Barney12

Mine is 28m2 and I'm already convinced it's too small. Is there such a thing as "too big" for a man cave?

Nice work. Well done. P.S. Fizzy dry white wine. Yuk!!

Daily! Actually several times a day at the moment. It took our window company 7 (yes SEVEN) attempts to send through a post survey contract that was accurate. They have though apologised and conceded it hasn't been their "finest hour".

Exactly my understanding! Where dos this paranoia over CDM2015 originate? Is it a clause in Self Build Insurance Policies somewhere? Or is it people reading and self interpreting the guidance?

Ditto! They really are incredibly simple to service. Genuine service parts kits can be found on eBay for not a lot. Brake cleaner is all that's needed and a lint free rag. Just don't use WD40 or the like as they'll leave a residue.

The Tacwise ones have worked fine for me in my IM350 http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p81770?table=no

I've just started looking at these. There is a huge range of options and prices. I've seen Impey mentioned here before but are they really worth the almost double price tag? I could see more need for quality/rigidity on a timber floor but on to concrete it's not got to do much? The last two wet rooms I did I made my own formers but frankly I don't have the time.

Are you sure he didn't just mean 140mm blocks? http://www.carvers.co.uk/products/CONCRETE-BLOCK-SOLID-STANDARD-140MM-7N-48-PER-PACK-12-PER-LAYER/P104304

Out of interest what's the thickness of the product?

So are you saying you're even taking 32/40/50mm wastes outside through the nearest wall? If yes how are you then interfacing them to the 110mm soil pipe once outside? Or are you taking a 110mm stub to every point? (P.S. I like your logic though ref "faff")

Its an interesting point. I did think that but some some reason I have this thought that services should always run round the outside of a room. What that thought is based on though I'm not entirely sure

I’m having a real brain fog moment with the layout of our ground floor WC/Shower.The wastes are going to have to be in the slab so I’ll need to create a channel former so I can run the wastes. I’n my rather crude drawing below I’ve got a section of soil pipe that runs underground and then two separate wastes (50mm for the shower and 40mm for the basin) going to that stub (which will be below the slab level). Or could I get away with extending the 50mm and 40mm wastes to just the one stack used by the toilet. The run would be circa 3.5m for the sink. All this is going to be slab level so will be inaccessible so I want it to be right. Input hugely appreciated.

Sorry im not following you? I accept your point re the sizes of replacement panels but what do you mean by watertight? The GSE system is very good and follows almost an identical flashing system to a velux roof window.

"Our Father in heaven, hallowed be your name. Your kingdom come, your bathroom will be done, on earth as it is in heaven. Give us this day our daily thread update, and forgive us our threats, as we also have given up it being better. And lead us not into Toolstation, but deliver us from evilbay." My Methodist lay preaching mother may see me flogged for that Pass the wine.

You don't need poems! Arguably the odd verse from a few hymns or the odd prayer could help as frankly only the Lord himself might help get that bathroom finished.

That doesn't seem right to me. The panels simply sit in the roof trays, a few clamps to unbolt and they're out. Arguably they are as simple to remove and replace than an "on" roof system. Plus you don't get the very widely reported issues of leaks due to penetrations in the roof tiles/slates caused by on roof systems.

Thanks for the info. Hopefully I'll get to label the wall before the guys get to the battening.

A Google found this page: http://www.microgenerationcertification.org/about-us/news-and-events/140-mcs-certificates-consumers-rhi it is of course out of date but it does raise a genuine scenario "Your installer goes bust before they've completed the registration". Considering the number of business failures of late in the renewables sector you could imagine it must happen.

We've got a couple of places where we're having built in wardrobes. In one area the house design is such that the depth of the alcove which will contain the wardrobe is only 570mm which after doors is likely to reduce down to 540-550mm of internal depth. This is slightly smaller than the recommended 600mm depth for a wardrobe (Having said that we have a couple of free standing wardrobes that only have an internal depth of 550mm and a coat-hanger is 400mm wide, so perhaps not a huge issue?). Anyway it got my mind thinking about the 38mm service cavity in the back wall of this alcove. At the moment I don't envisage any services at this point so this is feeling like wasted space which I could recover for the wardrobe. However, does it also act as a ventilation gap (MBC Timber Frame) or provide other benefits (such as aiding airtightness of the frame)? The last line also leads to a further question. "If you place a screw into an airtight board do you compromise its airtightness?". I accept it might to an extent but surely its by a tiny level? Or even nil if a squirt of silicone was applied to the screw thread? Typical wall build up for info:

Its normally the cable that causes issues with charging on Apple devices. Is it a generic one? Our iPads and iPhones charge fine from generic USB psu's. Weve got a couple of these which work well: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-Charger-PowerPort-Charging-Multi-Port/dp/B00VTI8K9K/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491740345&sr=1-6&keywords=anker+charger

Ah of course. Completely forgot about that bit

Is that MBC done and dusted then?

We bought our PV array for the outbuildings from Wagner Renewables http://wagnersolarshop.com/ on recommendation from someone on ebuild. They put together a complete kit, even down to the labels to make the whole thing compliant. At the time they were very competitive price wise (after a haggle).

Thanks. I assume it's best practice to have the ducts fairly vertical through the EPS to minimise insulation loss?

I've just been pondering my slab insertions and thinking about which services I need to bring into the slab. We made the mistake when doing the garage of making the radius of the ducting too tight and then had an absolute nightmare of a job getting the water pipe and SWA cable in. So what's the collective opinion on a perfect radius for a 60mm duct coming into the slab? i was even thinking of making a really simple 'jig' out of ply which would ensure all the ducts are correct in terms of radius and are supported during the pour. Would take minutes to make and potentially save lots of stress!! Overthinking? Almost certainly!