willbish

Hi @Jude1234 I am also considering the economics of PV. As others have said, particularly @ProDave if you can spread your PV panels onto different elevations you have a better chance of using all of the generated power. With your I-shaped build you might be fortunate enough to have East South and West facing elevations. I am currently looking at installing 2kWp on my east and west elevation and at a later date installing another South facing array on an outbuilding.

Would anyone know how to alter the Azimuth on this spreadsheet to give figures for windows other than true south?

Great, so I think my plan conforms. Yep as I thought, thanks

Does each soil pipe run need to be vented to atmosphere? Or would a single vent for all pipes entering an inspection chamber suffice? I think I'm going to need 3 different runs meeting at a single inspection chamber and then flowing on to our shared septic tank as pictured. The constraints of the site and the proximity to the road mean that no soil pipe can run around the side of the property. Really hoping I can do without an external stack or a roof penetration. Drainage plan2.pdf

Of course, that makes a lot more sense! Any advantages other than cost and the reduced potential for noise/creaky spreaders to this method?

How did this arrangement work for you? Do you have any photos? I can't imagine how you cut the ply to easily fit in between the webs.

@dpmiller one less now @cpd think you will have yours installed before me!

@Cpd Did you return the heat pump as I notice the item has been relisted?

Many posts on this forum detail planning difficulties and hurdles that I have read and was really expecting to navigate. On Friday we were very fortunate to be granted full planning permission for the demolition and rebuild of our stone semi detached cottage. I was expecting issues with the parking, allocating only two spaces for a 4 bed home falls short of local guidelines but this was somehow waved through "Although on-site parking provision will fall below the standards set out in the North Somerset Parking Standards SPD, the highway conditions in the area are such that there will be no adverse impact on highway safety as a result of approving this proposal." Pre-planning advise recommended amendments to improve character and appearance. Apart from getting to a professional to redraw the plans (my sketchup models didn't look the part) we didn't change anything significant. Somehow the roof terrace has been granted. Finally the house has been designed to have a one bed self contained annexe attached which, again, I thought would meet opposition. So, surprisingly we are now good to proceed on to the next stage with no prohibitive conditions. Perhaps those planners wanted their desks cleared for Christmas! All in all the planning process has been straight forward, I feel like one of the 'lucky ones' right now. I would recommend submitting plans that fit what you want from your property, rather than what you think the planners/neighbours want.

TGG supply a cover that supposedly allows unimpeded airflow. This would help keep the rain off and could reduce the humidity slightly. It could also allow the heat pump to be orientated back facing out and expose the evaporator to any warmth from the sun without looking it totally odd. Covers_APN.PDF

Thanks for that info. What frustrated me yesterday was the gentleman I spoke to on the phone told me a passive raft slab was too expensive for my build. He told me that, after asking very precisely, what my total budget was. His dismissive attitude has just strengthened my resolve!

Was quoted today £17,700 for a passive slab ~90m2. Minimal ground-works, no drainage, no ufh. £200m2 is more than I was expecting. How does this compare with what others have paid? Appreciate it may be difficult to separate slab costs from other ground-works and drainage. Thanks

I did a few calcs recently regarding RWH at it wasn't great. Based on this 3000L system Bristol Water charge for supply 2017: £1.1627 per m3 Wessex water charge for sewerage 2017: £1.17966 per m3 (£1.120 Sewerage charged on 95% of supply) Water costs £2.2827 per m3 To install 3000L Rain water harvesting system: £3,100 Therefore need to use 1358m3 from RWH system before begin cost saving Max rain collection due to roof size, geographical location per year: 43.68m3 (-20% for loss) Usage of washing machine / toilet / outside estimated per year: 64.970m3 1358/43.68 = 31 years Even if I did a DIY system costing £1000 that would be a 10year pay back. I cant justify it especially for my site where there is a reservoir less than 2 miles down the hill!

The new neighbours don't have any grand vision to remodel their side and have already started patching bits up. Nice idea, all for radical ideas, bit think this will compromise the internal living space of our small cottage too much. The current plans have already extended the footprint as far as possible in all directions. There is a chimney breast in the party wall extending out 350mm plus the 6" gap plus new wall thickness ~400mm, over the depth of the property we'll be losing 6m2 internal footprint from the 86m2 we currently have. Any thoughts on the EPS foundation blocks up against the party wall? I cant find any examples of it being done previously but cant see why not

Yes retaining the facade needs to be an explicit condition of the planning permission. Perhaps I could take the new build designation topic to another thread. It may well come to that! Rebuilding with stone is pricey in terms of labour, would lose the deep window reveals and would look 'false'.

I thought someone may ask that... Well the project began as a renovation, and with each turn more of the original building has had to be replaced or altered beyond recognition. I’d like to keep the front facade so we can have the internal stone walls on show and deep window seats. So purely aesthetic reasons. Yes regarding the VAT I’ve read closely what constitutes a new build, as far as I can see, it can be a new build if the party wall and one facade only remains.

