gaz_moose

my guess would be that you fix them with brackets, id probably use compriband around the sides, then i would silicone them with soudal lmn on the outside.

tbh you should be able to get a decent price for it on facebook marketplace. i just sold a few sheets of 100mm celotex for £2 less than what i paid for them new.

just butt joint the corners then run a bead of silicone down them. corners not being 90 degree's is not really a problem, if the walls are wibbly wobbly i would probably just fit new walls. a pair window fitters suction handles make the job way easier if your panels are big.

ive fitted the fibo ones, i lined the walls with green plasterboard then stuck the panels on with stixall and used down conning 785+ between the tong and grooves. you can do corners with the corner trims but they look awful so just plan your way of doing it. i did 3 wall around a bath. idid the long side of the bath first then the rest. you can cut them will a skill saw or a jig saw easy enough. but put tape on the faces. replasterbarding the walls means ypu can get them nice and level so you dont have awkward corners.

what wall panel are they fitting? as some of it is rubbish

id probably put some soffit vents in the top of opposing walls. get some with 1mm insect mesh already fitted or glue some on the back.

foam it, then trim it, then silicone it. how are they actually fitted in? if you open the window sashes are there big screws going through the frames? Window Sill | Window Board | Eurocell

i think i know the stuff you mean, it usually has a coloured fleck so its not completely black. they had that in a gym i used to go to and in the summer it expanded and left load of big bubbles to trip over. my chain of thoughts is that these would be less likely to curl up at the corners if the clipped together but i can see it being a pain to fit if the manufacturing tolerances are on the slack side. they say to just slap it down over whatever is underneath with no gluing required. when you say you glued it do you mean all of it or just the edges like fitting linoleum flooring? or like you were sticking down a rubber roof never to come off again.

I want to put some rubber flooring down in a room that im doing and i didn't really want horse matts beacause i don't like the grooves/ dimple finish. Ive seen that a few folk on here have been lavish enough to build a gym room so thought I would ask what flooring they went with and if they would choose it again. ive seen this interlocking stuff which seems a better idea than the usual jigsaw puzzle stuff. but im wondering if its a pig of a job to fit. Rubber Gym Floor Tiles | 2 Mat Pack of Heavy Duty 14mm Interlocking 900 x 900mm | eBay

id just use box profile sheet, painting the whole thing in some kind of sealer sounds like a massive amount of work. sounds like it wont be your problem in 3 years. sometimes box sheeting and the insulated stuff is cheaper if you get a rubbish colour.

sounds like something has either snapped off or wore out. do they look like they come apart? some nuts and some threaded rod should get you back in the game.

looks like the external sill is now built into the walls, which makes it interesting as the sill is usually screwed into the bottom of the frame (from the bottom). open a window and look to see if they have screwed through the sides of the frames into the walls when fitting them, if not then they have probably been fitted with straps that will be buried under the plaster. looks like they have fitted trim up the sides of the frame on the outside, so hopefully it is a bit undersize which will give you some wiggle room getting it out and the render is stuck to the trim and not the frame, although the trim will be superglued to the frame. externally glazed too just to add to the fun. probably just been foamed in LOL. a multi tool will cut through the frames. i think my plan of attack would be to cut the plasterboard off the top and one of the sides about 2" away from the corner bead then about 2" away from the frame on the other side. measure the size of window needed aiming for a looser fit than normal 😆. id be tempted to just cut the old sill out with a multitool and make the 'horns' of the new sill slightly bigger to cover over what's been buried in the EWI. then just screw and foam the new one in.

i used my evolution circular saw with the multipurpose blades as my table saw is only a DIY jobbie so hasn't the width capacity. the circular saw only cut about half the depth, but this gives a good guide for a handsaw so it wont cut on the piss. i found my bacho prizecut saw worked the best. i usually use it for upvc stuff.

the coloured ones are not usually painted they are just thick solid plastic sheets stuck over the inside material, the cheap ones are foam filled and the expensive ones are wood inside. then you get metal ones which are handy if you sell drugs. if you go looking in the showroom look at the bottom of the door to see if you can see the wood where they have just cut the slab to height. coloured frames are foil wrapped not the door itself. ive seen some of the lesser ones with mushrooms growing out them where water has got inside. mine is prostitute red and expands and sticks in the sunlight. don't buy an open outwards as they are wild when its windy and you bash all the delivery drivers. mine is just from Eurocell and was about £650 pre covid.

ive also a load of 100mm to cut so your suggestion made me wonder if i can use my track saw.

what blade do you use in your circular saw when cutting the stuff?

my whole housing estate is made from them its wild. loads are bent like bananas and loads are chipped but they obviously just laid them anyway and that was 40 years ago.

low modulus silicone suitable for glazing. like soudal lmn. then some caulk round the inside.

can you not just buy another 2 and lie them ontop.

id say the locking blocks need adjusting or the glass is heel and toe'd wrong. use a ruler/square to see if the sash is square. if its not take the glass out and fit it better by redoing the plastic packers.

is it actually glued down?

force everyone into buying electric cars then double the price of electric. seems a common tactic, ween you onto their product then shaft you on the price when your addicted.

a lintel is the load bearing beam above a window or door.

ive got some of the soffit ventilators ready to be fitted, but was looking too see if a company did ready made flashing trims. i did look on the glide vale website etc.. but couldn't see owt.

150mm masonry screws. 4 per side. expanding foam the gaps (remembering that it expands so dont go wild with it) then a low modulus silicone sealant. if you have a sill to attach to the bottom of the door frame then screw it on from underneath first. put a line of silicone along the back edge and side of the top of the sill first. bed the door frame bottom on a bed of silicone too once you have done a trial dry fit.