Barney12

Yep and it works fantastically. Zero risk of it toppling out with a very simple clamp bar to the feet.

Wago's.....Oooooh for some reason I find a huge desire to collect them and keep them neatly stored in compartments. They have the same allure as stationary. I think I better stop typing. ???

Thanks for the input guys. I've gone for 160mm on the doors. 224mm on the 600mm drawers and 354mm on the 900 drawers.

I'm bother I'm procrastinating again....... So I've just designed a kitchen on DIY-Kitchens. Its a shaker style but with a modern presentation. The decision is to go with bar style handles but you have to select your own length for cabinet doors and drawers. I asked them to say whats the "standard" and they said "its personal choice but keep the handle 100mm from the ends of the drawers"............no don't give me such tough decisions! So far I've selected: 160mm for doors and 224 for drawers: All the units are "hi-line" and there are only two drawer units: a 600mm 4 drawer unit: and a 900mm pan drawer: Should the bar handles perhaps be longer on the pan drawers? Any other views? Help!

Alas I have instances of both. However, I don't want to get into the specifics on this thread.

Ah OK, I must try and keep up :).

I didn't think FENSA covered any install in a "new build" property?

So my window saga continues. In short; (and I am keeping this deliberately vague so please don't ask me to expand in an open forum) They leak. The leaks are damaging my internal fixtures and fittings. The installer has been unable to fix. The installer is being "challenging". I'm well and truly fed up. I feel I've reached the end of the "sensible negotiation" road. So I guess that means things are going to get "formal". This leads to the basis of this topic and in the spirit of the forum feel it might be of benefit to others down the line; What is the best way to obtain a second opinion? Especially considering such an opinion may form part of a formal claim? I'm no slouch, commercially minded and technically reasonably proficient and reckon I'd have a pretty good stab at putting together a claim. But, I'm not an "industry expert" or "experienced" in the supply and fitting of windows so potentially could be argued as not best placed to provide a genuine third party opinion. Any thoughts, insights or experience out there? TIA

Ours was MOT1 followed by sharp sand. We used a powered roller to compact the MOT1 to the required specification. The MBC guys did the sand binding layer with nothing more than a few bits of baton to get it level.

Could be crud but equally the cartridge might have failed. No. 5. here. https://blancotapspares.co.uk/blanco-culina-s-mini-chrome.html

I’ve had one of these for years. Really clever little jig and very accurate. Joint Genie Professional 8mm Dowelling tool for precision jointing of furniture, diy projects, carpentry, garden furniture, kitchen fitting. Ideal for all woodworking needs where strong, precise jointing is required simple and easy to use dowel jig. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0034IA9YW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_wqAeEb9WH80H2

Another vote for leaving it on site. You are likely to cause way more environmental impact by removing it from site. The key factor is finding a sensible (and most likely smaller and local) ground works contractor who is going to be sensible. If you use a big firm you’ll likely get a machine operator who just ticks the boxes and a contracts manager who’s job it is to maximise the price on the job. I’m not ignoring the risks of asbestos but as others have said if it’s sheeting encased within concrete then the risks are incredibly minimal. All H&S starts with a risk assessment and the method statement follows with actions that are practicable.

+1 Hateful things.

Large amount of guess work going on but I would imagine (hope)..... ASHP heating the water cylinder (thermal store?) in the low 40’s for max COP. Cylinder possibly acting as buffer for UFH. Cylinder passing pre-heated water to Sunamp for DHW delivery. (Sunamp being charged by solar where available).

In short; you can’t currently charge a Sunamp via ASHP as the phase change temp is too high to be efficient with the PCM58 units. They have got a lower temperature unit in the wings (PCM43) which is destined to be chargeable via ASHP but it’s not even reached the live testing phase yet. They were saying a month ago that it’s six months away. Based on Sunamps track record that’s much more likely to be 12-18 months away! You could of course use solar and off peak electric to charge a standard Sunamp and make it your source for DHW but I would urge HUGE caution about using the current Sunamp units for UFH without very careful planning and that would start with knowing accurately what your heat demand is.

Forward buying is the easy bit. Finding where you bloody put it is the issue ?

Worth a watch:

I agree. I guess they work on the premise that the “I need it now” sales are better than the volume business but it hardly develops loyalty!

nice! for a moment I thought you had a really posh tumble drier ?

What’s going to sit on the floor section?

Thanks guys. Some good additional thoughts there.

I mate of mine has just WhatsApp'd me a picture of the shower head in his place. Long story short is that he wants to change the head to one that is more "overhead". His message was "can I just add a pipe hose and move it?". He's not much a DIY'er so digging out or joining the pipe is a no go. In short he wants a "quick fix". Looking at the picture its clearly a bigger fitting than the usual 1/2" and he confirmed "its bigger than the shower hose in the other bathroom". Could it be 3/4"? A Google turned up: This: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007JX0218/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=AECG0ONQZ8CL7&psc=1 Followed by this maybe: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B013LBL7RO/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=A3P5W77AR9RCFM&psc=1 Thoughts?

P.S. Hope you're not living in that tent!

You don't need a slate ripper. They're really designed for ripping out a nail 'mid roof' so you can replace a slate(s). Work from the top. The trick is to remove the nails without placing pressure on the tile so your lever point needs to be above the tile not on the tile. Its a bungalow so personally I'd work from a scaffold tower*. You can slide each free slate down the roof to your 'mate' who will batch and stack. You could even make a start and then work from inside the loft. As others have said is surprisingly quick and simple. If the nails are rotten you'll probably find the nail heads will simply snap off. *H&S exempt comment. Do your own risk assessment.

To clarify; I wasn't just boiling a kettle continuously for 24 hours. That would be weird!