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Did anyone else fall for the new series called Bland Designs 😆 https://www.instagram.com/p/CbzJ4COIFVD/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= I thought the concept of stripping away the architectural nonsense and showing the real nuts and bolts of self building would be great.

Isoquick mentions earthing the slab in their tech spec. First electrician I engaged thought it was pointless but told me to fix an earth rod to the rebar coming up in the plant room. Second electrician saw the rod and cut it off

So true When you used the Somfy Movelite WT for the curtains how were the limits controlled?

Hi @Dan F Thanks for your recommendation. Im looking for some 240v blind motors to go with the Lonxone relay. A Somfy merchant has told me I must have the Somfy tacoma hub "which will be needed to programme the limit on each motor" Is this correct? Im sure its not but don't want to call him out. Is the Loxone relay capable of shutting off the motor when the blind is fully open/closed, is this just a set time parameter?

I used a length of Uponor twin insulated pipe. Chuck in another duct or two for power and coms cables to the ASHP https://www.underfloorstore.co.uk/product/uponor-ecoflex-thermo-twin-pre-insulated-pipe

Don't forget the ceiling, you may need pipework running across the ceiling before heading out to different areas of the building. I needed my plant room walls finishing whilst the exterior render guy was on site. On a rainy morning he put on a base coat and finished with acrylic thin coat. Painted ply ceiling and floor the same finish as the rest of the ground floor.

Utilita also do prepayment electricity with no standing charge. I checked with them today and after the April 1st price cap is raised, the tariff will remain. Aside from the first 2kWh of expensive electricity a day, I think it might be the best deal around at the moment.

Seems to me to be even more wasteful if you run the hot tap, wash hands in cold water and then by the time the hot reaches the outlet it is shut off and large dead leg left to go cold

Such a system is best combined with a building management system. My circulation pump will be controlled by Loxone. It will only run for X seconds, the length of time it takes hot water to reach furthest point. Activated by presence detectors and then pump will only run max Y times per hour. Thinking 2 or 3 times.

You might even need a crane, but certainly a hoist or another safe way of getting the GRP placed on top.

Is there a standard distance between screw holes for adjacent backboxes? Picture to illustrate, this triple has 25mm between centre of the screw holes. A metal equivalent has nearer 27mm. Is there a standard? Does it depend on what faceplates you chose? I have a long run of backboxes in the study and it would be nice to get them all snug next to each other.

Joiner has had the defects highlighted to him. I've raised the idea of a return and refund. Before asking for that I feel obliged to allow him the chance to repair/replace. I've asked that he try to do this within 21 days. Think that seems reasonable. He has responded that he will be back next week to "sort it out". I don't have much faith that repairs are possible and I think he may be wasting his time, polishing a turd springs to mind. However I shall leave him to it and review in 3 weeks.

Appreciate all your responses and thoughts. It was made by a joiner, a one man band, who unfortunately came well recommended. His usual work is kitchens and cabinetry. This is the approach I am favouring but I am still unsure of what outcome I want. So reluctant to engage until I know. It was/is an expensive door. If I accept a 25% or 50% discount Im not sure that is going to satisfy. I would much prefer a defect free door, even at an increased cost (have been back looking at UrbanFront website again!) However at this stage of the build, 4 years in, I'm ground down, I need to get it finished pronto. Finding the motivation to go back to the drawing board, quotes, design, lead times, is going to be tough when my focus is on getting the decorating started.

14. Bigger mistake plugged? 15. Hinge not recessed far enough into door 16. Wafer thin amount of wood material, how long will that last? 17. Yep splitting already 18. Quality 19. 20. Looks alrite if you squint hard enough.

