MikeGrahamT21

Taken a few readings using an IR non contact thermometer, not much wind today. the fixed frame showed an improvement of between 0.3 and 0.5C between the ‘improved’ and original frame. the opener showed between 0.0 and 0.1C improvement. on a day which is quite still I’d say this makes sense, so the opener has drainage holes but they drain into the main window profile which then drains externally, so any air movement would have a longer more complex route. can’t comment on sound insulation as both of the treated areas are at the back of the property away from road side. I have ordered another 50m of rod to complete the other windows, which all in moneywise will be around £20. will try and remember to take some acoustic readings on my phone before and after when I do a window at the front facing the road, and also take additional reading’s temperature wise when we are forecast some strong wind which I think is due this week.

ahh i was wondering the other night what the more expensive window manufacturers used if anything, not sure i'd like to swap a glazed unit out though if they're glued in

Arrived today so thought may as well get it in place on my afternoon off. Did one fixed pane on one window and one opener on another, fiddly as expected but not overly so, pushed the rod in to roughly where the centre pane of glass sits in the 3G unit beading’s off absolutely hate the duck tape they use when it’s perished, tidied it up best I could, you can see the gap clearly and I could feel the breeze coming through at this point. just used a filling knife to gently push it in all around the perimeter. I will report back with some results and before I buy any more rod

You'll need to be both G98 and G100 compliant to submit an Export Limitation Scheme Form. https://connections.nationalgrid.co.uk/export-limitation/ So if you haven't got an Export Power Manager which is G100, you may well need to get one. Having not done this myself, I can only go on what the information provided says. Have you spoken to them directly? Its possible they've misunderstood something.

Gypsum in any form is water soluble, I really think this is more about moving builds on quicker than anything to do with them being suited for bathrooms. By the time the moisture has reached the board you’d be in trouble anyway. just come across this, lime plaster on fibre reinforced cement board, for exterior use:https://biolime.com/bl_system/cement-board-exterior/?bl_system_choice=7062&square_feet= Where abouts is the wall located in terms of moisture? Near a water source? You thinking skim and paint? hmm intriguing…apparently you can skim, seal with SBR bond, sand it slightly for a key and then paint on top of that? I have zero idea if that works but if the paint adheres as people say it will, the layers are in the right place to do the job.

Keep seeing this stuff popping up to use in conjunction with PIR, anyone come across it? http://www.gapogroup.com

I’ve never thought of it this way, but I wonder if MR boards aren’t anything to do with using in a bathroom and more to do with being able to install them in a wet building to save time. The fact they need bonding before plaster would agree with that. im thinking along the lines of like chipboard flooring with the peel back coating, another product so you can crack on and ignore other factors. I’m more than likely wrong, but just made me wonder when I read the BG blurb

Yeah on that piece. You could also use the CLS Timber idea, and make a huge modesty block, running full length of unit, screwed to the cross member (or even better, down through the cross member) and then all the way through into the wall with bolts. Unit would still be the weakest component, but you'd have a good job breaking it

How about a modesty block into the top strut, and then a long screw or 2 (depending which way you install it) into the wall?

Whats the need to fix them rock solid? None of mine are screwed to the wall and they've not moved anywhere. Don't forget you will be bolting each one to the next

Yeah almost no one knows about this guidance, ive observed many roofs being constructed over recent years and not one had any tape in sight. Tyvek Supro is a premium brand, but i agree, there is far better out there, its also one of the least breathable of breather membranes.

For a long time now i've known about Liniar's Glazing Flipper, basically a trim which attaches to the middle of the profile with a rubber flipper as the name suggests, which creates a barrier to the outer half (where the frame drainage holes are located) and the inner half, and always thought it was such a brilliant idea, since the drainage holes will allow air to move freely around the 5mm gap all around the glazing, bypassing all of that expensive triple glazing, and thats irrespective of whether the beading fits tightly or not...but of course with anything brilliant, you can never get hold of it. Then when i was looking for something else, joint backer rod (the stuff you use to fill a deep hole to stop you having to use so much caulk) popped up, and i thought now that would certainly do the job, as its flexible, waterproof, cheap and hopefully airtight when compressed (even if its not it should be far better than just an empty gap), so i've bought 10m of 10mm rod just to give it a go, and will report back if its made any difference. I'll put it on a window where i can do one pane and leave the other so its a reasonable comparison.

This may help decipher what you should have got: https://www.labc.co.uk/news/understand-bs-5534-changes-roof-underlay

Always use a dark coloured silicone outdoors, it’ll pick up dirt and dust which looks terrible on white but not so noticeable on darker colours

For me I’d go with rockwool and a breather membrane, not a VCL (assuming this is into a cold roof space), PIR won’t sit nicely against that.

All of my extract pipes and corresponding manifold are as dry as a bone, have been since I installed them nearly 4 years ago

True but think of the money you’ll save!

It will but you can work around it, dot of silicone on the lug track to hold in place, and once you’ve got the face plate screwed it it won’t move anyway. The other thing you could do it shorten the track guides slightly, this will give a longer run and give you the satisfying click ive butchered a few of mine over the years and they’re still where I want them

Snip the lugs off or buy the deeper box version, either should do the trick

As others have mentioned, check how the unit is positioned with a spirit level. Some have profiled polystyrene which allows you to mount level, and some don’t meaning you have to mount off level to allow drainage

Assuming this is in a cold loft, I have my pipes running directly over the joists and then put 200mm wool insulation over the top, in effect burying them

R290 is indeed propane, I read that it’s a super pure version of propane and extremely flammable which is why they don’t use it in car air conditioning

Risk of condensation forming on any uninsulated pipes in a cold loft as the air drawn in will be much colder than ambient in the loft

Our local Lidl got its main wall built with these, went up quick.

I think even uncommissioned that seems way out. you’ve not got a pipe connected up wrong somewhere have you? Double check everything.