I would like a raft on eps foundation for all the thermal performance reasons. Our semi detached cottage will be demolished (planning permission permitting) leaving the front facade only and of course the party wall. Can anyone foresee any problems with this scenario? Can the same perimeter insulation blocks be used internally against the party and front wall? There will be a significant thermal bridge at these walls (even though the front wall will have EWI) is a passive slab even worth the expense...

I found the Simpson Strongtie workbench kit great. So quick, simple and guaranteed strong joints. Used another kit recently for a set of fitted adult friendly bunk beds in a ski lodge.

Thanks, does that include their electronic latches too? So Internorm use winkhaus, and winkhaus only manufacture electronic latches without rollers... I’ve contacted Internorm distributors, awaiting their response. Does anybody on the forum have timber entrance doors without rollers?

Thanks for your input gents, I value your suggestions. Yeh you’re right. I’ve never been one for contents insurance but compromising security is not my intention. Time for a rethink Have you seen this JSHarris? Although your hurdles to retrofit would probably still exist even with this lock. This product is not for sale in the UK yet, its predecessor the AV2 is and I think that is what I am going to go for. As far as I am aware the 3 latches will hold the door against the seals. I have been looking for a product that combines latches and rollers but these are marketed at uPVC doors which are notorious for warping. The rollers do help seal the door to the frame but I understand this is not necessary with a timber door. The idea is to compress the seals not crush them! I’ve seen composite frames with insulation inside. I think there is only so far I can go with a timber frame. The door will be installed within the EWI layer and majority of frame will have some insulation in front. See detail attached. I am concerned about thermal bridging at the sill, will be having a head scratch in the coming days on how best to minimise.

I appreciate it’s an unusual ask for most joiners but I think achieving a decent level of air tightness is possible on a one off piece. I’m envisaging double rebate with three weather seals. Hopefully two of these seals can be continuous, one may be incomplete to facilitate the hinges. Obviously no protrusions through the door like mortise locks or letter boxes! The locking arrangement will be an electronic strike release only. I’m sure there’s a joiner out there that’s done something like this before...

Good evening, Could anybody recommend a joiner capable of building a bespoke passive front door and frame. Today I met a local, well recommended joiner who I have no doubt is very capable but he has never built a piece to these requirements before. I’d like the front door to be a statement piece and have a design but do not want to compromise on air tightness and thermal performance standards too much. My current feeling is I may be better with someone not so local who has previous experience in this area. First sketch of the design attached front door sketch.pdf

I've found this thread to very useful. Just wondering @Barney12 did you go with your setup as specified at the start of this thread? And is the Sunamp acting as a buffer for your UFH too?

Thanks @ProDave & @MikeSharp01 Forgot to attach current elevations and floorplans Greentrees Plans 4.pdf

Good evening all, I’ve been lurking around this forum for a while digesting all the great information that exists. There really are some knowledgeable and eloquent people posting here, a refreshing change to some other sites! My project is slowly getting started and I will endeavour to keep a blog or at least a photo diary of the progress. The property is a stone semi detached cottage from around 1850. Twice extended early 1900’s located on the outskirts of Dundry village, 4 miles south of Bristol city centre. House has been empty for 6 years and is need of deep renovation. Extension number 1 at the rear of the building increased the footprint by nearly 100% and added two additional rooms upstairs but with pitched ceilings and head height of only 1.0m at the extreme. Extension 2 was a barn joining the side of the house. Structurally unsound this has already been demolished. Attached elevations and floor plans are almost ready to be submitted for PP. The finished property will be 3 bed house with roof terrace taking in the amazing views. Plus 1 bed self contained annexe. The property is not listed or in a conservation area, however it is greenbelt land. Lesser horseshoe bats have occupied the roofspace and although almost completely gone the property is regarded as a roost and we will be requiring a licence from Natural England prior to any roof works take place. Like many of you I have an amateur interest in low energy homes and as this is my second fixer upper I will be doing it ‘properly’ and much more thoroughly this time. (Last time was a terrace house, I was 5 years younger with less knowledge, a tight budget and limited time) As there is opportunity for such a deep renovation I have considered working towards EnerPhit standards but I feel that is too large a step. More realistically and attainable would be AECB Silver certification. The only parts of the existing building to be kept are the 3 external stone walls and possibly first floor joists to the front of the house. (Perhaps I should have bought a plot!) Wishlist, in no particular order EWI Woodfibre board such as Warmshell to existing walls Windows –Aluclad sash. Fixed sliders where possible Aerated glass foam for ground floor insulation in existing house Warm roof construction. Although provision has to be made for letterbox bat access into loft space so loft insulation will also be necessary ICF for new extension. Limited on wall thickness due to proximity of road. MHRV – Situated in loft space unfortunately ASHP – For DWH and UFH. Hopefully modelling will confirm space heating unnecessary upstairs. However if there is any doubt provisions will be made! Clay plaster used internally including tadelakt in main bathroom Loxone home automation for controlling lighting, ufh thermostats, access security and audio PV array on ESE roof Rainwater harvesting on WNW rear roof Any initial thoughts, pointers very much appreciated.