Makeitstop

Yes, I suppose it is, but at the same time, the customer is entitled to request any element of a build is as it should be, and should not really be having to go around after the "professionals" doing remedial jobs. At the end of it all, no matter how it's viewed, this is arguably the most valuable asset anyone owns, and if someone is going to the enormous aggro of building their own home, they are well within their rights to want it done "as it should be done". I'd sort these gaps myself yes, but I'd let the builder know I was going to do that. I'd also let him know I expect critical elements of the work to be done well, and by done well, I mean AS IT REALLY OUGHT TO BE, and not as most customers may accept it being. To add.... as I hadn't read the last few posts... Yes, BCO is a good shout, as is a discussion with Kingspan technical. You'll know where you are then for sure.

Have to admit, I'm unsure of what the general rh is in passive houses with controlled ventilation, but to my mind, 60%+ rh sounds fairly high. I only refer to my knowledge of good humidity control of the timbers I use for my work, which cover a range of some of the most valuable timber on the planet. If I see the environment getting to 60%, then I know it isnt good for it. I'd expect a range of 35%-50% in a centrally heated home. Perhaps that's the issue, but as I said, I'm not up to speed on such a property.

I did wonder about the walls and thought that an alternative to the pir may be a smarter choice, and this is why I posted this up. My only concern is... what is there that competes in terms of efficiency, and, is there any viable option. Same applies to the floor, as I have the option of adjusting depth there, as nothing is down yet, apart from piling, so could in theory get more insulation in by ensuring the rc beam is set lower, or below damp blockwork allows for it. The existing house is simple brick / block construction and is approx 6/7 years old. The heating is gas c/h, so the system will be extended to serve the additional area.

Hi all, Just looking to line things up for a kitchen extension, and want to get some views on insulation choices. So far, the buildups look like those set out below, but I'm open to adjusting to whatever, should smarter choices be possible and the clear way to go. Structure is simple brick / block construction with 340mm cavity walls. Floor is block and beam, off rc beam sat on piling. Roof is warm flat. I guess there is scope to adjust from what I've got here, so please feel free to share any thoughts on what and why. Wall buildup…. U-value 0.21W/m2k 12.5mm PB 100mm Celcon high strength Block 90mm Kingspan kooltherm K108 50mm cavity Facing brick to match existing. --------------------------------------------------------- Floor buildup…. U-value 0.18W/m2k 65mm screed PE sheet separating layer 100mm Kingspan kooltherm K103 board Visqueen gas membrane / similar Beam and block ------------------------------------------------------------ Roof buildup….. U-value 0.15 W/m2k GRP 18mm ext ply Min 180mm kingspan thermaroof Tyvek VPL 18mm ext ply / firring with fall to 1:40 47 X 220 Rafters @ Max 400mm centres 12mm pb.

Blimey, £90 for a socket cover plate

No, I think it's better left alone and youd be wise to pass on doing what you've considered.

Is it just me, or does anyone else smell lath below that cracking.

If this wasn't so potentially serious, I'd be laughing more than I am currently at this thread. Look, get another plasterer in (or call a few if need be) and ask what their thoughts on this clown are. My guess is that they'll think you're taking the pi55, but ask anyhow. That will surely let you know what you're dealing with here. I have never even heard of this being done before. Insanity.

I have to admit, I admire the ethos and consideration behind Gus Potters post above and don't disagree with it entirely. I do think that finding an amicable solution is the best way ahead, and, that if that means adopting an "excessively" generous attitude, then so be it. It would be smart to "try" to find the path of least resistance on this I think. Having said that, sometimes the path of least resistance may mean making the wrong choice, perhaps in order to appease others or shortcut your way to resolution. By that token, it can be a tricky path to tread. It's impossible for us to know exactly what the reality of the situation is, but for me, there's little point in trying to second guess or psycho analyse your neighbours thinking on this. You just have to take it as you see it and deal with that. For all you know, they could be the kind of person that jumps to "legal advice" at the slightest provocation, or, they may have a valid point and feel genuinely aggrieved at what has appeared on ground that was clear prior to your arrival. No matter what, the simple answer is to treat it as above. It will deal with it. And yes, it is 100% Japanese knotweed.

£500?....... I'd not offer a tenner. No need at all to be making any cash offers, as that only looks like admission of liability. Get it treated as above as a goodwill gesture at the very most.

Yes, exactly. What joe said It's fairly easily treated yourself. As long as you hit it at the right time of year, with decent product and keep that up for a few years, there's no need to engage "specialists" that'll charge you crazy money. Furthermore, if it's not within a few metres of actual buildings, then the threat is minimal anyhow, so you have plenty of time to sort it. Honestly, it's not difficult to eradicate yourself.

