MikeGrahamT21

Can you have a second non-fit install without disturbing anything for the FiT? I've a nice south facing utility which could house 6 panels, could go hybrid inverter and maybe battery, but can it all be linked into the existing panels too for energy storage? or too complicated? I guess a DNO application would be needed too over 4kWp?

Have a look here: https://www.itstechnologies.shop/collections/single-solar-panel-order/single-panel

Kinda… South Yorkshire ?

Fingers crossed for you. I've used only 1/3rd of the amount of gas (m3) this October compared to last October (pending monthly statement from Zog) Tado is telling me Oct 2020 - 92hrs 29mins heating Oct 2021 - 8hrs 24 heating And i've definitely not been cold! Also just dropped the flow temperature to 50C from 55C which should further reduce usage, 55C was too much of a hit when it turned on.

You don't seem to have much luck with your plumbing do you?! Hope its sorted soon, be very interested to know how the EWI performs compared to last year

I'd forgotten just how nice it is to have carpet!! Just one more piece of furniture and some shelves to go in the left hand alcove. Also decided to drop the coffee table in favour of the nest of tables...may sell it later down the line as i've not got anywhere else for it to go

I used a local chap based in Barnsley for my privately paid for party wall insulation a couple of years back, not sure how far he would travel though. I will PM you his details

Unfortunately i'd say thats the going price for these type companies, but what you want can be done a LOT cheaper by a good joiner

Looking stunning! You must be extremely pleased especially for that price

Window will still be the coldest part, even in the best house. From what I’ve learnt, the effect of cooler air pushing down and hot air rising, causes the mixture of both to push into the room rather than just rising up, going along the ceiling and dropping as it cools, which should result in higher levels of comfort in theory

My C-studs are connected to the floor and ceiling using the U-channels, it doesn't touch the party wall at all.

Even with a parge coat you'll likely get cracking on aircrete blocks. I'd go even further than this, and use a parge coat with embedded mesh, this may give a little more resilience.

I've just done exactly this:

Yeah I used to have a DVD to do all the colour setup, not sure what i did with it, was very useful though. The one thing I'm trying to figure out at the moment, is the two main OLEDs seem to be entry level doing 4K@60 and the better one doing 4K@120, now my AVR will only do 4K@60, so is it worth going any more than this, or will the TV adapt the content, and run at 120? Obviously there is the processor side of things, but I just use the TV as a screen, everything else i have seperate plugged into the AVR. Can't seem to find an answer to the refresh rate question though. I suspect it will only ever do 60Hz on this AVR. Anyway, for now this one is staying, i'm all spent up! ?

I know when i've been to John lewis and looked at TVs, its sometimes hard to see the difference between a really expensive OLED, and much cheaper LED on the demo content, I mean there must be some difference, but it does make you think is it worth going for the super expensive. OLED is coming down in cost now though finally, and should even more so next year when Samsung enter the market.

Everyone has said that to me, the plan is a 55 OLED in the future, but I love this old sammy, in fairness it doesn't look quite as small in real life, iphone camera trick i think.

Wow that took me a long time, what a difference a year makes! I did always know that it was going to be a difficult room to do, and also the largest in the bungalow, but I have reached completion, apart from the carpet which is on order. So firstly there was the repair to the area under the window, which needed the brickwork rebuilding and then replastering... Next I started work on the acoustic wall, comprising of a metal framing system filled with Ultrawool, sheeps wool insulation, and topped with a soundblock 12.5mm board, no photos of the wool, as it was a bit of a battle to keep it in place ? After all the planning, the old chimney breast for my media kit was looking rather tight, but luckily tape measure didn't let me down! All painted up... Gypsum cladding installed, alcoves painted, and TV installed... And finally, window reveal and window board painted (window board at the moment is just the ply holding the bow window up, as at some point (maybe next year) this window is being replaced with a 3G flat window, so this will be removed), curtain pole and radiator reinstalled... Will put a final photo up once carpet is in and all furniture is back. What a push all that was!!

Have you considered mounting insulation on the external side and then membrane and batten?

You need some measurement tools to start off. Get yourself a hygrometer, and also a moisture meter, one to see how humid the environment is, and another to do spot tests and see just how humid the materials are. They are very cheap to buy, but will give invaluable information as to whether this is indeed moisture, or some kind of chemical reaction happening.

I'm in a very similar position, and i'll be honest if you can actually find someone who is even willing to give you a quote i'd be amazed! I'm thinking the delay won't do me any harm, and much like you i'm not in a huge rush, it can be left indefinitely.

Just so i'm doubly sure... I say 'Tiling' as these are actually gypsum tiles stuck on with plasterboard adhesive. I'm thinking... I've already skimmed the plasterboard (and now wish i'd not wasted the energy! lol) SBR Bond to prime Plasterboard adhesive and Tiles Sound OK? Cheers Mike

From my experience you'll be lucky if you can even get someone to reply!

Hmm OK, may be worth an email to the council. I’m hoping it doesn’t come to this, still a good 18 months to go yet, but time soon flies!

Rated for 6000 cycles so despite long payback period it’s looking a lot more appealing

Yeah as above you need an inverter to make it AC. DC isn’t doable with FiT as the battery would take the generated power and not register it on your meter