Looking for some opinions please on how to find an amicable solution to the poor quality of this bespoke front door I have had made. I don't think there is any doubt that the joinery is below par. See pictures below. I'm unsure how best to move forward and find a resolution that works for both parties. I am tempted to reject the door and ask for a full refund. I don't think any repairs or bodges and able to bring the door up to an acceptable standard. I may be wrong. Maybe my standards are too high? I've paid 90% for the joinery and have received the invoice for the final 10% The issue with a full refund is three fold. -The frame has been fitted prior to rendering. Removing would require making good of the external render. Would the joiner be liable for this cost? Yes. Would I successfully get the money for it though? - If I received a full refund I would most likely commission another joiner to make a similar door. I haven't seen anything off the shelf (yet) that compares. Looking at 6months plus for design, manufacture & fitting - Move in date is approaching. A secure temporary door will be necessary. Time, cost and general buggery required. So I guess I need to decide whether incurring the above hassle is a better course of action than accepting and living with the defects. Essentially the door works as designed, just about, for now. But Im pretty sure I can argue that it doesn't meet 'reasonable expectations' 50mm Celotex sandwiched inside. Triple glazed sealed unit. Double rebate with continuous twin seals and electronic lock (untested). So here's the pictures of the poor joinery. I think as soon as the door moves even a millimetre it will not close, it is already touching the frame. The tolerances are too tight. What will it be like in a couple years. 1. Door hits lower keep. Simonswork Tectus 3D hinges are already adjusted as far as they can go. 2. Door touching frame as it closes. Keep with Ten-F function to be ordered 3. Something protruding through internal face. 4. Random screw hole on internal face 5. 2mm gap in joint 6. Spacer in sealed unit higher than timber 7. Random machine marks, of which there are many 8. B*stardisation of door to accept lip of keep 9. Machining damage to lock and door 10. Top of door, butchery 11. 2mm gap that moves when squeezed 12. More quality joinery at the bottom of the door 13. Mistakes plugged?

Do Nudura specify a swellable water bar at the junction? I was told this was essential

I've not spent anytime comparing prices for blinds yet, so i'd be interested to hear what you choose. Do you mean you've brought a Loxone tree cable to the blind? Not sure why you'd need that but it's all a bit over my head.

In the process of doing it... Blindspace header boxes and side channels are in. Installer has spec'd 5 core flex to each blind, Loxone Relay Extension will do the work in the cabinet. Only detail on blinds I've been told so far is chose ones with 240v motors.

Im after a boiling water tap where the tank sits behind the plinth. We have butler/belfast sink and I want to reduce the amount of gubbins in the small cupboard under the sink So far Ive only found the Franke Minerva does anyone know of any others? There was the Itho but that has been discontinued. I thought it was rebadged as the Grohe Red but the Itho website mentions Franke

Yes you may be right. Cuppa tea before/after washing up ? Sounds like someone has really put the frighteners on you @Adsibob I was under the impression that water softened with salt contains no more sodium than water from naturally soft areas. There's also significantly more sodium (several 100%) in cows milk than softened water. Also isn't the link between hypotension and sodium somewhat tenuous anyway? Pretty sure this topic was done in depth previously and other members, after conducting their own research, chose to use softened water at their main drinking tap.

I'm wondering if there is any reason why I shouldn't feed the tank for the boiling water tap with hot water? My hot water is from a Sunamp and I'm expecting to have a surplus for many months of the year with diverted excess PV generation. When the sun isn't shining the Sunamp will be charged with 1:1 electrical resistance heating element, which is the same as the small boiling water tank. It seems to me like using hot water to fill the boiling water tank could save me some energy. The buts .. Replacing one or two cups of boiling water drawn off will not clear the dead leg in the hot water pipe run, unless hot water has recently been used at the kitchen tap. This could negate a fair amount of the savings. Are there any other reasons why I shouldn't plumb this way? The hot water is softened but I don't consider drinking softened water an issue. We haven't chosen a boiling water tap yet, on some that I've looked at the tank seems to be fed from the tap so no option to hot fill. Is this the case with many brands?

I used Logix. On reflection very happy with the resul and glad I chose EPS version over woodcrete. @IanMcP if you google search "site:buildhub.org.uk logix" you will find plenty of info, where ive written about my experiences.

EPS, as looks like that section needs insulating

The building needs to be empty for two years to qualify, then the VAT can be reduced to 5% https://www.gov.uk/guidance/buildings-and-construction-vat-notice-708#section8

I dont really understand. If your builder is experienced with ICF he should know the efficiencies that ICF can bring. How much cheaper does he think block and brick will be? Or are you reducing the size of the build as well as changing the build method? Do a quick search on the forum for bricklayers. You will read stories of teams disappearing to other jobs for better money and not returning