slowly break down into micro plastics over the years, steel will do neither.

probably, but regardless its better a metal tin being in landfill than a plastic one ?

I've been through many paints over the years: Started with Dulux - Was OK, but never liked how it went on and was quite smelly Crown Breatheasy next - Nicer than Dulux, and smells much less Wilko Scrubbable - About as nice as Crown for application, less expensive than the above, but does smell quite a bit F&B Modern - Went on like a dream, its a lot lot thinner than the other brands i've used, thought this was a problem at first, but turned out it was this that made it better. Left a much smoother finish than the other paints, making wiping much easier - Using same roller as i used above - Out of all of the paints this was the least smelly, even in the modern, washable version Little Greene - Slightly thicker than F&B but thinner than the others, tiny bit of odour but less than the others aside from F&B. Doesn't cover quite as well as F&B with it being slightly thicker. Would definitely go for the F&B again over the others, its a shame it costs so much more, but you get what you pay for, and a metal tin rather than the horrid plastic ones causing more plastic waste.

In my experience councils get very precious about cladding, i have recently been through planning for an extension and cladding, and they wouldn't let me have the larch i was wanting, even if I stained it in the colour they wanted (brown), because they were worried that it was not enforceable. In the end they had a condition put on my approval to say that i MUST use thermowood, but in my case I don't think they were too bothered about design, it was more the colour.