willbish

I am in the market for a fan coil unit, it must be ceiling mounted and will be installed in 300mm deep I-joist. These 3 models fit the bill, Daikin FWC06BT Aermec FLCI 32 Biddle CWC010 Does anyone have experience of either of these 3? Im tempted towards the Daikin but it has a condensate pump which I don't need and consider something else to go wrong The Aermec is Italian built and the control options seem unnecessarily complicated Biddle is 40% dearer than the other two but I haven't shopped around. Aermec FLCI.pdf biddle-cwc-brochure-a4-v5.pdf Daikin FWC-BT BF.PDF

Not nearly the abomination I was fearing. Trimmed out a piece of render. God bless thy multitool Cut a slit in the apron flashing Pushed in a piece of leftover of trim Beauty of having 200mm EPS under the render. Banged the trim right in Finally slap a bit of silicone render in the gap behind Currently being storm tested...

Without knowing your airtightness strategy, I would think membrane and tape would be tricky to detail on hollowcore slabs. Take a look at FM330 foam and blowerproof liquid.

I think I'm going to try to get a small soaker in behind the other soakers and bring it out in front of the render. Won't look as crisp as it does now but function over form it must be. @nod roof covering is Tapco slates, chosen for their suitability for low pitch. They were a breeze to lay, zero wastage and unless you're up close most people have no idea they aren't real slates.

Kicking myself as I've got a small leak and looking for ideas to overcome. Water is running down the aluminium flashing and soakers and getting behind the render. It is then presenting inside under the roof terrace. I think the only non destructive option is a decent squirt of exterior sealant between trim and render bead. But I'm reluctant to be ever reliant on a bit of goo for long term watertight integrity. Any great ideas? Or recommendations for best exterior sealant? Cheers

I buried all my off cuts in a small retaining area against the side of the house. Was really time consuming but I thought as I'd paid for the insulation I may as well experience the benefit of it.

As it's a new build your heating demand should be pretty low. You may find all your demand can be satisfied by the UFH on the ground floor. This is the case in my place but I still put UFH on the first floor. Just because I don't like the idea of having to dig out electric heaters for that extreme beast from the east scenario. And I can imagine the moaning from Mrs and kids about me having built them a cold house! I chose aluminium spreader plates because although they don't perform as well as a screed but they are cheaper and easier to install and for a first floor new build you shouldn't need the superior performance.

So true. Police wouldn't even visit my site to investigate. Got a crime reference number though, yay!

Fortunately no damage at all, thanks Nod. Very consider thieves, just took a few power tools that I had left out mid job.

No one on site and two closest neighbors properties also vacant. Surgical in that it must've taken them a decent amount of time and nothing was forced. Moral issue now is whether to buy second hand tools, which fuels the market for stolen goods or cough up for new.

I had thieves in my place on weds night. They came in through a temporary door blank. What you have described is totally inadequate if you are intending to keep people out. My set up was 18mm OSB bolted from the inside. It was a pain in the ass to open and lock each day but I (wrongly) thought it was secure. On the plus side nothing was damaged in the house and my container wasn't touched. If you have a locked door people will assume there are goodies inside. Better to leave it open until you have a proper door and keep tools off site.

Isnt it asking a bit much of the actuators if you only need a few degrees above room temp on the ground floor but something nearer 35° upstairs?

Another thing to consider is if you're floor build up and insulation levels are different on different floors then you will require different flow temperatures for the same output. I was going to do as @ProDavesuggested and have a single large manifold on the first floor, yes it would be cheaper for the hardware, but a single blending valve cannot deliver different temperatures. Plan for two manifolds

Think it's something Daikin teach on their install courses. Probably to try and sell more of their seriously expensive valves https://www.climatecontrolsandspares.co.uk/glycol/daikin-altherma-afvalve1-anti-freeze-valve.html

I've seen anti freeze valves installed instead of using glycol. Apparently glycol reduces the performance of the ashp

My first thought is that sounds like a significant amount of work/hassle for a very minor improvement in performance. Cutting in the PIR is a job you wouldn't be able to finish until all your services are in place. By which time you'll be itching to get the cavities closed and move on, not cutting tiny bits of insulation. I'm not that familiar with timber frame constructions but if you want to increase the insulation wouldn't it be better to put a continuous layer before the service cavity.

Also consider using Upanor Ecoflex insulated pipe. Thermo twin is the type you need. It's definitely not cheap though. I bought an offcut and put under my foundation.

Just looking at this myself There's Polypipe & JG Speedfit which I found both more expensive than Hep2o for my requirements Im still considering Emmeti multiplex and using up all the 16mm MLCP pipe I have left over from 2 floors of UFH. Press fittings no more expensive than Hep, also found someone who'll lend me their press tool

Nicholson do a product for ventilated lead ridges. I think they look really smart and would have gone for it, had I not found a suitable tile. AIRTRAK-VR200 Ventilated Ridge Detail - Slated Roof 25-34degs-Layout1_0.pdf

I purchased a service on ebay which worked out well. Postage wasn't too dear. You can also buy the service kits on ebay if you'd prefer to take it apart yourself and follow a youtube video.

Nope, compacting wouldn't do anything. The type 1 below is fully compacted. As others have said there is no where for this layer to go.

I used limestone chips as it was what had been specified. Bought a 3.0m aluminium length which has come in handy many times since throughout the build. Timber set level on type1, worked beautifully

@dpmiller not really, hot water is a necessity for hygiene.

From a different perspective, is it 'right' to design something into your house that is going to chuck litres of fresh water down the drain everyday the house is occupied for years to come? We are blessed with ample rainfall in this country but droughts are not uncommon.

No reason why you couldn't get it right with just a bull float. Smoothing my slab with the float was the best part of the day. Rest of the team had gone home, just me and my Old man, it was strangely relaxing after the preceding mayhem and nerves. From the video you can see we just did one pass, a second pass would've taken out even more imperfections but wasn't really necessary in my case