That does sound ultra pricey tbf. Have to admit, I was kind of curious to know what this type of thing costs in total. I'm not sure I'd feel there was a benefit in a single panel of glass at the size above, which is why..... I am looking at using Velux Modular skylights in a kitchen extension due to begin (relatively) shortly. I like the idea of the bank of glass at approx 3 metres wide and approx 1.2 metres or so deep, and also like the option of having an electric controlled vent for airflow when required. The separating bars on these is very slim and to my mind, doesn't really spoil the aesthetic at all. I can't remotely imagine trying to install this thing at 170kg. Yikes...

I would say that t&g ply is more likely to squeak than square edged, because there's a larger area in contact with the neighbouring piece. I would personally lay the ply but with a fractional gap of maybe a mil or so.

I would deffo go this route too. With timber products, it's not simply a question of heat per se, but more about what moisture the product holds prior to installation, and, what the relative humidity is going to be once its in service. In the main, a kitchen is likely to be subject to more than adequate moisture to never get below that 6 - 8% moisture content within the boards. However, when you introduce direct heat to it, and especially over a prolonged period of time, "almost any" excess moisutre in those boards WILL be driven off, which is likely to result in at least some dimensional change, however slight. The problem you have there is that with flooring, it's such a close fitting product, that you want to keep it that way to look and perform at its best. So, maybe a barrier to stop it becoming "quite" so warm is a good idea. Of course, engineered flooring is a very different beast to solid timber, and is generally far more stable. Having said that, some of that stability is still dependant on levels of moisture within it prior to putting it into service, and especially the RH it's exposed to once it's in service doing its job.

Glad it worked out well. It is worth keeping in mind though, that 180g is fairly coarse, and would not be the grade used to finish the doors when they were manufactured. 180 is a grade used more as an intermediate grit between reduction and final finish grades, so is arguably more aggressive than would be required. As long as you had a good result, that's what matters.

Sealing a garage floor is not a bad idea. It'll reduce dust and can also provide a level of priming for floor paint. Externally though, and on concrete pavers, I'd say its largely a waste of time and money and may be one of those jobs you wish you hadn't started.

Need to know whether its concrete, porcelain or real stone. Sealer isnt necessary on all, and in fact, isnt actually "necessary" on anything. No matter how well sealed if you do decide to go that route, it'll always wear, and as such, will require maintenance if anything is applied.

I'd be concerned that the finished levels are going to be circa 50mm below dpc. If they've had scope to prep the ground levels on this job from the off, then that to me would tell me I need to watch what they're doing. I would personally be calling other pavers / landscapers to call and check what's going on, and would be more than happy to pay for their time in doing so. Of course, it needs to be someone "very" good at what they do, and not some cowboy fool that claims to know. 50mm below?.... Don't like it.

Sorry, 300 to 400mm sand?....... you must mean 30 to 40mm surely. If the former, that's 12 to 16 inches of sand. Fine for sand castles, not so cool under a patio...? Haha. I cant see for the life of me why anyone would use any sand layer over the sub base. Once type 1 is worked to levels and compacted down, it's perfect for taking a mortar bed. Once laid, it would be well tricky to pull stones up, as they'd be solidly bonded to sub base, which itself is damn hard to lift once tight. To my thinking, if you've got a sand layer sat on top of sub base, a strong bar wedged under a sandstoned slab could lift the slab up off the sand layer with the mortar attached firmly to the back of it still. It just sounds odd.

Surely, the point of mortar straight onto type 1, is to enable a bond into the very solid surface that the compacted type 1 offers. No matter how much you whack sand down, even sharp sand, it's not going to be as tight as type 1. I'd be concerned that the mortar bed will simply sit on a surface that isn't properly bound to the sub base.

If it were on my own doors, I'd be starting with nothing coarser than 240g max, and in fact, probably 400g. In fact, a good quality 400 wet / dry should remove pencil, no bother at all. Using anything coarse like 180g, especially with any force, will take more than required off. Be careful Also, when oil finishing any hardwood, you'll achieve a nicer feel and finish by miles using a max of 320-400g abrasive. Use a small dead flat block, wrap abrasive around it and use that.

Sealed...???

The idea of using EU based suppliers is (or was) great prior to Brexit. Now it's a ballache. Regarding making "custom" for ikea though, I can't see any issue with it, as it's using such a workable material, being either timber or wood panels. You'll only need to swap out fittings I'd imagine.

Wool blend (80% wol & 20% nylon) are most durable in natural mix products. Pure wool feels great, not quite as wear resistant. Both not great for spills and stains. Loop pile tends to crush flat after a period of time and many dont like the look it has then. Twist pile (not deep like saxonys) is durable, especially 10th gauge (many are 8th gauge) Polypropylene is often cheaper, and is also often bleach (diluted) cleanable. Tends to crush flat if deep pile. Nylon (polyamide) more resistant to crushing, and is also cleanable. Bottom line is they all have their pros and cons.

Jeepers, that sounds pricey to me. I'd go joiner route any day. specify what you are looking to achieve and ask for quotes. Only use people who you know have been recommended, on facebook groups or suchlike and ask to see images of their work. Only pay a deposit up front, and only pay balance if you're happy. For £3.2K I'd be wanting more than anything made from mdf.